ToomeySheeLE

Hey guys.. Just looking for some input, after riding around for a while my gearbox seems "sticky" and alot harder to shift than at the start of my ride.. I'm using a modified shift star and it shifts like butter until 15 or so minutes of riding.. I use 80w gearsaver and it only has a few rides on it... any ideas what could cause this? I often shut it down after a while of riding and let it cool for 10 minutes before continuing.. More of an annoyance than anything.. Thanks for any input Brad

If your a bit rich right now, you should be closer to "bang-on" when you switch back to pods.. You might have to turn your airscrews in 1/2 turn. I'd try it where you are now though and see how it adjusts.

Hey all, Just replacing a the lower ball joint on my ricky stator a-arms(due to a bent one, not sure what bent it). and Im wondering if i had them together wrong the first time.. Do the Nuts on the ball joints go on the inside or outside of the arm? I have them on the outside and thought they acted as a lock, but it looks like they'd also work the other way around.. also have noticed that they loosen up and make some play after riding.. thinking about loctiting the hell out of them... Thanks for any help Brad

Alrighty, thanks guys Got it up and running (think there wasn't enough gas getting through it before). Heat cycled it and took it for a ride.. once it gets hot after riding for a while and i shut it off it doesn't want to start up again without some throttle... is this a sign of a too large/small of pilot? also torn the plugs out of it when i got it home and they're black and wet... Thanks for anymore help Brad P.S I've also never had a problem with my Noss Coolhead.. (didn't even mention owning one before) I think "KaosBanshee44" was replying to the wrong thread..

I have a set of New Kehein 28pwks with Uni dual stage pods I'll let go of for 300$ shipped.. Ended up getting way more motor work done than first expected and have since goine with 35pwks... 28's will give you more throttle responce and top end, even on a stock motor.

Hey all Just trying to get my bike up and going, after a long stressful time off. Trying to dail my carbs in and I'm having a bitch getting it up and running.. doesn't want to start without choke and then it revs up good once it does fire. Have a F.A.S.T dune ported 4 mill,CPI inframes, running on 35pwks with K&N pods. premium pump gas,130psi 400Ft above sea level, my current jetting is 160 mains, 45 pilots, and Cel middle clip.. if anyone has any suggestions that would be great Thanks in advance Brad

Go fuck yourself... does that help? You bring up a very interesting point.. hope to read a good explination.. As I would think the same as you, taking up more space in the combustion chamber should raise the compression.. Makes you wonder how to get a "true" reading.. Most likely since your spark plug threads are close to the length of the once adapter that would be the best bet as far as believing one reading over another.. As far as octane requirements, definitly go with a mix of race gas if your in doubt... I just detonated my new motor.. nothing sucks more... too be safe i plan on running a mix if im over 150psi as I want to go +4 on the timing. Good luck Brad

hey everyone Just wondering which uni Pods fit 35pwks, and if theres an outherwear that can fit over aswell... Just trying to change to Uni's from K&N's that are a little slack. thanks Brad

careful though, I tried to hacksaw mine down and ended up cutting a slot into the drain plug on my 28's.. ordered a new one then some reed spacers..

If i still had my toomeys and had to do it over again i would go for the spark arresters and leave the hush kit on the shelf to rot...

Hey everyone just like the topic states.. I would like to trade my 20cc 4mm Noss cut domes for a pair of 21cc cut domes.. reason being I dont want to run race gas, and if I keep these I can't run 94octane and 4 degrees of timing advance.... Please dont tell me I can....Already been told that and Already detonated it. They have 3 rides on them and are in mint shape, they put out 160psi. Thanks Brad

I assume your talking about reed spacers? Did you just grind and weld the nut on the bottom of your carbs? I was running K&N pods off my 35's and had to cut the front tabs off just to get the filters to fit in.. what a pain in the ass..

I tried getting in without the hush kit and quickly got turned around.. Went back to the truck(in their parking lot) and threw it on in 2 minutes and cruised in with no problems at all.. I had the expensive one with the built in spark arrester, although they never checked it for that, think they just assume they are all arrested.. I agree the hush kit does rob you of power, even though toomey claims it doesn't.... POS

I would like to do the same thing with my 35pwks and know its going to be fun.. Any chance you could cut some of the plastic off the front of the box where the boots attach? like 3/4 - 1"? i know there is more there than needed... I saw a guy last weekend that was running 28's and he had an aluminum box, not sure what brand it was but it was really tiny...

I have a used(not by me) 4mm hodrods crank I'd let go for 125$ shipped.. could use new bearings, Jeff at F.A.S.T had it in his hands and told me that I could run it as it is, but it would make more noise then a nice and tight new one.. I bought it off ebay for 350$, and feel i was ripped a new one, as i was told it was as good as new.. Im not telling you that, it could use new bearings, but is however runable. Brad

Looking to buy a set of ported OEM banshee cylinders for a 4mm, done by a well known shop.. Let me know if you have any kicking around.. and what bore they're on etc.. Thanks Brad

Have a mint set, with longer needles, and tors, and extra jets 100$ shipped Brad

Rocketboy... How would this port job match up with a 4mm crank? Thanks

What exactly is this "walmart" brand... Here welfaremart sells alot of oils (besides the high end priced ones)... but i know they sell a castrol 2 stroke oil... whats the name on the 2 stroke oil you run?

BLUE MARBLE 40:1... Plan to switch to something else......NEVER, unless my dealer dies. Never fouled a plug. Trans: Castrol 10w40 Motorcycle oil Probally change it 3 times a season $3 per litre

Same leverage? Probally pretty close.. I would say you'd be putting less stress on alot of your front end components if the arms were +2 from the get go, and also the 5/8" forward will help eliminate some of the bump steer an hosilities felt through the front end.. If your getting a good deal on the arms and dont have a financial problem, i'd say go for it..

Thanks for the prices I will likely end up getting one through rockymountain... as they are 49.99... ronnies is only $4 cheaper and I've not dealt with that company...

The Ricky stators are 2" wider on each side and moved forward 5/8 "... I would think you'll want to turn your front rims back in, or else you'll almost be rediculasly wide in the front. As for your shocks you should be alright for a while, they will likely feel softer and sit more compressed with your weight on the bike, but unless your mx'ing or jumping alot you should be alright in that department for now... I recently just got some S/H ricky stator arms as well, they seem awesome. Have yet to ride on them though, unfortunitly. Good luck, Good choice.

I've already had my case cracked and went through the process of having it welded.. And dont want to go through that again... After seeing the pics posted and reading your thoughts, I'll be getting the TM designworks one.. anyone been pricing them out at all? Just wondering where the cheapest place is to find em. Thanks Brad

Ginny the fat chick? Either there is 2 different "Ginny's" or your blind.. She's Fucking SMOKIN! The poster i have of her is on a white and red 450R in a black bikini..