trickedcarbine

PEPS makes bitchin stuff. The ZPS is not gonna be a good Moto shock though. The ZPS is geared more toward TT, Flat track, & Ice racing. They do have other shocks that could work well for MX though.

+3 long travel

VHT or PJ1.

No news is good news. However, it seems that BPR is more of just parts and sales. So when it comes to setting it all up and getting it dialed in, you would probably be much happier with someone who not only sells the parts, but is also a reputable engine builder.

I've got a set of Roll Design LT A Arms, and a set of Fireball LT A Arms built out of light weight chromoly for TT. They both have their Pro's and Cons. I Still think I like the Roll stuff better for a trail or MX set up though. I was gonna use them on my new tt/ice set up, but they are a bit heavy. I'll keep them for a trail bike I'm hoping to be throwing together quite soon.

That's how I hit him up.

66hp 7 mil?

14" shocks up front (stock blaster)and a lowering link out back is gonna be the best bang for your buck. You could even find nice used Works shocks for a Blaster. The R1 rear shock is just so miserably stiff with out a really long swing arm or a custom rebuild. The rear stocker rebuilt or dialed in on a link does just peachy! If you want it slammed, 300EX shocks work or you can find anything to suit your needs at 13". Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Negative. No response.

Wow, that thing is Friggin' cool! Couple things you should look in to if you are gonna be winding that thing out longer then Dyno runs though. Check out the Pingel Dual outlet petcock and ditch that single nipple ASAP. And I would advise you look in to Billit bowls for the carbs. Plus there are a few nice ones with a baffle section that stabilizes the fuel around the Main jet. Ultra handy for running the twisty stuff wide open. Oh, when adjusting Floats. The easiest way is get it to sit flat and eye level while it is standing like it would in the bike. (Like in your string) watch the Needle and Seat action. Bend the tab so that it pushes that little spring loaded needle closes before the floats smash the carb body. Look at the float tube in the bowl, make sure it's not bent.

There was the pipe dream concept of using Powervalve Cheetah cylinders with a 4mm crank for 485cc's. Never really got off the ground floor though. Hit up Rodger at Wicked Motorsports. He is actually building Banshee/RZ power plants daily for road bikes, and he makes some pretty cool machines.

That's where so much of the trash talk came from. I think it was Mailman that posted lack luster OOF graphs and folks weren't impressed at all. But the IF pipes seemed to be a whole different ball game.

I will hit him up and try and get a number

Total tear down. Doing the top end won't show you if the bottom end is ok.

Not really an apples to apples comparison. Snipers are a stamped assembly that works well on a range of motors in the 80-100+ hp motors. The LED's are custom tailored to a specific set up and built by hand. That said. There are curves of LED's on 10 cubs out there as well as Snipers. Probably wouldn't be to much trouble to over lay them on a simple graph/chart.

Definitely need more then an intake window shot. Photos of ports in the sleeve, pics of bottom of cylinder where transfers are.

C'mon, you can't break people's dreams in half. You gotta remember that when some one knows nothing, they actually know everything.

^ oh really..... You guys broke the 3 second barrier? Hmmm.

Perfect.

Wait... She is smokin'! That gun is bitchin', and I want that table to rub my junk where her feet were. But what in the fuck is going on with the cow statue?

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What springs?

Look in the Dyno section. There is a few different pipe comparisons for the 421 servals.

Start with 2 balls in each small slot. If it's to much weight, pull one from the middle slot in each group between the long slots.

The SLP's have proven to be able to produce 80+hp. They just do it early. If you are serious about wanting to make the motor come alive sooner, you can do it with a pipe change and manage to do it with out actually losing power like you would going with the typical inframes like PC's, FMF, Toomey's, etc. You won't be able to really wind it out like the shearers do, but it will freight train off the bottom.