trickedcarbine

I guess...... I can go through my PJ's about as fast as the guys on dirt bikes with one carb. Maybe it's all that practice.

Little ultra grey or three bond.

Yes it is possible. Steer clear of the Billit ones from chariot and trinity. Pros: easier tuning Cons: less performance in most cases

Just mme sure you discuss your riding style with whom ever cuts the tranny.

I would say a lightened flywheel is less effective in moto X or flat track. The heavier mass of the stocker pulls better out of the turns.

Something like that.... We do have a few tracks that have mixed courses. And we're Setting up to do road courses in the warm weather at places like Grattan or Waterford Raceway. Super Moto anybody..... And BTW, I use the same bike for trail riding as well.

Can you elaborate a bit? I'm considering a no link conversion on my TT bike just for that reason but I wanna make sure it's the right move.

Man, those new sleds sure are gettin sweet!

I like the bigger set. It could just be my Un educated guess though. I would assume it is a bit beefier and more adapted to heavy abuse. It does look like they are a little older though. Normally I'd say call Matt, but he's swamped. Maybe try elka....

Yeah, no doubt.

Yeah it made it less complicated for you to tune now that there is just one carb. But there is still a TON of performance to be had in other 2/1 set ups. Both the trinity and chariot units are just garbage in my opinion. I like chariot but that piece isn't meant to perform, just make life easy for the newer tuners on trail type bikes. Just because it needed less tinkering doesn't mean it flows very well. Those choked out Billit intakes are why so many folks say they won't work.

I would definitely start out with the 27.5 maybe, just maybe a set of 30's. With the results I've been seeing on them you will probably be ok on the 27.5 since you're not ported. However you will more then likely have the airscrew almost all the way in.

Yeah, get it cut. Stock style cut though.

No biggie, we ride a lot of practice weekends and you would get comfortable real fast. Once you get a real set of tires on the ice and realize you have more traction then most tires do on dirt it gets your confidence going.

For flat track I would suggest a good stock style cut. Not just removing every other dog either. That does help, but a good stock cut truly has more to it then just dog removal. I would steer clear of the over ride stuff because of the way we set up for the turn. It would destroy forks. Although I have been toying with the idea of a 1-3 over ride with manual 4-6. Get ahold of Camatv, Sheerider1026, or Tyson racing for a stock cut.

Holy shit! That one actually looks decent. The plastics aren't all raped and the frame seems like it was thought out. Well Gomer, that might be the ticket! Normally im not to in to the street bike conversions, but that might be up your alley.

Just a stock cut. No need for an over ride unless you are a drag racer or hill shooter.

Ok, probably not a matched set then. Because that puts you at about 3.27-28 range and there is no way they would mesh. To be honest I've never heard of that ratio for these bikes, RZ's, or RD's.

Umm, how do the reeds look?

I swear I've seen the RZ guys with them at track days......

Let's just remember there are some fellas who think its ok to run stockers on stroked cubs.... I guess even then it's not that necassary.

Try .028 for stockish motors. They get tighter for different applications though

Don't bother with the 2-1 on a dune port. If you are spending so much Money with fast, might as well let him do the porting to. Or get your stuff from Kevin if he's doing your cylinders. Usually makes less headache to get it all from one fella. Might even get you a better deal. Also, your list looks good, but make sure to get all those little OEM Clips, fasteners, locking washers, clutch pieces, and misc parts known to fail. You Won't need straight cuts on that build either. Some tranny work would be nice though.

Uhh, as said in my post FAST! You can just go through your motor on tear down and make a list of anything questionable. Then go on his site and make a list ahead of time with the names and part numbers out of his OEM section. Call him and spend dinero, wait for a box, open up said box, look in to said box like kid in Candy Land, begin rifling through said box, install great parts for a great deal to get great performance!

If it were me, I would just leave it stock length, but then again I'm the idiot running 80 HP on a -2 swinger. Btw my DM will be in the same chassis. If you must go longer, just remember you said you wanted it to be trailable. The longer you get the harder it is to turn. But you said you wanna climb with it so I guess the +4 is a happy medium. Just make sure to pony up for a round house swinger though.