dajogejr

If you're running POD filters, (No Air Box) stop running that bike now. You need a 320 to 340 main jet....trust me, 280 is too lean. Get 340s and work your way down.

Unplug the box under the gas tank, the two leads going into the old throttle tops (now missing) and you may have to cross the wires coming off the throttle and/or parking brake. Did you JUST remove the TORS, or...did this bike run fine before with the TORS removed?

Shave the flywheel, get a timing plate and set it at +4. It will change the way your bike runs, period.... If you have the time....shave the stock head .025 to .030 as well, a little more compression will wake up the bottom end too.

Two things, you do NOT need to match the cases. it will give you a very, very slight gain if anything, and....it'll lessen your gasket sealing surface. If the motor is all apart...go ahead, place the base gasket on the cases, use a marker and shave the area not covered by the gaskets. However, are you prepared to split the cases and completely dissasemble the motor to get 1-2 HP tops....? Not worth it in itself, IMO. Second, why would you "drill" a 320 main? Mikuni carries jets over 400 series....unless you're running alcohol.... It made a difference because you probably needed a 330 or 340 main....which, is available all day long....????

Check the plugs to be sure, but...normally....a rejet is NOT required for timing or compression changes, unless extreme.

When it's running, spray some carb cleaner all around the VForce Reed cages, see if it dies down. Good idea to use hi-temp RTV on the gaskets when you put reeds in... What pilot, main jet and needle clip position are you using? Also....what temps do you ride in, and what's your eleveation?

What color is the smoke? And yes, normally...if you install the idle kit on the OEM carbs, you'll have to file down the boss so the screws actually touch the slides themselves. I've had the bike backfire on me if the choke tube from one carb to the other wasn't connected...also, if the TORS isn't properly disconnected as well.

Jeff from FAST is in Holton, KS. You can go to his site to get his phone number, addy...etc. www.farmandsandtoys.com PM [email protected] for Florida shops....he'll know some good ones 'round there....

Personal preference... Whatever works for you, works for you... I recently switched from years of Maxima Super M to Klotz R50....

Wes... Have you thought about having someone else try and program it? I've read and heard that Andy @ Grand River Racing has some really good curves....and I've read plenty of people that got from 2 or 3 and up to 8HP and a few ft. Lbs. out of one.... Just takes time....

I've used gearsaver for years, all my two stroke trannys. Probably change it after 3 or 4 good hard rides on the bike...never got sticky or nasty on me... :shrug: Then again, I warm up the bike then drain it....as you're supposed to.

Count me in...as long as you O Ring it, rechamber it and cut it for 68mm pistons... Seriously, i will donate it to a builder (prolly FAST Racing) to use in a future build to pass it on to a lucky member!

Don't know what you're talking about.... If you put 20's on your banshee and let your friend hop on with you, it'll do 100MPH all day long....especially runnin from the po-po. :yelrotflmao: :beer:

Reeds can be partially open....they usually don't completely seal and have a small gap when the motor is not running. You're really testing the crank seals, intake seals, base and head gasket....and case halves in the crankcase itself.... Reed petals won't seal completely unless the back pressure from the engine is had from it running....

Tell you what....you think they stick now, put 'em on a cub motor... Yeah, mine seemed to be ok with pods on teh stock motor.....I cleaned them often though. On my cub, They stuck real, real bad....and they were clean as a whistle.... Try the sanding as Wes mentioned, not too much, just get her smooth.... Hell, if you want, you can even try to polish them a little. No problems with my 35PWKs sticking and they're chrome slides (albeit a much, MUCH better design... )

Anytime, Tim. I used to be the guy that bought the fastest PC, spent hours tweaking it, etc.... Then, I bought my banshee last year, now....PCs and computer networking, etc., are my main job (and side job)...but, these bikes are my passion. I'd rather wrench on bikes than PCs/networks anyday....

It's probably a good idea to get a clymers, learn how to dissasemble, clean and reassemble your carbs. Also...since there's two of them...they need to be synchronized too... They're really not that difficult to figure out, and your own "tool time" with them will be an invaluable experience.... You need a good, small engine compression tester. I personally like Snap On, but...they're high dollar. Craftsman make a nice one for very cheap. You should follow the Clymer instructions on how to properly test compression.... Hot engine, one cylinder at a time, throttle held wide open, keep on kicking till it doesn't go up any more basically. Here you go: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?...UseBVCookie=Yes

Don't take this the wrong way....but, just because you are proficient with a welder (wish I was) doesn't mean you know how to properly weld the crank. I'd let Jeff do that as well...and he does it great. He rewelded my hot rods 4mil I bought off him and did a hellva good job. I'd get a dune/play port from Jeff. Drag ports typically are all top end motor. They make the most power, but...the trade off is they do it at a very high RPM and for a very small RPM range. When you're drag racing, you're WOT...so, mid to low end mean nothing. Porting is an art. It's not just about making holes bigger, it's about shape as well..probably more importantly, too. Porting basically changed how the fuel/air is pulled into the motor, and how it gets out. The size/shape of the ports dictate how the power is made, at what RPM and for how long.... What you want it more "usable" power...not just MORE power period!!

I tried it last year, and it shifted worse than with good old tried and true Bel-Ray gearsaver oil. I know my shifter is adjusted properly, as is my clutch...it just didn't shift "like butter" as I was told it would by a Amsoil rep. I'd have to do a search...but I'm pretty sure there is a member on here that is an Amsoil distributor and HE doesn't even use their gear oil, he uses a different brand. That ought to tell you something right there.....

YOu can either gear it lower, (smaller up front or larger out rear)....or stay out of 6th on hills. With just a filter and pipes, 6th gear is a little tough to pull, add going up a hill.... You can probaby do some cheap mods to help pull it a bit better, timing plate and shaved head might help a little...but, 6th gear is steep on a shee.... I had all the bolt ons there are, and on my stock motor last year in sandy trails, it flat out wouldn't pull 6th hardly, and I know I was jetted spot on!

280 is about right...with an air box, depending on if the lid is on or not. I see you drilled it, but...doesn't say if it's drilled on the box or the lid (or both..) at 1700 feet that's prolly about perfect. Yeah, I think the slides are sticking too. get some fine grit sand paper, maybe 400 to 600, lightly wet sand the slides, clean the crap out of them before you put 'em back in.... Lube the throttle housing and cable while you're at it...

Toomey's all the way.

Never used their premix, gear oil is junk.... Sorry.... I don't care how good the oil is, I'll never run leaner than 40:1.... 100:1 just flat out makes me nervous, period.... Part of the oil's job is to coat parts so they don't rust, dry out, etc. I don't care how good they say the oil is....if there's hardly any in there, it just ain't going to protect/stick as it needs to.

I agree....cold water + hot engine =bad things. Take the head and cylinders off, check them for cracks, etc., and have them put on a straight edge and checked for flatness. If you have a flat piece of steel....you can get some 400 grit sandpaper, place the gasket side down on the paper/steel, and move it back and forth in a figure 8 motion, after 10 to 15 seconds, flip it over and look to see if the whole surface is "scuffed up" or if there's uneven spots on it. Then, take the cylinders off, remove the studs and quickly do the same.... It's coolant, no if ands or butts.

If it runs cleanly once it's warmed up off idle, a bigger pilot more than likely won't help... This sounds like a typical worn out engine, lower compression will make it hard to start...but, if the compression isn't unreasonably low, it'll run pretty good once warmed up. Now is the time to run a compression check before it gets too worn out and something lets go.... Has this been getting progressively worse, or just started to happen? My bone stock 96 motor last year was taking more and more kicks to start .... It was at or around 100PSI by end of year, and I built a whole new motor this year...however, I'm sure if I would've freshened it up....it would've ran better and started much easier... If your banshee is properly tuned, it should fire up in one or 2 kicks everytime...sometimes needing choke in colder weather, but....a twin two stroke is very, very easy to fire off....