trickedcarbine

Only run them if you need them. On a banshee they help with clearance or moving the carbs back. Not really a performance gain.

As tight as you can get it with out touching. Sometimes the nubs on the flywheel aren't totally the same so you have to file one down a touch to keep the gap the same over both points.

Yeah, that's before the clutch needs to deal with double the output. For a stock beater it's probably fine. But you spend all that money on a motor and try to save a couple dollars on oil? I'll never get it.

Go with the mull or chariot. The Pro Design is overpriced and definitely no better.

There is a lot to be said about video analyzing a race Vehichles of any type. I know drag guys have been watching their runs forever to watch wheel spin(hence the goofy stripes on car tires), pre load affect, or the way the cars track. I used it for flat track tuning and I can only imagine how much video helps you figure out what a car/truck needs. I bet you can't watch an off road race on tv with out not picking what some goon did to a set up.

Good to know, I've been wondering if there was a happy medium. I only liked my stock spring on my stock modded star with a shift pro

Ok I guess, just doesn't make sense. If its apart and you are already going to do all the overkill stuff, why not cut the tranny? Especially if you are putting a halfway potent motor together you are just gonna assemble it and ride it wishing you did the trans when it was apart.What motor combo are you doing, and why are your reasons for not wanting to cut the trans? Not to mention the gear set you don't need costs more then the cut tranny you probably do need or will at least definitely benefit from.

Or you could just use some feeler gauges to set the slide height using the carb top adjusters......... But if you buy the kit it should all be there. List: - Dialectric grease on all electrical connections - compression test - build leak down tester and perform leak down - nut and bolt everything! - grease anything that moves (pull out bolts to grease items with no zerks) - clean carbs properly - fresh plugs - fluids You can use motor oil, really you can poor whatever the hell you want in your machine, but it's an investment and why skimp just to save a buck. Big companies spend millions every year to research petroleum lubrication and they developed motor oil and transmission oils to do different tasks. Any one who tells you to run motor oil to save money is nuts.

Bitchin'! Glad it worked.

Look in the technical forum there is a write up at the top

Or..... Br8EIX

There are 100+ HP K&T stock cyl bikes out there. Just keep in touch with Kim and research, beg, borrow, or steal whatever tricks or knowledge you can.

Really, maybe it is my shift pro then. I have beat the hell out of it both ways and I think it works best FOR ME with the lighter spring. With the stock spring I would have to really yank it to get it to switch gears.

High speed drill, black emery cake, brown tripoli, white tripoli, red rouge or green compound. Just make sure to use different wheels with each. I'm over the elbow grease. Raw steel!

Bwahahahaha

I need to order some ceramic balls for my lock up.

You would be nuts to swap out for a 2nd gear set and not cut the tranny. That's a lot of tear down and messing with the tranny to swap a part you really don't need for your motor and probably could of spent that money toward a cut tranny that will be a performance increase you would definitely notice. Maybe if you were 400lbs and launching it on mega paddles you could break 2nd, but really it's not worth your while. With the average 4 mil, I bet you would snap something in the crank before you mess up the tranny gears.

Shift pro has a bearing. It was the first to have one. We did the same conversion that mull does on my buddy's bike and it's nice. I found that their star definitely is a little nicer then a modded stocker.However with the stock shift star modded it tends to work better with a stiffer stock spring, the mull star works way better with the softer shift pro spring. After hearing so many guys say stock springs work better with modded stars, I swapped my shift pro spring out for the stocker with my mull star. I went to the drag races just to get some holes or practice on my TT motor. Man, I was getting spanked by all kinds of shit missing shifts with the stock spring on the Mull star. Even neutral was a bitch to find I yanked the clutch cover and swapped the shift pro spring back on to it and god damn, my tranny was butter again. So stock modded star, use the stock spring Mull star, definitely a lighter spring.

Also there was the switch on spocket hubs from 4 post to 6 post.

So, it really burned when you went? X2 on the 27.5 and 290's also give the needle one clip richer

Or go to a showroom overseas.

Every bike needs a pancake beading or ceramic ball.....

This thread has Idiot AIDS! Seabass, you mentioned that the conduct of those in charge made no difference in your day? So why did you take the time to make this retarted post? Obviously It did.....

http://www.google.com/search?q=miss+mint+400&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en&client=safariReally? Top link.

10-4 on getting out west man. What exactley is involved in your prep procedure? Are you doing the whole car/truck or just the suspension?