trickedcarbine

Don't waste your money unless you're the type of fella to pull the covers after each ride to wash them and the bike.

There was a chassis component company that does a lot with the honda 450's that produced a video of them designing and testing their new linkage for TT stuff. Pretty cool to see and they did side by side testing with a factory bike to show the drastic difference. Edit: It was Andy Maul at Maul Tech ATV. RIP Andy.

Steer clear of the dirt bike kit. They are for a single cylinder motor 100cc's smaller and a different carb then you were wanting to run all together.

No, but the EEK is known to work.

Trouble shooting list -Flywheel (no rattles good magnetically) -Flywheel key ( not sheared off or not advanced key with extra timing on plate) -Stator (ohmed and tried another good working stator of known working bike?) -Pick up and pick up gap (don't be afraid to file nubs) -Wiring harness Un wrapped and gone through -Connectors cleaned and greased -New spark plugs -Clipped plug wire ends where boots thread in -New plug boots if old ones don't ohm out. -Ohmed and tried known coil -Coil surface grounded and cleaned w/ dielectric -Harness ground cleaned up -Tors/park brake/key/tps/ all deleted properly -Disconnected the tether switch -Test kill switch -Swap coil -Swap CDI -Swap stator Random stuff from electrical FAQ: At the CDI harness side connector, check for continuity between the red/black wire and the black wire. You should have continuity with the key on. (or bypassed) If no continuity, there's your problem. If that checks, check between the black/white wire and the black wire. That's your kill switch. It should be open circuit for it to run. You got it. We noted and have posted many times, the typo that Clymer did in their manuals. Primary is from blade connector to blade connector and secondary is from plug wire to plug wire. Remember to remove the plug caps and test separately. They are known for failures . Remember also to unclip the wires completely from the coil and test "ONLY" the coil when you get a bad reading. Wires shit out commonly, the coil itself rarely fails. your ignition has 4 wires. cut the ignition off. the black with white stripe and red with brown stripe need to be soldered . then solder the red and brown wires so you then have 2 wires. wrap them up in electrical tape (NOT TOUCHING) then your ignition will be eliminated. the coil grounds where it mounts, and there is one on the back of the timing plate- it's the wire clamp. that is the whole engine ground. there is also one by the voltage regulator.

It's that White and Blue one TT Bansheerida posts.

The piston it self is heated by the burn and then quenched by fresh incoming ail/fuel mix from above and below while the piston cycles, so it never gets to the temp that the actual burned gasses reach. So the pyrometer on the SGT sensor reads the explosion temp and not the piston temp. Could probably be worded better, but that's the gist of it.

I must say that is one good thing about sxs's. Now that they're everywhere, what used to barely be 50" trails, are now quite open. It really let's you haul ass in trails that only 5 years ago my bike would barely fit without bouncing off of a tree every now and then.

Is Brandon Dale Riggs aware that it's hard to get a strip E.T. from a bike that spends it's life in the trails?

Because a few weeks of patience and a few more dollars can provide a more enjoyable result.

Depends where the bung is situated in the exhaust. Could be any where between 1,000-1,300.

Blendzall is a castor. Give their stuff a look.

927 will definitely not be a good choice for cold weather. It gel's up in carb jets/orfices & seperates from fuel at freezing temps. For a long while I was in to Amsoil, but after speaking with a lot of guys in to Two Stoke snowmobiles, I have switched to Blendzall with awesome results!

^

For your idiot comment, you get an asshole response. It's spelled "KNOW it all"

Are you sure...?

These are what I was talking about. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/166213-jds-customs-heel-guards/

I think JDS made something for Loco with a heel guard to go on his hill bike. Maybe hit them up for details.

^ Little more to it then that but that is fairly correct. However some guys do a few things that could mean the gear set is strictly over ride. OP, Redline or CamATV can get you a complete Pro mod style trans for around $300 to your door. If your 1-4 over ride with manual 5/6th is decent you could easily sell it as a package and recoup that money pretty quick. Either way you will need to split the cases.

Air strykers are a bit finicky. The regular PWK is far easier. If you are dead set on a Cheetah, Harry, the former owner of Trinity has been bought out by Dasa and has went out on his own under the name "McDermott Racing". He kept the rights to the Cheetah Set up and would be the fella to call about parts. However, I strongly urge you to buy the Cylinder Raw and Untouched and have any machine work/porting done by someone else. And let Millenium do the Nikasil. As far as the Zeel-tronic, the real benefit to them on RZ bikes is so you can control the Servos on the Powervalves. If it's ignition curves and tach output you think you need, look in to the Dyna. I've set up a few Zeel units and on an RZ you are correct they make sense. But with a mechanical pressure operated Power Valve on a Cheetah cylinder, you can avoid lots of extra time, money, and headache.

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What. The. Fuck.........

No point in Zeeltronic ignition if you aren't running factory RZ cylinders. Also, steer clear of the Air Strykers. Little more finicky then the PJ's IMO.

Those are factory RZ pipes weaseled in there.

PWK is far superior then the stock Mikuni VM's IMO. If you have the dough to spend, grab the 28mm PWK's. If you're on a budget, you could bore the stockers to 28mm, but they'll never get the response of a comparative sized PWK. Difference is not just in carb bore size, but round slide vs. flat slide. Flat slide typically feels crisper.