dajogejr

My thoughts exactly. Stick with a stock crank, and get it welded. Normally, you can score a good used crank for 75 to 125 bucks. Have the cylinders measured by a quality machinist. If they can be safely both bored even, up to .080 over...then no worries. If they're damaged beyond repair...there are always cylinders for sale on ebay or here on the forum. I would never buy a set of "Ported" cylinders off ebay...but stockers I would. I'd try to work with a board member first. If you are on a budget, do NOT get a 4 mil stroke crank. It requires different pistons or a spacer plate, the cylinder head to be re-machined and the porting will have to be matched. It's more than just a drop in crank. Washburn mean a cylinder spacer...NOT reed spacers...

There are three pinned articles on top of the Jetting and Exhaust forum. They explain what jetting does at different stages in the throttle, etc. None of us can promise you will or won't have to move your needle...more than likely not, but...if you're gonna do something, do it right. The jetting and carb FAQ are an invaluable learning tool....which you should read first!!

If you rode it for three hours like that, WIDE OPEN all the time....you might have. However, because of your last post (which...you should've kept all this in instead of creating a new one) it didn't sound like you hit 4-6 very often, that tells me you weren't WOT all the time. So...you still have a problem elsewhere, just like I said in this post: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=71038

Define a little while... Also, FMF is full of shit. You have a problem somewhere else. Any piped and pod filtered shee I've ever worked on was always over 300, I'm in MI...roughly 500 to 800 feet above sea level, normal riding temps 65 to 85 degrees...etc. I've jetted T5s, FMFs, Paul Turner....they all ended up with 320 to 340. What I've found FMF does like is a fatter pilot than stock, normally a 27.5, one up from the stock 25...sometimes they even like a 30. I promise if you leave a 260 in there with pod filters and those pipes you will burn that motor down!!

No one can tell you with 100% certainty. Since you only want to run pump gas, start with .020 and go from there.... Too many variables to give you a 100% clear answer....you can always take more off. You're missing the main point. Running more compression increases your need for higher octane, it also puts more strain on the bottom end of your motor, more specifically your crank.. With proper squish clearance and jetting, you shouldn't need to run engine ice. Engine Ice also won't save you from burning up your motor if it isn't jetted correctly or fed enough octane...

Yep, it ain't a 95-96 either!!!

Dirty carbs, too much oil in your gas...or...a seal inside starting to go. I'd completely disassemble the carbs and clean them inside out. Remove them one at a time so you don't accidentally swap slides or float bowls. Then, adjust the air screws identically. Jeff @ FAST racing sells a tool that will help you syncronize your carbs identically. Carbs out of sync can cause more smoke out of one tail pipe than the other as well... What kind of oil are you using, and at what ratio? If this doesn't sort it out, get a quality compression tester and see where the PSI is at.

Something else is wrong. Carb slides are backwards, carb bowls are switched, choke tube is missing. You should be over 300 on the main jet at or near sea level, no air box, pipes and K&N filters. Or...the TORS isn't completely disconnected. 220 or 260 on that bike is lean, trust me. I'd double check the carbs, then TORS...then possibly an air leak. Did you mess with the timing at all?

Those mains have NOTHING to do with off idle response down low. That is all pilot jet/air screw. Please check the plugs, too...It may feel like it's running great, but...if it's lean you're risking premature failure!! Here's a plug chop method, and this checks the MAIN jet only.... http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

So...I spit my Pepsi on it....

I'd rather have the CPIs you have now. However, Borrink makes good stuff...so, since he is personally selling them.... I wish someone would loan me a set to dyno with on my cub, I'd love to do a back to back comparison....

I'd be double checking my compression, depending on your altitude... Stock timing anywhere near sea level, you're going to need at least 50/50 race/pump gas if not 100% race fuel with 18cc domes, even if you had a WIDE OPEN drag port, I still don't see that dropping the static compression to a range I'd feel comfortable running 93 octane in. And...you advanced your timing as well. Check that compression pronto!! However, if you're above...say, 3000 or 4000 ft, then I'd think about it.... Unless you're going to choke it down with a 2 into 1 pipe and 1 into 2 carb, etc., then you're simply not going to get much more bottom out of it....period. Dune porting hits a little higher in the RPMs, just not as high as a drag port. Since you've got 18cc domes and a timing advance...porting, pipe(s) and carbs are all that's left to get more bottom....

Oatmeal cream pie. I about pissed myself when he told me that....that's great!! Same ol', bro...just workin'.

A stroker crank will give you a little more torque and HP, so...yes it would make it easier to ride. It will NEVER be four stroke easy to ride, especially a big, torquey 4 poke like the Rappy. What kind of pipes are on there now? There's plenty you can do to make it easier to ride. Compression, timing, gearing, etc....but, it'll never be a 4 stroke!!

Still around...just nothing new since us MI boys won't be seeing any sand soon...at least in this state...

You two both owe me a new keyboard....that's funny shit right there, I don't care who you are....

thanks, Trav. My RDZ/Shearer inframes still get the job done very well, and I was lucky enough to get them in Show Chrome.... Might think about GRR end of next year's season, though...

Fat Boy Treats are in the mail for all of us....

C'mon guys...that thing weighs at least .5 lbs half full, get rid of her and save the weight...LOL... :yelrotflmao:

While I'm not causing problems, my bike has Never sucked any coolant/water/engine ice out of the overflow bottle, and I even relocated it to the front of the frame since the factory design traps coolant in the line run under the gas tank. I didn't have to add coolant all year to my bike, only when I drained the distilled water out of it and mixed 50/50 coolant/water since it gets below freezing here in MI. So...if it does in fact suck it back from the overflow, it has yet to do that on mine in the two years I've owned it. Not saying the statement is incorrect, just stating my own experiences. My CRs never had an over flow, either.... :beer:

You really need to know the pilot size. I'd bet they are stockers (25)..and they should be ok. Try turning the air screws in all the way, back them out .5 turns each. Then....wait 20 seconds for the adjustment to take effect, go for a ride. (make sure the bike is fully warmed up) Since it's getting cold out my mid-west brother, might be time to bump up the main a size or two. If your bike runs best with less than 1 turn out on the airscrew, you need a bigger pilot. With your mods, though...I think stock pilot will be fine.

I think your safe with 320s if you keep the airbox w/o lid If you take off the airbox, you could very easily be in the 350 or 360 range, depending on how much fuel Jeff's dune port likes. In the future, I think a pair of 28 or 33PWKs will really compliment that package!

Compression AND a leak down test. Compression test alone will not check for leaks in the crankcase or crank seals. Go from there...

Agree... Open up the airbox if you don't mud it too often. Add a lightened flywheel and timing plate...and you'll have a helluva fun bike to ride on.