trickedcarbine

Wanna sell it

That's what I meant by grind the outer gusset and bungs off so you can mount it directly to the frame tube. Might need to put some sort of collar on the tube though, so that the nerfs sit out where they should.

Sorry, I gave the wrong info. It was in an Ice Racing thread. Here is how to ditch the plate. I'd Imagine you could clean it up even more by grinding that section with the bungs off and mount it straight to the engine cradle tube. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A couple seasons ago I tried the whole low gearing to get it to freight train out of the turn and be wound out early on the straight, similar to the drag guys who let the motor hang it's lungs out well before the traps. It runs good that way on the Short tracks if you can get the thing hooked up, but depending on motor set up, I just don't like the way it feels on the bigger tracks. It's kinda hard on a motor. Just get it so the bike is just barely done accelerating before you reel it in for the turn and you should be good.

I set the bike so that it is still just barely in the over rev at the end of the straight away of a 1/2 mile oval in 6th gear. 15/39-38 is pretty great for a 80ish HP build on 20" rear tires. Been trying some stuff with 18" tires and the 16/39 is pretty nice. It seems to just run out of gear right before I chop the throttle to pitch it in to the turn. How much motor and what size tires? Each variable makes a difference.

Find the thread Evan(The358Shee) did on his EFI Banshee. He did a decent Pro Peg conversion on his frame.

You may end up needing to increase stinger diameter on those.

Mixed up pussies like a pack of Fun Dips, huh? Always a good idea till you realize mixing flavors can leave a fella with a bad taste. I feel ya though, been with mine for 6 years and she has fallen off on the sandwich game and the pussy is getting boring, so I get the temptation.

Is that one of those T&T front bumpers that sorta look like a Duncan? If so, are you diggin' it?

Because certain dome shapes/profiles can perform better then others. Plus the Cool Head allows you to switch domes pretty easily, versus having a new head cut each time you wanna change it.

What added compression?

Not shabby. Lots of potential there. The bonus is how linear the power is.

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/184820-southside-motorsports-chassis-fab/#entry1771476

^YES

JD's sub frames are made by Southside Motorsports

Lots of tree shots? With those pipes, keep the stockers. If you do get it ported and eventually get one of the better In Frames you could benefit some carbs.

That's a pretty new product. They gave me a small one for free when I bought some VP113 at a VP dealer as a spring promotion. Just enough to mix in the 5 gallon jug. Seemed to run pretty well. Burned clean on the plugs.

All mods aside, what is the intended kind of motor set up you want? Stock carbs can make some decent power. If you want a trail machine with lots of early on throttle snap, the stockers would be just fine. They will make up to 80hp.

Life proof case with the clip zip tied over your clamp. Mine was on there a few seasons. Used it for lap times and top speed. Never could find an app that works well enough with the GPS to read fluctuating rate of speed accurately.

Cheetah, T-Rex, and old LA sleeve Mono.

Proprietary Protrax front end

Jfc.

I'm about $1,300ish. No bolts for factory engine mounts or linkage bolts as the frame is gonna be a bit different. No banjo's either. I have a few other things I need from them though. Bike won't be some light weight drag bike, but it should have enough effort throughout the whole bike to get weight down and make a difference. I've even been serious about getting my own weight down as well. I'd like to quit working so much next season and get back to chasing points. I haven't done it in a few seasons and wanna get serious again.

Yahtzee^

Hehe