trickedcarbine

Got a set of red maier's. Everything but the radiator part in front of the gas tank shroud. The nose piece is maier race style, but it has the detatchable fenders that can be taken on and off. Super nice to throw on when i was in the mud up north one time. The rears are still pretty rigid with out the dumbo ear thing that the stockers tend to get. Pm me for pix or price if interested. I want 'em gone, so you get them cheap.

Just sold him some intake goodies. He was super pleasant to deal with and he even powdered his hand before he pimp slapped my ass! Good guy!

Really not a bad bike. Yeah it may need bearings or bushings, but that is an older bike and it is to be expected and a little time spent browsing reputable sellers on ebay can remedy those issues very cheap. There are a few aftermarket goodies on it already that will save you the money and hassel of buying them yourself. Look at it this way. A MINT stock bike will be in the 2-3k range depending on how fresh it really is. Then you will be spending money on aftermarket goodies on top of that. Or you can buy a decent bike that already has the initial bucks invested knowing you want to mod and rework it anyway. Then spend a piddly hundred bucks to freshen the whole thing with new bearings and seals and spend a weekend cleaning and polishing to come out way ahead with a solid bike for less then a stock one you'll get tired of. Jmo that's all.

I don't wanna sound like a dick, but there is no way you will get $8,000. Just might be able to get someone to trade some camaro goodies though. My biggest concern is the fact that your ported 4mil cub only makes 90hp on 100oct. "WHAT THE F**C CHUCK?" Bike is nice though, just be realistic, it is your love that your lover loves to hate no matter how much you love it. You spent that kinda cash to ride with a grin that goes ear to ear and a hard on that won't go away! Face it you're stuck like the rest of us and you will cry the day you do part ways with it. Think it over man, or get bit and build another.

Bump for good parts

The only way I have seen the honda stuff on the front end of a banshee was when it was a leager pro trax front end. Even the hubs were honda bolt pattern. Weird, because i thought the leager frames still ran banshee spindles. The lonestar outlaw can run banshee parts though. Maybe you can see if there is a good aftermarket hub manufacturer that has a honda hub with a banshee style pattern. Chances are, problably not though, most of the hybrid stuff out there is for honda pattern. In my opinion, sell the honda stuff. Get on ebay and pick up some yfz450 calipers for better braking. There is a newer write up on here somewhere, as well as an older write up. They almost bolt up with just a little bit of grinding to the inner shields. Better be ready for an endo or two before you get used to them.

Mike Has done my last two motors, and they were titties. When Mike Gilmore tells you what he will do to your motor he is serious. He isn't a huge name but if he is involved in your build, you will be happy. I currently run a 4mil with his porting on my trail/ice bike and it was so radically smooth that the only way to out run it on the lake is to get an after market cylinder. Just be patient and he will work his magic. Just remember, with any shop work, things can always change. Just because a guy tells you a week today, doesn't mean that the work load won't change tomorrow and put a delay in things. Both me and my buddie's got our cylinder back with in two weeks though.

Sounds like loboboy's setup. Was it blue with full bore plastics? And who did it say did the injection? Kevin Gidgot and John Stallworth put loboboy's together for alot more then 2500 on the injection.

The shell is the whole head minus domes and o-rings. By the way those 20cc domes are gone, but I still have 21cc standard style domes by pro design. I can text or e-mail pix. Just give me a contact number or e-mail address. Brett

Man, these are gonna be revolutionary! I was just talkin to Matt Shearer about these cylinders. These will be the hot ticket for guys wanting a broad power band with out sacrificing power it self. Way more down low then a cub yet just a fraction is shaved off the top. The release of the several cat is the only reason i didn't go through with buying a twister small block. They would be perfect for my ice bike.

Update on the goods. Pro-Design Cool Head shell. $65.00 or $85.00 w/domes PRM baja bumper. $50.00 Domes, current inventory. 21cc standard, 19cc big bore, 22cc big bore, 19cc noss big bore/stroker. $20.00 a set

Keihin 34mm pj's. Carbs are MINT and clean as they come. New choke plungers this season. $250.00 Boyheson Rad Valves with fresh Carbon Tech carbon fiber reeds. These things are brand new. They help give awesome throttle response down low. $100.00 obo UPP big carb manifolds (34-35mm) These were purchaced when the rad valves were. Barely got any use on them and the rubber is in great shape. They have a decent angle to keep carbs from touching the case. If you need more room, just ask and I'll toss in a set of spacers free. $35.00 Misc. Domes for cool head. Standard bore 20cc, Big bore 22cc. $20.00 ea. Maier red plastic full set minus radiator shroud. They have the detatchable front fender guards. The tank cover is titties, but the front and rear sections need a little tlc. I would be willing to restore them for 50 bucks though. $175.00 as is, $225.00 fully restored and shiny. All prices are negotiable, and I can send pix. My comp is down but i can text or e-mail photos any time you need. Brett.

Brooke, you sneaky bastard. Lookin to roll over the compitition with the good stuff huh? Just try to find some thing 13.5-14 inches that is mucho adjustable. I am contemplating making my works shocks work this year, but those blasty shocks were nice for 25 bucks. By the way we got another cub racing this year. He's got the same strategy as rocky, get the hole shot and block every body from passin. Lmao. Can't people just learn to ride?

Well, I know more power will get me caught up, that is why i would like a bit more carb. Right now my set up lays a solid 77 hp, and his cub doesn't do any thing i can't till 5th gear. It makes maybe 90 hp as was last year. The bike was a 4 mil cub on stock carbs bored to 28mm. Goofy I know but it actually worked to keep that cub fairly responsive, but we all know that even with custom shearers it had alot more to go. My set up was so much more smooth and i know that with just a lil more carb, I will be able to hang on till the small block gets built. Plus in my opinion, the cubs are really not for our racing unless it is those canadiens running the late model & outlaw monster ovals. In the smaller stuff and more aggressive turns i walk all over the cubs with a more dialed setup. Now if either of the 2 cub owners throw the cash down for a set ov pv cheetahs, that is another story and I am in trouble no matter how much better my set up is. Not to mention the way you have to murder clutches to keep the damn kitty cub in the revs and put the power to the tires smooth enough to not blow the tires off. Remember this isn't the dunes or a straight line race, it's the good ol american frozen lakes. Right now the bike is up rockets and a 4mm crank compared to last years motor combo. Now with just a scoche more carb it should be able to walk away. By the time I'll be on the throttle full and hooked, poor kitty cub will be hunting gears and lookin' for power band. Not to mention the current switch to no link, peps rear, and -2 swinger, my new chassis is gonna wreck some dreams.

The pj's were a bitch to learn for sure, and i figured them out long ago. There are definite downfalls to them though, and I am tired of playing with those carbs more then I play with my throttle. I am starting to feel like a marine always field stripping a weapon. Any changes in weather and it is time to tinker. Plus I am looking for a bit more mid-top. I keep hearing that the stryker pwk carbs have a bit of a flat spot in the rev on alot of 4 mil bikes, so I am trying to steer clear of them. I just wanna see if there is something a little more suited for my application. Those 34's are sick outta the turns, but the cub behind me in the turn always turns in to the cub in front of me on the straight and gives no room to run the fast line around the next turn. This year there will be several improvements to help prevent this. Also i will need to have a little more carb for the twister small block that will be going together.

Anybody near or in Oakland county got a set of shearers they would be O.K. with me test fitting the silencers on my set up?

Well, i will put two options out there. The first is do it your self. I will not tell you, you can't do it. Although I will tell you that this is a project many will attempt, but just tap out and put their carbs back on to get riding again. The odds are stacked against you, and no matter how much you research, something will go wrong. However if you are seriously willing to persevere, and know that your bike may even be out of comission for more then a year, maybe two, there might be hope for ya. It is alot of money and headache, but it will be worth it. I rode an RZ with a cub top end and efi, WOW! Don't quit when you start, take lots of pics, and make a write up. Then sticky that bitch here so we can all have efi. Oh i guess that would be a good time to ride it a little bit to.........lmao. Then there is option two, sort of a simple equation that many don't get, but it is always a sure fire way to GIT-R-DONE! It goes something like this. $+kevin gidgot+$+john stalworth+$ & time+more$+DYNO Realistically, $3,500 and time, but check out loboboy's bike. It has to be worth it. The thing has to be so spot on every where.

The issue is I had the 34mm pj's when the porting was done and he worked dremel for those. Now I am building a new motor that will undoubtedly run larger carbs then the pj's. I just would like to find something that will be a little more mid to top on my current set up with out dropping much response, yet work on my new set up. I know the 35mm strykers will work fine, but I am really trying to make my hobby a serious racing endevor, so any edge I can find at this point is what will make my set up perform just a cunt hair better then the other bikes I'll race this season. Mike has tested the pwk, pwk/stryker, and the medium sized mikunis such as the tm, tmz, etc. However he has not really done an application specifically for a tt/ice banshee. He tells me that if I want a little more to get the 35mm strykers, or the tm's. But we both wanna test something a little less known. Not a big deal when a dyno is at our disposal. Both of us have seen bikes run the psi carbs so after the remodeled resturaunt opens up i will pony up on some psi genisis'. I did see a set of those 35.5 FTZ carbs on a post here, so i may snag them up and just see how they compare and perform compared to the pj's currently on it. I just wondered if the FTZ's were still responsive, or if they have to be held open up top while i rag my clutches out. The problem is when i called ftz, the guy couldn't even tell me any thing about the carbs. So i feel like i gotta pull out the mastercard and do the ol' "pay and pray"

Alright, I have been developing a new set up for the past few months for my flat track ice bike and finally got some dinero to throw at some new carbs. I wanted some new psi genisis carbs after hearing from my brother on how much they perform on the sleds out west, but 1200 is to steep for me right now. Then i thought about the down draft fcr conversions that the guys on rz forums are using, but the cost is still to high as well as the expense of all the time spent dialing in a totally alien set up. So that leaves me with some 35mm strykers or the mikuni 35's. Right now the bike is pretty close to the mods in my sig. I heard that the 35mm strykers have a tendency to have a flat spot on alot of bikes, but they are easy to tune, wich is a nightmare on these tempermental 34pj's that I run now. After looking around I can't find much about the FTZ 35.5 GAS Mikunis. So I decide to call them just to find out what sets their carb apart from the rest. Here is the answer the guy on the phone gave me " the mikunis for a banshee.......uh.... my tech says they are about the best carb for it so that is why we sell them." So I just tell him "thanks, I guess.... I will see what I can find" . So this idiot tells me hold on, ten minutes later he comes back and tells me that his tech " just feels it is a good all around carb and would be perfect for my bike. Wait what kind of bike was it for? Oh banshee, and what type of riding? Oh, flat track, yeah....... these should work. There isn't really much about them tech wise". Wait, what the fuck did this idiot just say, and he really expects me to be comfortable spending that much money on a product he can't even tell me about. Nice tech line huh? So please, any one got any info or tech experience with these particular carbs? I.E. Tunibility, how it responds to weather and altitude. Is it finicky like my pj's, or how do they deliver the power compared to a pair of 34mm pj carbs?

First, congrats on taking the step in to a new form of riding. TT/flat track may look easy, but it is more then a big motor and turning the bars. Be patient and expect to spend more time intially wrenching and dialing it in then riding to the podium. Nos 350 knows the hot ticket, so as far as I am concerned his word on set up is gold. The high end stuff will always be better, I just switched to peps as well, but if dollars are tight, go with the blaster or 300ex shocks with the R6 rear. To pick the one you need go by your rear tire. After my testing last season I have determined for the best hook up using an R6 / blaster or 300ex combo, you need to decide wich tire height you want. For tires about 18 inches, go with the 300ex shocks. For the 20 inchers, use the blaster shocks. Reason being, you need to keep the front quite a bit higher to get the rear to hook on that R6 (granted that is what you use). If you need info in mounting an R6 shock, pm me and i can give you part numbers for some bushings that work instead of spending more cash machining bushings then the shock will cost ya. Finally, FUCK TRINITY! There is a thread in the product reviews section, give it a read. Yeah they deal alot of the cp cylinders, but that would be about the only dollar you should spend there. If you are lookin for a total package look at duncan racing's national kit. When has trinity won a pikes peak? Other wise spend some time planning a motor build. Do ALOT of research, and ask lots of questions if the info you need isn't posted. People will problably answer ya with smart ass comments, but we have all started some where. Don't let some of these guys fool ya. Pm me with questions, and i will help ya or steer you in the right direction to some one who will.

Well baker, you ought to run some real high speed ovals. Once bikes that are purpose built walk all over ya it becomes everything you dream of. I felt the same when i first hit the ice and thought some of the set ups that i saw were pointless, then they handed me my ass with half the motor and skill. Now i am converting my bike to be offset like a late model or outlaw sprint, and go figure, it is all the trail guys that have never put a real kold kutter in their tires telling me my bike is not their cup of tea.

I happen to own one of the last sets of the old style rockets being made by the umteenth owner of ROCKET. They are pretty nice and fit ok, but the silencer can that they come with leaves a little to be desired. The look is sweet, but the farmed out can design is well......shitty. The rivits have just desinigrated after maybe 15 hours, and the mounting tab has broke on one, so i had them replace it free. But the rivits are done on that one already. They are quiet wich is nice some times, but really i want a nasty growl outta these things. I rode last winter with a guy with a set of custom shearers and he had the nicest sound i ever heard out of those silencers. My silencers are the o-ring and 4 bolt mount on to the stinger tube. So they should problably be able to be switched out with the shearer cans right? I don't mind having to tweak or drill mpunting tabs at all.

Hmm, well thanks for the input fellas. Makes me wonder if there may be something else goin on. The fuel is stored in plastic, but always in the garage outta the sun.

I buy my Sunoco 110 race fuel in five gallon batches, but sometimes it sits for a while if life gets busy. The problem is, if it gets more then a few weeks old, the bike just runs wierd, sputters, detonates, gets hot, etc. Any one else having a problem with the sunoco fuel not keeping it's octane? I just find it weird that my buddies dad can use the same drum of vp fuel all season and i can only get a few weeks at most.

I'll just be a stand up guy and answer your question, THEN tell you a few other things that can help. CT has never put out any B.S. so jump on them. They are the "typical try to cater to any rider" kind of pipe wich means they will give you a lil all over, yet really wake up the mid. I have seen them on a 250r based banshee out here that flat out hauled on the moto track and killed it on the tt racing. If they are really a good deal take them. That way if you want something else, polish them and sell them for a bit more then you paid. Ultimately to get a bike to work for your riding, some rockets would be nice, or maybe some newer style trinity 4's. As far as other goodies, a good timing plate will give you a helluva bang for your buck! Go on ebay or look in the for sale section here. STAY AWAY FROM CAST JAP CRAP! Set that bad boy at 4 degrees and prepare to be wowed for 50 bucks! You should then look in to a good head and domes. Up the compression a little bit and get a chance to see the condition of whats goin on inside the engine. The porting would be the best money you ever spent, but don't even bother pulling the jugs to do a clean up port. Total waste of time, cuz once you get in to port work the time and money spent is only worth it if you do it right.