criswrld

I meant go up on the pilot for reeds. Anyway here's a great site I found while doing some research on fine tuning a banshee. It's basically everything about banshee carbs and fine tuning them and it's really helpful. Check it out!!!!!!!!! Copy and Paste www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

I have t-6 pipes, modded lid w/ K&N, boyessen carbon fiber reeds, and boost bottle. Given this fact they say go up 8 for pipes which given stock is about 200-220 depending on where you live, that alone would put me around 280-290. Then a K&N you should go 4-6 up which then puts me at 320-350 range and then aftermarket reeds another 2. So i think from going by all that 340 is perfect. Just going on everything i read from manufactures and sites like bansheehq. No needles aren't bottomed in main because if i put slides in without being hooked up with cables they go all the way down. As far as my pillots go every one on this site thats done these mods have went with a 30 or in other cases a 32.5 or even alittle bigger so i would say i'm really close on the pilots and mains. I honestly believe that if i adjust needle up or down 1, not sure which yet and fine tune air screws it should be set. But like i said i'm no expert by far and just know what i've read and right now it's unfortanetly trial and error. If anyone has some other info or ideas feel free to clue me in some more. Thanks to all

One of the stock needles has a slight bend on end from dropping it and isn't useable. Finally may have figured something else out though. Someone suggested messing with idle screw some which is aftermarket because tors were removed. Anyway i was reading up on idle screw kits and read that they have a locknut on them. Anyway mine does not have one, it has a little o-ring on it which original person may have put on there for some reason, dont know. Anyway someone told me to drive it out further which i did about 5-6 turns out. Set the air screws on two. Finally got it to idle without choke being on and it does idle very good now. But when i took it down the rode for a split second it did have a slight hesitation in 1/4 to maybe 1/2 or more throttle which would be needles. Heres the thing though, i pulled choke half out and it dies within 5 seconds, pull it fully and it dies right then. Anyway i let it cool until pipes were cold and went to start it with choke half and nothing. Then fully, nothing. Then without choke on and nothing still. Then gave it alittle throttle and it fired up and idled. So given all of this and my brains fried from reading so much and messing withit i'm not sure if i should start messing with needle settings or what. The whole choke thing has me alittle puzzled right now. Im not sure if i could dial air screws in alittle better or go straight for the needle. Obvious answer for now wouild be air screws but at this point im not sure if i'm running rich or lean. It's dark out and i live in a residential area so my fine tuning is done for the night. Thank you and please repond asap because i may start ripping into tonight possibly but can't start it motor until tomorrow. One other thing i noticed is i didn't really see to much smoke when idling but when i crack throttle open it smoked quit abit still so then again im not sure if it's rich or lean, im thinking the choke deal will tell you guys something though. Thanks

Pulling the choke out doesn't make it run better, it just makes it idle without the higher revving. If i pull choke all the way out, it dies. Take it down rode with choke out it runs like shit, pop it in and it takes off almost like it should. Also yes 1/4 more needle is longer and would make it run leaner but however theres that problem with slides being open 1/4 or more with no throttle or anything which kinda rules out the longer needle issue in a way. This is the problem of buying a quad with mods already because you didn't do everything your self. Thats why it's nice to do things yourself and fix problems as you go instead of trying to fix something when you got fifty other issues that could be the problems also. If i was planning on keeping it i would just buy a single carb and that would fix all my problems but unfortanetly im taking a beating on it already and refuse to dump big money into more. So i have to fix this problem and have no other choice than to get it done. Thank you

When i last had carbs apart, i was messing with idle screws thinking that they were what was hanging up slides, If you unscrew them almost all the way out till you have only a little point showing while looking in carbs they will drop slides down but theres still a gap there half the size or more. Also i just sprayed half a can of WD around intake area that your were mentioning and all boots and had a spot light on them and noticed no bubbles or anything that would spell leak. Also as far as gaskets go from intake it goes...gasket, spacer, gasket, reed cage,rubber boot, and then carb. I sprayed this area down good and noticed nothing at all. Things i might try now are.............. 1. Unscrew idle screws till theres nothing inside of carb but a little point poking out. 2. Take everything apart again and inspect the never reeds. 3. Detach throttle cable from twist throttle and see if it drops slides down completely. This would rule out the original owner did or didn't install twist cable after replacing thumb throttle. 4. Mess with needles in carbs, but honestly im not sure which way to go with these since everything doesn't make since now on how to adjust it. 5. anything else you guys think i should look at or not. Thank you everyone!!!

Also forgot to add while finding out all of this i tried messing with air screws from starting in .5 turn to 2 turns out and nothing making a difference. Even messed with idle screws from 1 turn and then 2 turns out and nothing either.

Haven't yet torn into it but i did figure out a few things. When you start it, 1st kick without choke on it fires right up but it revs high. Pull the choke and it sits and idles. Take it down the street with choke on, it runs like crap, Put the choke in and it takes off and runs almost like it should. Pull choke all the way out and it dies. When idleing with choke off it revvs high but it's a consistent high and doesn't go up or down even when you turn the bars so therefore i would think the cable isn't binding and besides it iidles with choke on but does run like crap that way. Would this info wouldn't this rule out 1. cable binding 2. air leak which i haven't yet tested it. If i'm mistaken i thought if you pulled choke out and it runs great your motors running lean. If it runs like crap with choke out its rich?????? I'm very confused on all of this and can't figure it out. Just for recap im running 340 main, 30 pilot, and aftermarket needle which is longer than stock and has 6 clip positions and its on the forth. Please help me figure this out. Thank you to all for the great knowledge.

Haven't yet torn into it but i did figure out a few things. When you start it, 1st kick without choke on it fires right up but it revs high. Pull the choke and it sits and idles. Take it down the street with choke on, it runs like crap, Put the choke in and it takes off and runs almost like it should. Pull choke all the way out and it dies. When idleing with choke off it revvs high but it's a consistent high and doesn't go up or down even when you turn the bars so therefore i would think the cable isn't binding and besides it iidles with choke on but does run like crap that way. Would this info wouldn't this rule out 1. cable binding 2. air leak which i haven't yet tested it. If i'm mistaken i thought if you pulled choke out and it runs great your motors running lean. If it runs like crap with choke out its rich?????? I'm very confused on all of this and can't figure it out. Just for recap im running 340 main, 30 pilot, and aftermarket needle which is longer than stock and has 6 clip positions and its on the forth. Please help me figure this out. Thank you to all for the great knowledge.

Slides don't appear to be sticking, they fuction without any resistance and in sync. Tops are tight. Haven't looked at reeds since install but they only have about 1 hour on them and we're tight upon install. I will check for airleak first and if nothing then i will take all apart once again and will check reeds. Ducman suggested ditching spacers, if i do have to dissassemble everything do you second that?? Thank you for your response.

While i hope it's not running out of fuel!!! The only thing that concerns me about my jetting is the damn aftermarket needle which is about 1/4 or more longer than stock and not sure how far its going down into carb?? But given theres that slide issue or not, but where it's open 1/4 inch or so the longer needle might not be affecting the flow of things. Like i said it's a 6 position needle and i have it on the 4th, technically would make it leaner if it weren't for the slides being up some. As for airleak i'm thinking thats a possibility however before i started rejetting it wasn't a issue of revving irratically it was only a case or running too rich and i found slides to be reversed and thought everything would be fine after that!!! I will spray for airleaks friday and post my findings. How should i go about doing that though, choke off it's revving to high and choke on it's fine, should i spray intakes down with choke on w/ WD and if it start running like crap thats the problem?? Thanks again

So you would suggest ditching the spacers?? When i spray for the air leak around intake area, given the idling problem should i try and run it with choke on or off with it revving higher?? Basically if there is a air leak the WD will cause it to start running poorly?? Let me know and i will post what i find on friday. Thanks to everyone for all the great advice!!!

2001 banshee w/ Bolt-on mods........... Toomey T-6 pipes, boyessen carbon fiber reeds and spacers, K&N with 8 holes drilled on top of lid, boost bottle. Basically only bolt-ons and motor is strictly stock. Stock carbs w/ tors removed- I put 340 mains, 30 pilot, aftermarket needle which has 6 positions, its on the 4th from blunt end. 2 screws out on air screws. 2 out on idle. Carbs in sync with no play or hesitation. No i haven't sprayed for air leaks yet either. Also pipes and reeds are newer and have just been jetted to settings above. Also i would love to get a new set of stock needles to make dialing it in better but i'm not paying LBS $50 something dollars for two needles. That does also include 4 screws and mounting hardware on top of slides but still that seems rediculous. I just need two stock needles which they don't sell separately. Anyway............. Here's what its doing. After havng carbs apart, it started on 1st kick without choke. As it started, probably 20 seconds into it the motor started revving up without me doing anything. I started trying to dial in the idle screws and nothing, then i got about 1/2 turn in or out on the air screw can't remember. Basically with it revving iratically which bothered me because i don't want to mess anything up i resorted to pulling the choke half out and it calmed idle down to normal. I let it warm up to where the pipes were warm/hot with choke on the whole time. Once i thought it was at a good operatiing temp, i turned choke off and it revved irratically again which really Pissed me off because im tired of tearing it apart over and over again. Put choke back on which calmed it again and decided to take it down the rode which i only got the end of second and came back. It had a bog to it which didn't surprise me much since given the condition of having to have the choke on. Although i didn't rev it up when first initial trying to work things out it seemed like it was gumming up or something, hard to tell. Given all this info my guesses would be............... 1. Air leak after reading all the various other threads on bansheehq 2. Choke tube but mines installed and isn't the issue. 3. My slides aren't backwards anymore so thats not the issue either which i didn't do by the way although if given the chance i probably would have. 4. Needle setting is incorrect?? 5. Mess with air screws more?? 6. Oh yeah it does still smoke quit abit too, At first start up i didn't notice much but after messing with settings for the split second i did, I managed to make it smoke again. Also is smoke white or blueish, i have no clue because not only am i no mechanic im also colorblind. But i did check antifreeze levels and they have not diminished at all and oil level is the same. Smoke doesn't smell sweet either, it's more like going to a indoor motocross show, gotta love that smell. Anyway i know this thing is going to scream once it's dialed in better. I just need everyones professional opinions. Thanks again J.J.