ToomeySheeLE

Heres a pic of the blowby... less than a season on this topend, rings appear as good as new..

Hate to revive this post, but since i figured nothing out here we go... I took my head off and heres a pic, when the pistons at BDC the crown of it is still a couple mm higher than the bottom of the ports.. Is this a reason for my all the blow by im getting as shown in the other post, and can this cause a lack of power?

I'm just wondering if someone can tell me why I'm getting this much blow by.. Topend has less than a season on it and the rings and cylinder walls look as good as new.. I'll attempt to post pics..

20"knarlys, +4 swinger, 15-41gearing, 175lbs In the sand(Silver Lake) I was running 22-10-10 10 paddle haulers, 14-41 gearing..

I'll be tearing back into it tomorrow then.. The pistons are definitly in the right way, it looks to the eye that all ports are opening fully, i'll check it over and take a couple pics..

Damn... just had the head off to look things over, to the eye it seems like everythings fine.. where would i begin to start with the measuring?

It seems to run well, just not fast... I have a brand new wiseco basket and new hd barnett fibers/streetbike fibers... so i dont think it can be a clutch issue...

Yes, its ported by a well known builder for the 4mm stroke and my pipes.., I'm running cpi inframes, was told i should expect around the 75hp mark with my setup..

As the topic states.. looking to trade a set of 4mm cut 21cc domes for cut 19's.. My 21's are in excellent condition and only have less than a season of run time.

I'm running 20cc domes cut for the 4mm, and I'm about 500feet above sea level.. Jetting is 158mains, dgk needles middle clip, and 50 pilots..I've had all kinds of different jetting to try to make it run better and it seems it likes this as well as any other combinations.. Even with 150psi its not leaving my buddies stock stroke/port 150psi banshee behind.. I have a timing plate and cranked the timing to +7 instead of +4.. didn't make much difference, all other electrical components are stock..

Hey Guys. Hoping I can get some info so I dont end up buying a bunch of parts I dont need.. I have a ported 4mill (35pwks,Cpi's,150psi)that doesn't run any stronger than a bolt on bike(t5's and coolhead), and therefore I'm thinking something is up.. I've got jetting nearly spot on. Done both a compression test and leakdown test and there's no flaws there, reeds look good.. Swapped my CDI box out with a friends and it ran the same... My local yamaha mechanic sold me new plugs and caps(without resistors) and the bike seems to idle stronger with the new caps, but thats about all that $45 got me.. Is there any one component in the electrical system that will just cause a lack of power everywhere and no other noticable engine running issues? Thanks for info Brad

Hey everyone I have a set of triple rate works shocks to sell.. Springs are in good shape, I ran these as they are but they could use a new seals kit ($40 from works). A bushing kit will also need to be purchase as I need some of them.. Asking 165$ Shipped. Also have a se of Duncan Pyramid Reed valves One side could use new reeds($40 range from duncan racing). I bought these used and never ran them myself. paid $80 asking 35$ plus shipping PM me your email for pics of either. Thanks Brad

Im not sure what to expect for these.. I'll start off by asking 300 plus shipping, with the pistons.. This wouldnt quite cover cost of the porting alone.

Im in the process of building my bike bigger and I have a top end that will be comming off and no longer used by me. Just checking interest on here befor hitting ebay with it. It was ported by Jeff at Farm and sand toys last winter and i've rode it hardly at all this past year. Its running good now, and I'm only tearing it apart to build bigger. The cylinders are dune ported for a 4mm and its probally running in the mid 70's for HP. Unfortinily its on one the last bores before having to go with blaster pistons or a resleeve. Its kicking over 160psi on each cylinder right now, with 21cc cut domes. It will come with weisco795series 66.25 pistons. I will try to get some pics as soon as I get the top end apart, hopefully later this week. Im not used to posting pics on this site, so i might need to email em to whoever may be interested. As far as a price goes, I'd like to say its open for offers right now. I would except paypal too.. Thanks Brad

Hey Your PM Box is full! Just wondering what your asking for your powdercoated cases, if there is any damage to them and are they modded for a stroker crank? Also if you still have either billet side case what are you asking for it/them? Thanks BRad

Running 15-41 gearing.. Tusk clutch 1 1/2 years old... seems to work good, but could be getting worn. Im running the exact same jetting as you on the 35's and agree its nearly spot on, with CPI's. I was running a +4 swingarm in Silver lake this summer and my bike was a joke compared to other way less modified bikes.. I was blaming it on my tires and loss of traction and only hope that was my downfall.. I was running cheap GBC 20-10-10 sand devils.. On the way back home, we stopped at magic racing and i fell for a set of 22-10-9 10 paddle haulers... Hope they work out better.. Since we have an almost identical set up; what kind of Hp do you think your bikes putting out burleybanshee?

Well I decided to put my 35's back on, as they were jetted way better than my 28's... didn't really want to put it away for the winter and have a "project" when i bring it back out.. Its funny some builder reccomend 28's with their port work for a 4mm and some 35's. Jeff told me a while back that his port job would run like a turd with 28's so that was his selling push for the 35's.. anyways its running good now, but just doesn;t have near the power i think it should.. Could i have a crankcase leak that would cause it to run good, but with less power? I rechecked my jetted and found that im running 158 mains in the 35's. by the looks of the plugs i could get away with a bit smaller main yet..

Well I was running a +4 swingarm and the welds broke so i ordered a quicksand one. Now after riding around with the stock swingarm for a few weeks and running New kenda knarlys i dont feel the bike needs a longer swingarm.. and to me that alone makes me think its not making the right power.. I am running +4 for timing and have a set of K&N and a set of Uni Pods .0045 squish 35pwks were jetted pretty good 160 mains and 48 pilots needle middle clip.. Main thing i noticed about running the 35's was the way I needed to fill my bike up about twice as often as i used to.

Hey there.. My mods are as follows: F.A.S.T Dune Ported 4mm. final bore CPI Small bore Inframes modded domes kicking 150psi I was running duel 35pwks and recently took them off as my bike wasn't a whole lot more impressive that a stock stroke, stock port, T-5 running banshee with similar compression. I was thinking Jeffs dune port is way over rated or my bike might have been "over carbed" because the only real noticable difference was at WOT, both bikes are geared the same. With the 35's it seemed to be jetted quite close and no sputtering or cutting out with the 35's. So.. I threw my 28pwks and smaller intakes on, jetted 160mains, 52 pilots and needle at the middle clip, blocked the stupid primer holes off with electrical tape (for now) what do you guys running 28's do? Anyways synched the carbs and my bike starts fairly similar as it did with the 35's needing some choke. Problem is that it cuts out bad as soon as i hammer on it.. I've been told my jetting should be close at what im at, and dont really want to take the carbs on and off 15 times to get it just a bit better.. Any help would be awesome.. Thanks Brad

Have a set of duel rate works shocks, set up for +2 arms 150-175lb rider, will ship via USPS for $200. Good working order. Will get pics, PM if interested. Brad

I had CPI's on a stock port and they performed nearly as good as the t-6's I sold.. Get the timing up to +4 and the 20cc domes, and you'll love it for a trail banshee, Thats all I had done to mine, besides reeds.

Every 10-20hrs riding depending on how hard i've been pushing it....

My clutch seems to be adjusted good, although i do know my clutch springs are slightly below spec.. perhaps that is the problem. When i put my motor back together I we getting a shorter micrometer reading than what the clymers reccommended for stock springs.. these are tusk heavy duty springs with only one season on them so i shugged my shoulders then slapped it back together... I was sick of ordering little parts to complete my build.. probally shouldn;'t have overlooked them..

Thanks for the ideas.. Why did you not try the silencer wrap you bought Justin? Now if i can et them from rubbing holes.. I've electical tapped alot of bad rub spots to give it a softer contact surface.. perhaps i'll just go like hell and tape it all up.. Wheres the best place to get prefilters? I see they're 18$ through cascade... anyone finding them cheaper than that? Thanks guys\ Brad

Hey guys Im running 35pwks carbs with CPI Sb inframes and I am constantly burning holes in my outerwares and cleaning my filters.. its getting sickening.. I've cut the airbox mounting tabs off to get the clearance for these large pod filters, but still have a bitch of a time trying to keep them from burning/rubbing holes.. I purchased a set of Uni pods off a fellow on planet sand, unfortunitly they must be for 39mm carbs cause the opening is a way too sloppy.. anyways even if they did fit they second layer of the Uni filter would quickly go up in flames as it rubs the stinger tubes of the silencers. Just wondering what Pods people are using for their 35pwks... thanks for any responces Part #'s and where you got what your using would also be a huge help.. Thanks again Brad