trickedcarbine

I believe those arms were basic LT arms modded with perches. I may have some old messages from him and I’ll see if I can get a brand and name on who modded them for the additional perches. In the end if you’re picking a length, decide on whether or not it’s a dedicated street cruiser or if you intend on taking it to the track. If you’re doing track days, I believe many classes of mortad racing allow 52 inches wide or 132cm.

Any Ricky Stator, Rick’s, or RM electrical components?

Fireball if you want it for trails or rec riding. Carbon Race Parts can hook you up if you need it light weight for racing.

155-160 main, 50-55 pilot, needle second from the bottom clip.

This is the way to go. I did a set of carbon bands like the street bikes use but they came apart on the second ride.

Have the stockers rebuilt and bored to 28's before you ever consider knock off PWK's.

.038 is a bit tight imo. You typically wanna see these things between .045-.055 depending on setup. What base gasket do you have and is your head just a milled stocker.

Driveline LP 421 or 421 Serval

Anything but ModQuad and Pro Design. The Pro Design has way to many parts and O rings.

Air nozzle and lots of brake cleaner if you can't be bothered to split the cases. Hit us up when you're curious how to put new bearings on the crank....

That👆

Totally legit.

If you want it to be stock looking, do a Driveline LP set up. Their power numbers are on par. With the CP cylinders now and they look almost OEM to the un trained eye. Definitely stick to the PWK's on the serval. There are more of them out there so set up info is abundant and they are more suited to the trail riding.

When you see the ambush tires with lower air pressure, they wrinkle up like drag slicks. The side wall on them was well thought out. That's where the extra traction is at. The Maxxixs Razr won't flex anywhere near what the Ambush does.

The snipers will go with out much modifying.

Nobody needs that kind of negativity^ lol. 421 or bust!

Air leak. Get it found and sealed up or it will melt down.

This guy knows what’s up.

Is your kid talented enough to ride really well? If so, go fetch a Cobra quad. If they are just going to learn, but maybe down the road you wanna put a few parts on it try the Kasea and Eton.

Dennis is spot on with the AMP link. They are junk. If you want something to keep chain tension, grab one of the spring loaded arms from a multitude of companies.

If you want mileage, get a new 4 stroke and leave it stock. Having a banshee and expecting decent mileage is like buying a massive truck to haul with a V8 and wondering why it can’t make it past a gas station.

The Twister stuff is awesome, but it’s just a small shop and they sort of don’t really care to compete with the volume other manufacturers are doing. So in turn they are limited on production, and it requires a stroke of luck and all of the stars aligning for them to respond to Email or phone calls. I don’t see the doors staying open very much longer.

High heat silicon tubing from McMaster Carr.

Same goes with the Borrink products.

When the fingers are lower at idle or part throttle the clutch plate will push the lower rounded part of fingers out slightly when you pull the lever. Then as you get in to throttle the top rounded part of the fingers make contact with the pressure plate to add lock up force. In your drawing with three different ways it could touch the pressure plate, definitely like #1 or #2. They definitely get squirlly when it’s so far out like #3.