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My Banshee (optional)

Found 2 results

  1. So I currently own a ‘06 ltr 450 and soon gonna be sold and I’m going to get a banshee. I’ve been looking around and reading a lot online for the last 2 weeks, as well as getting different ideas and learning new things from some close friends that are or were banshee owners. I live in south Florida and mainly do trail riding with a bit of woods depending the area we go to ride at. And so I have 2 different options for a build and would like to get the forums opinions. As well as any other builds you may recommend, although I’m pretty sure I’m covering the 2 most popular builds currently for my style of riding. Obviously on either of the two builds I will be running: V Force 4 Reeds Cool head Pro mod transmission with modified shift star and shift detention bearing, with possible Wpc treatment option Chariot billet clutch basket Direct drive lock up clutch kit, I know many of you have your pros and cons on these but I rode my friends shee with a 4 mil 66.5mm bore trail port and I loved how it shifted. Has pro mod trans and the shifting was butter smooth and I had no issues with the clutch pull pressure. Some complain on the forums that it’s stiff but his was almost oem feel Driveline performance dune/trail clutch kit Chariot billet impeller/cover and the billet impeller gear Aluminum radiator I will be converting over to dc using the ricks Motorsport stator and trail tech reg/rec Mikuni black fuel pump Lectron 34mm or 36mm carbs, setup for high flow pumps, I know a lot of people have their own opinions on these carbs and many will possibly tell me to go with keihin or mikuni carbs as there’s tons of support for them on here but I like the idea of the lectrons and how they work and I can also see them being a bit more responsive/peppy on the low end as compared to jetted carbs Ims over sized gas tank, many of you don’t like how they look but I personally do. I also ride with some 4 pokes and we ride about 8-10 hours out of the day when we ride, sometimes 2 days back to back and I travel long distances so fuel is a must Now for the engine internals, I plan on having redline racing do my port work and also ordering a lot of my engine related stuff from them. For my kind of riding though would you guys recommend going: Stock bored cylinders, 66.5mm, with a crankworks 4 mil stroker crank Or Crankwork 4 mil stroker crank with a serval cub kit Both builds will be ported by redline racing with a dune/trail port Also what do you guys think about using ceramic bearings on the engine and trans? I’m not talking cheap Chinese bulls**t bearings, real ceramic bearings. What are your guys opinions on these versus the tz/maxload bearings. To give you a brief background about me, I’m not new to the atv world but I am new to the 2 stroke atv world. Also for some 10 years already I’m really big into cars and i build my own cars and have experience around engines, building, rebuilding, servicing, etc. So no need to get into the super tech stuff and try to break it down how it all works. So I’m a firm believer in you get what you pay for and a firm believer in wait a bit extra to save up a few bucks to buy the better part. I also am aware of how 2 strokes work as I’m also big into racing nitro rc cars which is very similar to 2 strokes although the banshee cylinders I see have extra ports and I’m under the impression that they were designed to help increase the volume of the chamber before closing the ports and compressing to bring the total volume of trapped air over the 347cc of what it should really be trapping. Hence the boost ports?!?!? Still a bit unfamiliar in this area. Anyways any opinions and help you guys can give in helping decide would be appreciated. I know the difference in power between the 2 setups would be about 10hp but what about how usable is the power band between one and the other. Obviously the 4 mil serval will make more power but how will it respond down low compared to the 66.5mm 4 mil or even a stock bore 4 mil setup. For suspension, I have already spoken with Laeger to go with some +2+1 a arms with some pep pb1 extra large res, zps shocks, for the front and rear and I’m looking at doing a lonestar racing -1 swingarm with their extended axle setup. Another thing, what about changing the gear ratio with the gears behind the clutch basket, and in the general area, versus changing the gearing using the sprockets, fr/r. I was looking into running the redline racing 2.68 or at least running the stock ratio gearing setup from redline racing. I like the straight cut gears versus helical style. Smoother and less forces working on the gear teeth. Of course with the sacrifice of some whining. Thank you!!!! Angel Or y’all can call me by my nickname Papo Hope to get this thing going soon and start sharing my build with y’all. There’s a shit ton more that I’m doing to it but I don’t want to bomb you all with my entire build idea in a thread that I’m only looking for some opinions on other things lol
  2. Located in NE Texas I have some stock cylinders, long studs for cool head, ported by K&T, 64.75mm bore. Just pulled from my bike. Has K-T engraving on the outside of both cylinders. $350 + shipping (will post pictures later) AC Racing Nerf bars, and front bumper (will not separate) bumper has small ding in the top $100 + shipping unknown manufacturer heimed 2+ 1+ A-arms, chrome, I bought this bike and I dont need them...they look new. $300 + shipping
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