ToomeySheeLE

BLUE MARBLE!!!!!!!!!!!!! 40:1 perhaps 50:1 next year awesome oil Yamalube is garbage after your motor is broken in ditch that dirty shit

I was running main jet 280;s and pilots 27.5 stock is 25. Mine worked awesome.. also had the toomey needles , but that doesn;t sound like the problem here to me..

Hi everyone, I just am thinking down the road about extending my bike and getting a better front end setup than stock. I was wondering how +4 axles handle jumps and carve compared to stock length? Also how are the Works Steelers front shocks? I see they are about the cheapest aftermarket shocks for plus 2 a-arms out there and dont appear to have all the goodies as the 5X more epensive ones, are they much improved over stock or just heavier duty and made for extended a-arms? Also does anyone ride with the Fox float shocks? and how do you like them, they look and sound like they'd be really good, but I havent heard any banshee riders talk about using them. Alrighty I think thats all that was scratching at my brain for now, Thanks for any responses, Brad For fuck sakes.... I must have went braindead there, I meant how does an extended +4 swingarm handle jumps and carve? Thanks

How much are you asking for the fullbores? Are they purple? or black...good condition or scratched..hard to tell in that pic those look like t-6s..

Have a 2000 Cr250R for sale or trade for either a banshee or 250cc quad or atc. The bike is in excellent shape, new top end/ front and rear plastics, chain & sprokets, Reeds, Clutch, Air Filter, tires both in very good condition, never raced on rebuilt motor, stock bore, fmf pipe. Starts 1st kick and runs like new, very stong and fast. Looking for somewhere in the $2500US range. Located in Southern Ontario 2 hours east of Toronto. PM me with your email if you want pics.. just tried to put them on here and it didn't seem to work... Thanks

Is your Tecate 4 still up for sale? Do you have the paper work for this quad? Interested in trading for a 2000 CR250R thats in excellent shape? Or a 78' CB550 SuperSport one of the nicest ones around for its age? If so please PM me. THanks

I like to take either gas or desiel to the swingarm I like to take either gas or desiel to the swingarm to get all the Non-fly off chain lube off and make it shine.. I find warm water and sunlight dishsoap on the fenders and just about everywhere else seems to work fine. Then its armorall time. I recently bought into a gimic product thats suppose to repell dust.. I think its called Ipone Rejewvinator or something on those lines(comes in a HUGE areosol can.. well one ride and it seems just like armorall and attracts all kinds of dust.. also seems like you have to apply alot of it to get a good shine to start with.. Dont be victim of this junk. Pressure washers seem to make the bike look clean at the time but onece it dries mine always needs alot more attention.. I suppose if you own one its deferent, cause you could spend more time but when your payin almost a dollar a minute at the wash it kind of sucks. Brad

Hey there everyone, Just got off the phone with a guy whos trying to sell a 1987 banshee motor, he's asking 350$ and it needs a new top end and crank bearing.. so he's certianly asking enough in my opinion. He advertised it saying fastest banshee motor made.. he told me on the phone that the 87 motors had less restrictions and alot of little things that made them faster than all other years, he also said that they came with bigger carbs(which he sold) this made me wonder, did they really? I was thinking "i dont think so" the whole time he was telling me this.. So my question is, was there any difference between the 87 motors and the motors made after? Thanks

I've ran a few different oils in my banshee tranny.. I ran the Belray gearsaver 80w for quite a while and then switched to Castrol grand prix 4 stroke 10-40 motorcyle oil.. mainly started running this because i needed to change my oil and didn't have time to run to town. Well it works great for me and i plan on using it for my next tranks-oil change. At half the price how can you go wrong, hasn't made my Tusk clutch slip or burn out yet anyways..

hey my buddy just bought a new g force axle we got it put in but then 3 peice locking axle nut kinda doesnt look right from what i notced all thats really holding the axle from sliding out is a snap ring that go's into a grove and the locking nut just pushs up againsted it? to me im always thinking this c clip is just going to pop out and mt axle ins going to slide out? i was just wondering if anyong has had any problems or even know what im talking about

hey guys i have a set of aftermarket 10" rims but when on my bike the fronts looks dull i noted that they have a a clear coating on them and if i could get that off then it would take no time to polish the bare aluminum. has anyone used a stripper or anything else other then samding till your fingers bleed.

While putting (or trying) to put my Cpi pipes on my bike I think I muct have broke the record saying "UNFUCKINGBELIEVABLE" Same problem as already talk about how they dont fit on the stinger tubes...worth a shit. Mine are not tight but i have the rubber clamps tight enough so they dont leak... It sure sucks to see you had to dent your pipe like that.. THey SURE NEED SOME QUALITY Control down there at the factory.. every set of pipes they produce seem to have their own list of problems... I think they're trying to mold them for fit on a 87 banshee thats been rolled and tumbled down a huge ass hill.. anyways.. looking from behind my one stinger tube sits slightly higher than the other just like in your pic.. my t-6s where like that too.. (that is the only complaint i have on those well made pipes) and it wasnt quite as out as these are.. How are you getting your front exhaust hanger to hold up? mine keep breaking, I drilled holes through them and bolted them together.. needless to say the bolt break or loosen off(when i locktite, they break)... anyways its a bastard of a deal.. are the aftermarket ones stronger? i see some from rocky mountain that look good but they're not worth 60$ if they split or break the same way.... on the stock frame there are little pipe-stoppers just after the a-arms and on the one side my pipe taps it just at the right angle to miss the rubber stopper and hit the metal plate behind it... on the other side there must be a good 1 INCH! of clearence.. i think im going to take the grinder to that right after i post this and take the god forsaken mount and stopper it right off....My luck it will come flying up and take me in the eye....unfuckenbelievable.. After buying these pipes and attempting to get ahold of CPI to resolve some issuses.. I wish i spent the extra 100$ and bought the GRR inframes.. those boys are at least good to talk to and surely they must have on MEAN pipe for the price they charge. that all the ranting i got for now. Still pissed off Brad

I will definitly check into Jeff @ fast before buying carbs.. I was told that once you do a serious port job on the cylinders, you lose alot of compression, thats why i was thinking 18 cc to bump it back up, is this not true? Also I think i'll go to the foam Pod filters over the k&n's it gets damn dusty around here.. Thanks

First of all THanks For all the responces! THat's awesome and i think you guys cleared it up for me. By the way i am still running the airbox (snorkel removed, and 12 vents). I was riding with the guy I sold my t-6's too and the cpis do pull through the gears faster and rev quicker with my setup.. my plugs look pretty good, but i might go up to 330's because they are a bit lighter than they were with the t-6's. I think i will stick with the setup for the rest of the season, or until I see a set of drag ported jugs out there that fit my budget.. I also see that 35pwk carb kits can be bought for 335.00 so thats definitly a possibility too. With the mild port job i got now i think that just throwing on some 33-35pwks would be a waste of time as i think i'd lose alot of power on the bottom. I truely can;t believe that CPI's arn't better made after their years of service.. its like they are trying to fit them in their shop on a banshee with a bent frame.. that really wouldn't surprize me.. i just got the 2 tubes as close as I could and clamped the sam hell out of them... them dont seem to leak anymore.. After 2 rides both of my front frame mounts broke.. I took one off and drilled two small holes in it, then put two small bolts threw and tightened it.. needless to say 1 more ride under the belt and the one bolt is MIA and the other is 80% backed out.. time for the lock-tite treatment.. What a pain in the ass.. OH yeah and someone asked if i bought them new or used for how much.. I bought them off an ebay store for 528.99 the aucton started at 527.99... The guy always has them on there, but now it seems like they are just a buy it now item... perhaps i did get the lemons of the bunch. He also sells the carbs for the price i stated above.. as does magic racing.. One fairly simple question to leave with, once i manage to get a dune/drag port what size domes should i use in my Noss Head to keep compresson up but not need race gas? I almost won 18 cc domes off ebay for the future build, but was wondering it that was the size i should be bidding on.. pump octane is 91-94 here for premiums(depending on station).. i think the 94 has additives to bump it to that number, so the 91 high test would be my preference to stick with. Thanks again for all your folks help Brad

Hello All... Just sold the t-6s' and got some cpi inframes.. First off i noticed the quality of the CPI's is alot less to be desired than the t-6s.. The weld are gaudier and the chroming doesn't look quite as good.. Anyone else find it nearly impossible to get the stinger tube to attach securly to the headpipe? they didn't come with clamps for some reason and im depending on my old ones to keep them from leaking since they're not quite flush together.. Alright quality complaining aside how about performance, they definitly pull threw the gears faster, but they sure don't scream and spin like the t-6. I have mild portwork done and running them on stock carbs 320 main jet, 30 pilot at sea level.. My t-6 where jetted the same except a 300 main. they dont seem to bog but i thought they'd pull harder.. do these jetting spec sound right? The needles are longer ones from toomey and they are set up with the clip in the position toomey reccomends..(I forget). Thanks for any input Brad

IS that the 4 mill stroker with 5 mm rods? Why are you selling it, and would you ship to Canada? How much would you want for the +4 swingarm?

Thanks. I;m going to try that transmission check trick. I have a clymers and there is nothing in it that addresses my problem. I'm hoping the tranny is ok, but i'll be stumped again if it is.. the transmission oil was at the right level and hasn't been leaking.. The reason i mentioned the clutch and ball failure is because i didn't reinstall those parts.. the case had to be split to take out those mangled parts and i left that to a mechanic that i thought knew what he was doing.. any chance something in there isnt catching just right to create this problem.. Thanks alot so far. Brad I'm glad my posting of this problem helped sell a clymer manual..hah

The alignment marks are all lined up.. Its; not the first clutch i've put together, assembly isn't the problem.. the thing that gets me is that i rode it for about six good rides and then it goes tits up... What was your other suggestion?

Well I fiddled with it for the better part of this morning and I can't get it to work right... when you pull the hand lever are you suppose to see the fiber and friction plates move or just the pressure plate.. only the pressure plate moves.. but i think thats the way its suppose to be.. I can either adjust it so the cluch doesn't work at all or loosen it off so the bike pushes whether its in gear or not... can't seem to get it in between..

Hey everyone, just wondering if someone could shed some light on my problem. I just installed a new Tusk clutch and after about six ride it seems to have a serious problem.. When i put the banshee in gear and pull the lever in (pulls in feels like its engaging) and try to push the bike either forward or reverse it still catches the gear as if the clutch is totally unoperative. So I drained it and took the clutch cover off and dissassembled the clutch and looked it over... the plates and fibers seem to be fine.. as they should being nearly brand new. so i put those back in correctly and started playing with the adjustment screw in the center of the pressure plate.. i can get the bike so it moves freely in all the gears when i loosen it off.. and when i tighten it up or anywhere in between it starts acting like the original problem and catching all gears whether the clutch lever is pulled in or not.. my rod and ball welded together 2 months ago and all new parts where installed there.. so that shouldn't be the problem.. Seems wierd to me and i couldn't find anyone with the same problem when i did a search on here.. It was hard to explain so hopefully someone knows what I'm talking about.. Thanks for any input or suggestions. Brad

Just to add to the post. I have the t-6's had my bike ported over the winter, and raised the compression probally just over stock with a 20cc dome (noss machine) cool head.. The bike in general pulled harder all through the gears with the port job( kinda all round port) it pulls the front tire off the ground when i hit it in 4th, which was impossible before, without alot of yank anyways.. So in my opinion if you have the t-6's and want more snap, get someone to do a mild port job.. remember you will lose alittle compression when they open your ports up so have the head shaved a bit or change your domes if you have a cool head. Any more power and a longer swingarm is needed.. kinda scary pulling the front way off the ground while ripping up a steep hill in 3rd gear. Oh yeah, 14 - 38 gearing. My jetting was 310 mains when it was cooler, now Im at 300s, clip same as toomey t-6 kit recommends(i forget) and 25 mains My next step is going 4 mill stroker, 33pwk carbs, probally a heavy port job, and probally looking for Cpi's or Grand river pipes.. that comment about having no bottomend with the Cpi's in the dunes kinda scares me though. + Probally a few years down the road. One other thing... I just put a hush kit on i ordered from toomey, and i feel it holds my bike back a bit.. havent seen anyone else say this.. perhaps a mental thing b/c its quieter.. but i believe it doesn't pull quite as hard anywhere.. and unless its my set up, Toomey is full of shit about gaining top end with the hush kit installed.. Hope it helps someone decide, Brad 03 Le Shee Tr-6's Boyseen power reeds, Noss machine cool head Mild All round port job, Wiesco pro lites, .30 over Dura blue clamp on filter kit. stock carbs BLUE MARBLE OIL! 40 :1

Six of my friends and i plan on going to Silver Lake the July 1st weeekend.. We're coming from Canada and its a 10 hour drive, can anyone tell me if its worth it and if its a wicked place to ride or not? Also we all have pipes on our bikes... should we throw back to stock? how tough are the sound laws there? Anything else i need to know, or pics of people riding there would be awesome. Thanks alot Brad

Running with snorkel off/ air box vents and pro design filter. Sea level and it gets around 25- 30 degrees celcius in the summer when riding.. I'll try the toomeys if they dont seem that good i'm going to try to get a set of cpi's.. opening up all ports

I'm using 280's now with the tr6's and I'm wondering where i should start as a main jet size and needle position for dialing my bike in once its ported, any help to carb setup would be great. Thanks

my t-6 are jetted at 280 mains and run great.. i believe thats what they call for with those mods/pipes/ reeds/airbox