trickedcarbine

Plastic cover eh...... Teuchè. Jerry, it might be time to buy a 3D printer.

Driveline!

^ Bitchin' Bill.

You read with your ears? Smh....

Get a nice impact driver. Not a big impact gun, just one like the carpenters use. You can get impact rated quater hex to 1/4, 3/8, &. 1/2" socket adaptors. It makes tear downs a breeze. It makes those stubborn phillips come right out like butter. If you got a set of Allen heads that work on a socket, that's another bonus. Most everything else was covered except the 32mm socket for pulling the clutch apart. With an impact, you won't need some janky handle tool to hold it all.

A real man would just use the Sledge Hammer do do the cutting. No need to stop for two stroke gas/oil.

How did it react to the 155? I would imagine it may even be happy at about 148-150. But don't jump all the way down at once.

Meh, the asphalt guys I know shake epoxy cases apart over 10mm stroke. I'm not saying they can't live, but it's gonna be hard to keep alive for the duration of land speed racing.

Pull the cover and check that the eccentric shift dowl is adjusted properly. Make sure that the detent arm and spring are to weebly wobbly. Check that the shift shaft isn't all slopped out. If you're unsure of what all that is, it's time to order a manual.

What exhaust? Maybe BHP might see this.

Could be rich on pilot and needle and lean up top. The first photo with the small edge of metal that's blackish, was that wet? If so it's probably washing the plugs from being rich. Hard to tell with out crisp photos.

So, has this motor had the transfers worked over yet? We all know this thing should come alive once that's done and tested.

Way fat. Motor combo?

-Back the timing down a degree. (look at the depositing on the tip of the strap) -172 on the main -Maybe a 52 on pilot (how does adjusting the screw affect it) -Needle I would leave till the main is dialed. Then worry about the transition. One thing at a time. That's assuming this thing really was making enough load/heat to get a good reading in fifth. If that's the case, you're pretty lucky you didn't get it wound out in 6th.

^ they are marked. Make sure they are matched.

Check that the chain rollers are actually rolling.

The rods would say Hot Rods. CK code with a number will tell ya' what rods.

5 years is a good run on any parts inside a stout serval that is ridden regularly. How often do you inspect/maintain things though? I'd assume they didn't just all break down like that after one drop of the clutch.... Make sure you are pulling the cover regularly, changing the oil more often and actually looking in the oil. It will always tell you when things need to be worked on.

Yes

Elephant in the room: 14mil stroke in OEM cases. Yeah you can epoxy the waffle ribbing on the bottom of the cases and trench them to take the 68mm crank, but the vibration is known to rattle cases apart on 300' machines. This thing needs to be able to roll in real easy and then be flogged wide open for say a full minute. There is gonna have to be ample testing done to make sure the domes and pipes allow the motor to rev that high. Most big stroke banshee based motors are barely getting over 9,500. Drag guys kill shit with extreme load and shutter, the land speed stuff kicks the bucket over harsh harmonics. Speak with Crankworks or Falicon about balancing the rotating assembly. Gearing, might need to call Robinson for a custom ratio trans. With everything on the market right now your probably gonna end up getting an RZ based trans, putting 2.08 primaries on, and 17-18 front sprocket up front with a rear sprocket barely bigger then the rear hub.

Meh, first issue is making sure you have the matching primary gear that goes on the crank snout. The basket is self doesn't look so hot. The mark outside isn't a big deal, but the chatter grooves in the fingers are a bit of an issue. They make engagement of the clutch feel very chattery or clunky. You may be able to file some of the inner finger to smooth it out, but ultimately a new basket would be best.

I was referring to the people actually posting the words "rip off". It's a fair price.

WTF is wrong with you morons.... A Billit impeller new from anyone plus that gear from mull is totally fair for $100. OP, that is definitely not a mull impeller, but it was a decent Billit none the less.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/RATH-RACING-YAMAHA-BANSHEE-SWAYBAR-BAR-MOUNTS-ONLY-/221823691317?nav=SEARCH One minute find.

Nice start. That should be a decent bike when you're done with it.