trickedcarbine

Ttt

Buy them new? Was that your set at redline that was whored out on the dyno?

DNR doesn't care about width. The problem is when Michigan lists a trail as a 50" trail, it is typically only cut cleaned up one time to 50", then neglected and overgrown. If you are on a banshee with +3 arms, you aren't getting through

Right on. I'm from michigan as well. Your wallet is fucked, just spend and try not to think about it. +3 is typically long travel arms. Not many companies producing + 3 standard travel arms any more. If you're in the UP Atv trails, they are 50" right? Or are they widening them up for the UTV guys now? Otherwise stick with +2.

Yep, definitely helps to just do things by the book one time to get acquainted.

In all honesty, it would be pretty cool to see a 4mm serval with a hand fabbed 2-1 intake, 41mm PWK, and SRP pipes. But stockers could suffice. Dunno, the outlaws and what not are cool, but there have been quite a few of them getting bitchin higher HP 4mil set ups lately. Why spend the whole nut and not go full balls. The beauty of the bigger serval with torquey pipes is the ability to just lug the thing. Meaning you come out of the short turn and that big table top you clear most of but still flat land or that big double, they're now that jump you are not only clearing, but wishing they were 10 foot longer. Two schools of thought on riding big motors: Old school, To high of HP motors are hard to ride because two strokes with that much power typically become less predictable and are on/off or peaky. The common thought is that you end up just fighting the bike the whole time and you get wore out quicker. So build a lower hp ,predictable TAME & LAME bike orrrr..... New school, Things have changed, if you really plan the whole set up with a decent builder and parts, it's possible to have gobs of torque and ride the bike less aggressively yet still have the power right there to huck you over the jumps out of the turns. Build it so big it makes more torque then any 4 stroke way early on and then not have rev the piss out of it. Less fatigue, less wear if you know how to take advantage of that.

Clymer should be the first purchase for new banshee owners.

Yes! Hmm, no wonder it runs cooler, it's a CC less in the combustion chamber and the plug isn't in a location to make sure all the fuel gets lit.

X 10 on the boost bottle needing to go to the trash. Get a stock cross over tube. Here is a bracket Arlen at LED produces. I've seen many fellas make something similar. Maybe give it a try. http://ink361.com/app/users/ig-1272118076/ledperformance/photos/ig-756581775541540649_1272118076

He's a bit overkill, but definitely sparing no expense on this one.

Guy said the square pad rests against the little nubs on a factory head and the plugs hold it down. That is still complete nonsense and there is no way it would clear the nuts. I mentioned it and he basically told me to buy it and "feel the performance, or piss off" I bet it's for some random ol' twin in a bike of some sort though.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/181600337754?nav=SEARCH What era is this gimmicky ass thing from?

^curious about that as well.

Bitchin' stuff right here fellas. Quality OEM type connectors, Bullet kill switch connection, and the fitment is A1.

You just would of bitched and wined while you flailed your roast beef twat lips all over any way. Probably better you don't buy from anyone one here. Even better, NOBODY SELL TO DOOFUS ^ you will be dubbed a scammer if he doesn't get his shit over night.

So 400 for cases and stocker covers...?

Yeah, you need at least 27.5 pilots, OEM needles maybe second clip from bottom, and 280-290 main. Possibly 300 main. I'd definitely try it if the plugs look questionable. Do not trust any one without doing the research first and then hearing them confirm what needs to be done.

Did they use rebuild kits? Typically they come with shindy needles and they are not right. Also it would be a 25 pilot, wrong if you have mods. Typically most people thinking they need a "rebuild" just need a thorough cleaning, and a float adjustment. What is done to the bike, what's each jet inside, who did the work?

http://forums.everything2stroke.com/threads/52271-Custom-LT-Banshee-Chassis-Frame-Fabricator-Help! He was on here again a couple weeks ago getting in to it in a thread and mentioned a few things about the happenings as well. Some nonsense, but I bet it'll be pretty cool in all honesty.

^ fuck yes. He is doing full look alike frames for guys that need a "stock" chassis. The price is right and I bet if someone was serious he would definitely build one or modify a stocker. Just doesn't make sense how so many guys chop and modify for drag, but not many are willing to put their name on anything that'll be airborne. From the conversations I've had with other chassis builders, there is quite a bit of respect for liability so many guys pass on that kind of work.

He's on other forums.

Little barbs on the intake side snout? Little rubber nipple covers will work just fine on there.

Meh, seller should ship their own shit or inform someone when a delay is happening. Be responsible. Buyer, chill the fuck out. Don't be a fucking faggot because you had to wait a week around the holiday.

Sleeper, you running an actual shop yet? Sounds like you're getting to the point where you could very well be doing this full time if you wanted.

Wow man, total testament to tried and true tuning. You gained several tenths on the 60', 3 tenths off the ET, and about 10mph. Good stuff man!