Small adjuster. Loosen everything on the perch. Now set the adjuster so the plate just starts to disengage when you pull the actuator past the arrow on the top case mark. It should line up when you just take the slack out by hand. Then hook up the cable and adjust it so the clutch lever has just a touch of play in and out. Like 1/8-1/4"
He does a few light add ons for minimal dollars. Mods the OEM shift shaft before selling them. Coozies. Stickers. Bearing and weld services are dirt cheap if buying a NEW crank and bearings. Stuff like that. His prices are fair and shipping is legit.
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Drop the front tooth back to a 14 tooth.
Get some proper jets in those carbs. No way Shearer set those carbs up like that. You'll be around a 32.5 pilot max.
What fuel?
Driveline/vitos. I've been running them for a few years. What info are you looking for? You NEED a pancake bearing instead of that stock adjuster or it WILL weld the clutch ball and rod.
50 pilot is gonna be huge for Mikuni's. Yes its stock in the TM's, but that's for when they get tossed on a 250cc single cylinder. That's the equivelant of a 500cc banshee. You'll probably be happy with a 32.5 pilot.
Am astounded they can shove 50lbs of boost in to something only 70 cubic inches. The hardware holding it all together certainly has quite the task to live through.
Yes, there is adjustment... Thread the ball joints in or out for camber. The toe is adjusted with tie rods. You thread the ends in or back them out to shorten or lengthen the the tie rods.