trickedcarbine

They got a pretty sweet wanted section that might get ya the right traffic.

That would be nullified with a drag harness right? I went through the stock harness twice hoping to find some issue and all was cool. I now have a bare bones harness from compulsive concepts

That is the list of stuff I've tried, the paragraphs in the list are just quotes from very old threads.

Well, I haven't been able to get this thing sorted out after a couple of angry thrash sessions I am ready to ask for help. The bike is getting supper erratic spark and I have had no luck at all getting it to even try to fire. Motor is fresh rebuild. Sealed up nice and has great compression. Here is a list of stuff that I have done. I'm hoping some one has one last suggestion I don't know about. I have also bought a new harness from Compulsive concepts and even tried swapping all components from another running bike. I'm out of ideas. Trouble shooting list: Flywheel and key (no rattles good magnetically) Stator (ohmed and tried 4 known good stators) Pick up and pick up gap (even filed nubs even) Wiring harness Un wrapped and gone through Plugs and connectors cleaned and greased New spark plugs Clipped plug wire ends where boots thread in New plug boots Ohmed and tried several known coils Coil surface grounded and cleaned w/ dielectric Harness ground cleaned up Tors/park brake/key/tps/ all deleted Disconnected the tether switch Test kill switchTrouble shooting Swapped out 3 good running CDI's At the CDI harness side connector, check for continuity between the red/black wire and the black wire. You should have continuity with the key on. (or bypassed) If no continuity, there's your problem. If that checks, check between the black/white wire and the black wire. That's your kill switch. It should be open circuit for it to run. You got it. We noted and have posted many times, the typo that Clymer did in their manuals. Primary is from blade connector to blade connector and secondary is from plug wire to plug wire. Remember to remove the plug caps and test separately. They are known for failures . Remember also to unclip the wires completely from the coil and test "ONLY" the coil when you get a bad reading. Wires shit out commonly, the coil itself rarely fails. your ignition has 4 wires. cut the ignition off. the black with white stripe and red with brown stripe need to be soldered . then solder the red and brown wires so you then have 2 wires. wrap them up in electrical tape (NOT TOUCHING) then your ignition will be eliminated. the coil grounds where it mounts, and there is one on the back of the timing plate- it's the wire clamp. that is the whole engine ground. there is also one by the voltage regulator.

Found this still steaming last weekend riding snowmobiles in the U.P. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

What! No!

Mostly it's only his monster Big Block cylinder that has the PV's. I think his Sniper might get it as well. He may still have old style cyls around though.

JSR/Nmotion

Fucking whores !

I'm about to have JD cut me some rotors with a bit more diameter so that the entire pad is used. Should make even more stopping power. Once I have the diameter I'll post it here.

^ dig this guys style.

What's with the comment about my mom's white vinyl lounge? Everybody knows that it's a BLACK LATEX DUNGEON. Has any one seen my ping pong paddle?

Wow! Dat sheeit be beatin' yo!

Meh, surprised they snuck the triples in there with out welding. That's one hell of a tricky thing to do.

Jerry, pix sent in PM. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

You have a PM. I am willing to tear the head off tonight to back my statement. No reason for me to lie. I run several of your products and hope to continue to do so.

Head is on the motor, it appears that the chunk of aluminum had a hole bored in it and a plug was made and pressed to fit or something. There is definitely a plug of some sort. I didn't notice it until the guy cutting the head saw it and pointed it out. To boot a few other issues needed to be sorted out but jerry made it right

^that

Whoa! Where is that at?

Let's Go Red Wings!...

Possible, but I hate to ruin it for the chariot folks, but jerry at chariot is definitely using scrap chunks for his stuff. Not a big deal if the piece is sound and large enough to cut the whole head from. However I bought the super duty head from chariot and there was a plug in the material right where the dome had to be cut. It sealed up fine for me, but I can't imagine a 3/4" round plug of aluminum being a good thing right in the dome of a nitrous motor. I'm game to try something new and driveline has been great to me so far so I would gladly try their head if it had some sort of garuntee

John Stallworth has been experimenting with SOME of the the 450 efi components on banshees for a few years. No it's not direct, but he has made it work with the 450 stuff re mapped. It was his attempt at using OEM stuff to try and make an affordable kit. You said you got an A. So that means you're cruising around on EFI? If not what's the progress? ( serious question not an asshole one)

These have been out for a while and I can't believe they aren't on more stuff. They were on an old set of 34's I had and they are going on my new 35mm PWK's

Slo was a carachter. I still feel like he's around here, just more quiet these days with a different name.

Well if you have experienced a shaw being to stiff, I bet a solid strut would not be preferred as it will be even stiffer. Might be time to open your shaw up and do a bit of work.