trickedcarbine

K&S, Winderosa, OEM. That's it.

Gonna get interesting

^ That! Who are we no longer buying from?

< would fuck yo couch... For real, I will fuck your couch. Maybe coat it in baby batter if you talk dirty to me crouched down behind it so the couch sounds like a filthy bitch.

John is definitely not 15. In fact he's so old that he gets cranky when he forgets to take his geritol. Maybe you caught him on a day he had to substitute with centrum. Haha. (Sorry john) you know I'm just busting your balls.

Those Billit clamps that join the head pipe and stinger are available at cascade. Pretty sure they make them for different pipe combos. But they cost a bit.

Ha! Blow jobs always get attention. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

Oh geeze..... I just read the whole thread.

With the power you are hoping to achieve, if you are actually getting it a modded tranny would definitely be worth doing. Especially with you already having the bike tore down. At least do a modded shift star, bearing on detent arm, shift shaft, drum bearing, shift spring, and maybe get a machinist buddy to remove every other dog on the gear clusters that have 6.

The nicks on there look so friggin minimal I doubt they would even make an issue due to their location as well. It only takes a few mins to drop a head on and another few mins to make sure it's sealed. If it doesn't seal then deal with it. But if it ain't broke don't fix it. By no means am I saying to fully assemble it and assume it's fine, then fill it up with fluids and see what happens though. Just check it on the bench and see what happens.

I would assemble it and see if it seals up. If not, it's time for some epoxy/tig and a lapping

^ dude..... You can stfu as well.

You said new aftermarket carbs. What are we talking? The white plastic in a PJ from keihin?

Save your cash for the serval if you're serious. There are a lot of details to tend to.

20cc's is pushing it on stock motors.

Teuche'! That is titties!

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=166658#entry1476966

I think cascade makes a set of stingers for t5's

Crank case is vented, so if your leak down passed I'd say it's just from rich fuel/oil

Totally noticeable. I only realized how noticeable after swapping to a stator with OEM plate after some electrical issues. But I noticed a bit less motivation on the bottom.

Just use the o-rings. No sealer. Go slow when dropping the head. If it won't go down, there is an issue. Also, when dropping the head on some times the o-rings on the bottom may drop down. A dab of grease ran over the o ring will keep it stuck in the groove. Once you get the bottom shell about 1/4 inch from seating, shine a light between the head and cyls to make sure the rings didn't drop. Then once the bottom section is on, put the little o rings in on each stud and install the thin upper top piece.

My man! Thanks for the heads up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

Don't be a pussy and pull it off. Then wire wheel it. Or wire wheel it on the bike with everything else around it.

You could always just get the stock crank gone through and do a total freshen up of the whole motor. Do bolt ons and shift mods and get the feel for wrenching on your bike. But if you can wait it out or happen to be a baller, a good 2K in to a 4 mil set up can get ya a pretty stout motor. I think you would ultimately be happier with the 4 mil though.

^ that. And gear it right.