trickedcarbine

All over ebay here. Pretty similar to the RZ stuff.

Look in to what guys are doing to RC hobby car bodies. Lots of them start off clear and wind up pretty bitchin' with some simple techniques.

Any progress?

CPI,Rockets,Snipers, old GRR's, Vito's Fat Bastards, then maybe an old set of shearers from when he still cared.

Start watching the plugs. Don't wait for it to spit one out before doing so. Check the strap for timing indication. I still think that's borderline at best.

I always tell people it costs double if they wanna hang out and help.

I think you need just a touch more fuel.

The grey R13 from Owens Corning is decent. Pretty sure that's what's in stock shearers. My last one I just did was the fire retardant Rockwool. Sounds awesome.

^ Corey has all that. Even the little jelly bullet connectors.

All preference. Run as little restriction as you can get away with comfortably.

Pretty legit comment.

Water pump is an easy one to do. Pull the coolant hose off the clutch cover to drain it. Pull kick starter, then the clutch cover. Lay it on something soft so you don't frigg up the sealing surface while working on it. Pull the pump cover off. Then remove the plate and clean it up. From the back pop the little clip off the shaft. This will allow the plastic gear, washer, and little pin come free. Now push the shaft out. Pop the seal out and use a punch on the outer bearing race to shove the bearing out. Reverse order for install.

Get the carbs cleaned really really really really goooood. Then get the correct jets in it and go from there.

Whoever told you you need more bore for the Vito's Fat Bastards is a friggin moron and you should consider a thinning of your friends/acquaintances. A good ported stock cyl 4mil motor with a little compression and timing should motivate very well with those pipes. Maybe try some 35's What exactly is the full set up as of now? Gearing 14-38/39, or 15/40ish might make you happy Radiator spitting right away..... This could be the culprit of your issues. You may be eating coolant and pressurizing the system.

Das nyceee!

Cheap plate, over tightened bolts, or a combo of both. The later of the two is quite easily done on a cheap plate. I've seen a Ricky Stator plate strip using OEM torque specs...

Local guy? Can you google him and find good reviews? Can you find other people with similar work he has done? "I will port and bore your cylinders, (<why is he boring it?)wiesco pistons, pro design cool head, v force reeds, 4mm stroker crankshaft, ignition timing plate, modify stock carbs, (< what carb mods)torr kit removal, pro design intake plate and k /n air filter in stock box, custom exhaust (<which exhaust), Yamaha Performance clutch(<stupid)all new seals and gaskets, Total Price parts, labor tax,machine work $3000. take $500 off if you don't want the 4mm stroker crank let me know" As you said you wanna occasionally track ride I'd say for your level of tuning and wrenching experience is, definitely say re work the stock cylinders or if you get more coin, do a serval.

Check cables and slides

Photo of "centrifugal clutch"

It's possible the crank on this thing is twisted out of phase. If it's not been welded, that compression ain't to friendly.

Both plugs read even? That looks lean.

You are trying he right things and the jetting is close with a 27.5 pilot and 310 main. I think you need to look for an air leak. Use propane for a quick way to find some air leaks. Start the bike and get it doing the funky high idle. Use a plumbers torch with the nozzle turned on (not lit), wave it over the intakes and base gasket areas. Since you did reeds it's totally possible the new stuff just is t sealed up quite right.

^ little bit of that.

I'd imagine it fares just as well as the plastic one it replaces.

Check the float height. Should fix the overflow.