dajogejr

25 pilots should be spot on... make sure you didn't swap float bowls. Make sure the slides are in the right carbs (cutout facing towards the back)

What is nice about the Trinity pipes is Stainless Steel... RNBRAD runs trinitys, I'm sure he'll chime in. He's said time and time again they are comparable in performance to T5s... I don't think you can go wrong with either pipe...

I think a good dune port and 4 mil stroker crank is a great, great combo. Just get the cylinders ported for the crank...and don't go TOO large on the carbs or pipes. T5s or Trinitys and a pair of 33PWKs would probably one fun ass bike to ride!!

Looking for a set of Big Bore, inframe shearer pipes....Chrome would be nice, but if the price is right.... Have a bunch of stuff to swap or cash if interested... 10 row haulers on rims, (pics in for sale section) +6 over stock carrier style with carrier Ice tires rears with new chisel pics on rims (Shaved Holeshot XCRs) Stock front tires on rims with cold cutters Let me know...

Sorry...don't know why I didn't get an email notification for your post, riderboy... I still have them. A couple interested, no one showing me the green backs. My bottom dollar is the price listed. 250 shipped via Fed Ex with tracking number, or 225 local pickup, and I'm in South East Mich., north of Detroit. Don't need the money, I don't need my new paddles until the season starts again in 4 + months...so I can sit on 'em if I have to. No offense...but the bottom line is listed. Thanks!!

Glad to hear... I thought I was building a BIG 10 mil cub for pretty cheap myself...turns out it's not gonna be quite as cheap as I thought, but still worth it. It's never as cheap as you think it's gonna be...huh? Good luck with that bike...I wish I still had my old 85 around, it was a total blast to ride!!!

Ebay, classified here and Planetsand.com classified. I just let my cubs and 4 mil go for a steal!!!

Wrongo.... I had a 421 cub, T5 pipes and stock carbs. Short of buying a 1 into 2 carb and 2 into 1 pipe, that's about as choked down you can make a cub, and it was still a TERRIBLE trail bike. And I'm talking UP Michigan trails, wide open, 2 car widths wide...etc. Either Red or JT said it best, all kinds of the wrong kind of power. Just as your getting on the pipe and pulling...smack...locking up the binders...truly no fun. I'll even go as far to say that a cub is better for 75% or better drag racing, 25% duning... I'm building a 10 mil cub because I simply like going fast in the parking lot at the dunes....LOL...(nice one JT...) Yeah, do a search. Plenty have tried to detune them, etc., but you're wasting money, in that case get a good dune port on stockers...as said.

Good point... Sorry...Broke... Sarcasm isn't always best understood reading on a forum... :yelrotflmao:

Those carbs are too big for stock porting. You'd almost be better off selling one of them, and getting a 1 into 2 carb setup using the single 35. On stock porting, in my opinion, anything bigger than a 28mm is too big.

They're called a Cheetah. Cub is the little bro w/o powervalves, Cheetahs are nearly the same castings/port timing but with a power valve. Cubs are nice, you can use your reed cages, head, etc. off the banshee motor. Cheetah's require different reed cages, different head, etc. And...they are more money for the PV Cheetah CYlinders....

Odd... I talked to him on the phone for about 20 minutes yesterday morning....

I think they'd be burned out for porting... It can take 10 to 20 hours to port a motor correctly... Unless I read that page wrong, Stu, it looks like those tools are for polishing and shaping gems or jewels... (I had to double take that page, they looked like dental drills for a second...LOL ) Maybe an engine builder can chime in...but, to me they just don't look heavy duty enough!! I bet they'd be ok for just farting around in the garage... BTW...how's that LT build going?

If your factory crank is trued and welded, 18 or 19 cc domes. Just tell whomever they are from that you are putting a 4 mil crank in (still a waste, IMO). Factory cranks are weak without having them welded, so...if it's a stock crank unwelded, go 20 or 21cc domes. More compression than that will cause the bottom end to wear/separate even quicker. You WILL have to get the porting matched up for the cylinder...or else it won't run as well as it can, probably not much better than it is now, and even still, you're only looking at a 7% increase in power or so. I'm not impressed at all with Duncan's port work, any of it...so, hard to say what size carbs, but...I think 35PWKs would be a good start. Don't forget, bigger intakes, new pod filters...new throttle cable if your TORS is still on the bike, (if you removed the TORS, it uses that cable)...

Wow...a lot of questions. Ok, don't waste your money on boring your cylinders... Boring them .080 would be completely usesless. You read people using blaster pistons that have big bore sleeves installed...or by a 68mm 4 mil cub cylinder. Since you're on limited funds, rule that out... There are a few ways to accomplish this. Either way, you MUST get your stock head cut or aftermarket domes cut for a stroker motor. If you want to use your stock pistons you must get a spacer plate that goes between the cylinders and the cases. Not the best idea, prone to air leaks...etc. You can buy 795 series pistons from Wiseco...and NOT run a spacer plate...but as said, you still have to have either stroker domes or the stock head cut. The stock port timing will be messed up ...even though you have "Duncan" Drag porting... To be honest, I think you're wasting your money...you already have a mismatched motor as is. Drag porting on stock carbs is worthless. Reed Spacers are worthless unless you go bigger carbs, the only thing they're good for is larger carbs so the float bowl drain plug clears the clutch arm. a 4 mil crank will probably net you a 7% increase or so....You didn't mention a few things, either: 1. What kind of riding you do, and where? 2. What kind of pipes you have... If all you want to do is drag race, get bigger carbs, drag style pipes... But having a drag port with stock carbs and not drag style pipes is really non-productive...

21mm is the correct setting for stock carb floats, you measure from the gasket surface (no gasket) to the top of the float with the carb tipped upside down. Honestly, flip it upside down, the flat part on the bottom of the floats should be level...that's good enough. Take some compressed air and blow those carbs out...removing all jets and brass beforehand. Then...take some copper speaker wires, and poke/clean around the holes the jets go in, and needle and seat.... That should square you up again.

I agree...especially if you're still running the stock airbox and lid. If you remove the lid and put an aftermarket filter in, maybe 27.5....but you won't need 30's unless you completely remove the airbox, even then it's iffy... you can always switch spark plug leads from the coil to see if it follows the plug wire. Changing the main jet should have no effect on if the cylinder hits on idle/startup or not. I'd go completely through each carb, one at a time to make sure there is no gunk and the float are set correctly!!

Just goes to show you no two bikes are the same. You should end up with a 290 to 300 main in that bike with those mods and that elevation. However... If you are in fact doing the plug chop correctly, good for you...for getting it correct yourself. Check the float level to make sure it's not flooding with too much gas... Check all the electrical as said. Hate to say it...but, check compression as well...just to be safe....

V Paddles will never hook like a straight paddle, they will turn better...that's the trade off. 8 paddle haulers will be fine for your setup...

Easy way to tell. Put brand new plugs in, ride it till it starts to run like crap. Remove those plugs and put brand new ones in, if it instantly starts running perfect again, then it is loading up the plugs. If not...you have a problem elsewhere... Reddish brown? No...should be a tan or light cardboard color. I think you should leave the 300 main in...In my opinion... Put the air screw .5 turns out once it's warmed up fully. Then go 1.0 turns out, wait 20 seconds for the new adjustment to take place...ride it again. You want the highest idle possible by adjusting the air screws.... Less than 1 turn out, you need bigger pilots. More than 2.5 turns out, smaller pilots. I'd probably say with the airbox and no lid, you could use either the stock or 27.5 pilots...

Going towards the blunt end leans it out, toward the pointy end richens it up. When the bike starts running bad, do you start out with new plugs? When it runs bad, how do the plugs look immediately after? Compression seems just about right, albeit a little high if it's a stock head. Time for a leak down test to make sure you don't have an air leak somewhere...although, doubt it...gotta check. Leak down test it cold and warm if you can (yeah, I know...don't burn your hands on the pipes taking 'em off). If the motor is sealed properly, it's either bad electrical somewhere, or...poorly jetted in one spot or another...and it's loading up the plugs from being run in that spot. But you said it runs good for 1/2 hour....that sounds like electrical to me.... If two CDIs both did the same thing, I'd eliminate that. However, I've heard of Stator's ohming properly...but being bad... For a cheap thrill, replace the spark plug end caps with some NGK ones, I think they're only 5 to 7 bucks a piece. Stock coils are known for having bad caps....

Don't waste your money on a "Drag Ported" cub....just get it cleaned up, that's all you need. Call Jeff @FAST...he normally stocks it all. There are a few things you need to consider if buying a cub. Stud Extenders for the rear studs Water Jacket Plugs Properly cut domes for the larger stroke/bore Getting the crank Re-Welded properly A good maxload or TZ bearing on the PTO side of the crank New Crank Seals...big bore base gaskets...etc. There are a ton of little items you'll need....Jeff will go over all these in detail with you on the phone...

I think the Vitos needle are much like the Dynoport, longer, 6 grooves instead of stock 5. Put the needle in the 4 clip down from the blunt end. Jet kits are a joke.... With the lid off, as long as the porting isn't too drastic, 300 main is about right, especially not that it's getting colder. Try a 27.5 pilot jet. Time to check the odd ball things, new plugs, fresh gas. Cleaned out carbs. Then check electrics....OHM the stator and coil, if you can, swap CDIs with a friend. Most of the time, if a bike runs fine until it gets really hot...it's electrical. make sure the vent in your gas cap is working too (Check ball). No dirt in the screens for the fuel valve... If ALL of that checks out, time to do a compression and leak down test to check the internals....

Gonna be smoking more than that...real soon...LOL. Used to be a pack a day, 2 packs if beers/drinks were involved on the weekends...etc. Just quit Sunday...had 4 last night due to Vodka and OJ...still trying to quit. Figure a pack a day is 5.00, or 35.00 a week, or 140 or so a month. Yep...140 a month is a bike payment...LOL...

Hey...cam. Good to see you here over on the HQ... Wealth of knowledge from this guy...boys and girls. I agree. I put mine together with T5s and stock carbs...on a budget...and it did run hard. My stock carbs liked to stick a little however, and they were clean as the dickens. I think it's just because of all the more velocity/vacuum created by these cylinders, bigger stroke and bigger pistons. Even with good shifting components, adjusted properly, and a new billet basket, inner and outer and 6 HD springs, it still shifted like shit. I know it costs even more money, but you're eventually going to want a dunable override and a lockup as well. YOu're making serious power from a cub....and as said, the weaker links will surface soon. I ran my 421 cub on a stock petcock and 35PWks...never ran out of gas...