dajogejr

Yep, you just have to buy different boots that connect the air box to the carb bells. Here you go... http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/...=181&page=1

They are fine carbs indeed, way better design, and light years easier to work on. They will offer a pretty decent power gain, and are much easier to tune and work with. Plus...you don't have to worry about the dreaded stock carb slide sticking with those!!!

Since you only want two stage (on and off, right...not low, high and off) I'd get a rubber push button or something... Sealed, push on....push off. I'd bet Lowes, Home Depot...Pep Boys, etc., would have sumthin...

Yep...sounds good to me! :beer:

Proficiently... Spell check for Chrissakes.... LOL.... J/K.. 2003...We'll just have to agree to disagree if it works or not...I'm fine with that. If it's worked in your experience, it's all good... However, regarding the TORS. I think you'll find more people will positively tell you they are more hassle than what they're worth, and do NOT work the way they're supposed to. I guess that's another thread, though.. Bottom line is...leave it on, take it off. Personal preference based on your own experience and beliefs....I think that's a pretty fair assessment...don't you think? :beer:

PJs are a little harder to tune, but should've worked just fine with your setup... Toomey's are great pipes. My point was if you ran them with drag porting, though...you'd be missing out on some power...that's all. A clutch would react the exact opposite. Going up a hill creates more load, if it was slipping...it would slip more going up a hill...so, it would actually rev quicker...not bog and slower....unless you're grabbing way too much gear way too early...

What are you smoking?

I think most of us agree a lot of races are won at the start... Holeshot and traction are 100% key. ON my old cub motor, I averaged mid 1.8 to low 1.9 on my 60 foot times, probably a .600 to .700 on my reaction time (.500 perfect light) My best run at the 300 ft. sand drag I cut a .530 light, 1.78 60 and 4.7 at the end. That little bit off the line made all the difference....fresh rain, fresh groomed track, and I don't think I could've launched much better....

Mine would be simple... $$$ PIT

Yep, guilty here too....bad, bad idea. That's why I can personally and positively say you wasted your money on a cub with stock carbs and T5s...been there, done that...

Kai... If he has drag porting on T5's and stock carbs, someone should be shot...

Stockers can be bored to 28mm that I know of, Rod. PWK style are the way to go for simplicity and design. I'd go with some 30's to 34's the biggest.... I'll keep my ear out for some good carbs for cheap. See if this guy will sell the carbs only: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=71254 These carbs have your name written all over them....and lethaface is a helluva a guy. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=71055

Everybody seems to say T6's won't work with any porting (guilty myself) but how many have actually tried them? The T6 is a beautiful design, etc. Many builders will tell you mild porting is just fine for T6s...and a few users have reported they are very happy with some light porting and their T6s. Last year I bought T5s for a few reasons, mostly cause they're cheaper and I know they run good, plus...I always planned on going bigger for my motor, which meant the T5s were gonna go away some day, why spend extra on the T6. Get what ever you want...you can always sell what you have and get something else. I think the T5s are a better bang for the buck due to them being cheaper, but I wouldn't rule out a T6 on a stock or stockish motor if the price was right....

Check the WHOLE fuel system. If it runs that good on flat ground (I'm assuming you've done a plug chop) it can't be jetting. I'd check for dirt in the gas tank/fuel valve screen, but more than likely it's cause by a sunken float, improperly set float level or a faulty needle and seat. It should run just as good going up a hill as on flat ground...

Sorry Samdust...but that guy on a 426 can't ride, his tire is bald, or his bike is running like shit. That 426 will eat banshee, it's got every bit of HP your shee has, STOCK, and it weighs 150 or so less lbs. If that 125 rider has good skills, he'll beat you. That bike weighs less than 200 Lbs., and if it's bone stock he's only down a handful of ponies on you.

Don't believe everything you read.... VForce is the king, and everyone is gunning for them. SOME of the top race shops in the country are located in MI, home of Magic Racing. IF these reed cages were that much better...AND Cheaper, you bet your arse that these builders would start buying them instead. Cheaper HP? Who wouldn't....

Jankab has plenty of experience with turbos on a banshee...and I'm pretty sure he's used stock carbs and found them to work best. And...he's had countless hours and days of dyno time as well as countless pipe, intake and carb combinations at his disposal to try. Going from 1500 to 5000 feet with a turbo is asking for trouble... Also...no one jet will suffice for that huge elevation change. I gave advice to someone else about how I would handle that....it's called a powerjet... It acts like an externally adjustable main jet, simple to add and use. Basically, I'd jet the bike for 1500 feet with a few turns out on the power jet, then....as you climb, turn the power jets a little at a time to lean it out... If you're jetted spot on for 1500 feet, it'll be PIG RICH by the time you get to 5000....

It would only be an opinion if it was never tested, used...etc. On my own personal bike as well as a couple others I've worked on, it will NOT suck coolant back into the tank. I know...I know.... I fully understand the cooling system and how it is supposed to work. However, in my experience, not opinion, it does not work as said or designed...

That and a good sig/avatar...

Josh...if you listed ALL the mods done to it, as well as some pics, that would help judge value. As said, they're worth a lot more on the west coast than east coast. Also..if you have the time and patience, parting out via forums and ebay is the way to make money....

Perfect advice by Wes. Get a clymers manual, this is all covered with pictures.... The one arrow is sationary on the case itself, the other is on the end of the arm for your clutch...they are directly below your fuel valve if you were looking down towards the ground, on the engine cases. The arm moves with the cable (This actually engages/disengages the clutch) and the mark on the case itself is stationary....

I've met with and talked to Roger around a dozen times. We still chit chat once in a while, even now that the "season" is over up here. I will go on record as saying Andy can appear cocky in his posts or emails, but...having met him in person...I will say he's a very nice guy. straight forward, will not blow smoke up your ass, etc. Once I get my new motor built and tuned this year, I'm going to take Roger up on an offer to throw some GRR pipes on it to test with 'em and try 'em out. Kinda hard to turn down a kind offer like that. Get a few other builders/pipe makers to offer the same...won't happen. The drag track I go to is almost within spitting distance of Grand River Racing... I'm hoping with Roger and possibly Andy's help this year, I can test the pipes and get their input on tuning for them...since this is my first round going to alky... The good thing is...the track we test and tune at normally isn't too busy and you can easily get 20 to 30 runs in... If you're gonna come on an open forum and bash someone or some builder, back it up with facts, not opinions and heresay... By the way....Merry Christmas all... :beer:

And YFZ450 pipes now, too!!! http://www.toomey.com/

I just use the el cheapo UPP black intakes. However, since I'm prettying my bike up this year...and builiding a new motor drain plug up....I think I'll be looking into some billet intakes with the built in crossover.... I'll need bigger intakes, going from 35's to 39's...

10 mil...coming up soon!!! :thumbsup: