dajogejr

I agree. Figure you're gonna pay 150 to 250 for OEM Jugs. 250 to 400 for a good dune port, reputable builder.... So...yeah, good deal as said above....

Same principal....and there are plenty of power jets that work before 7/8 throttle...it all depends on the lenght of the tube protruding into the bell. I'd bet the tube design in the "Dial a Jet" is such it just mistifies the mixture...better so than a standard power jet. Same/similar principal as the DM Super Jet....not just a spray of fuel, more like a mist. Good point...blue.

Get the Dave Moore power jets. I have a few buddies running these, and they like them a whole lot better than the other guys.... http://www.davemooreracing.com/super_jet.php You're going to have to tune you main in lean at the lower elevation...and use the power jet to accommodate the lower altitude by opening it up. You can close at higher altitude (did I get that right OJ?? LOL) Then....when it gets colder out, open it some more...

Oh no...I got a 10 mil ready to go. I've been looking for a deal on inframe big bore, seems Matt's not making any....and no one wants to part with any.... I've literally got everything else to build my bike... Thanks though...

I hear if you send him an evnelope with a 5 dollar bill and a moon pie it will get to you quicker....LOL... :biggrin:

Man....why couldn't those pipes be inframes.... Good luck...free bumpski...

Buddy had it done on his Rev Snowmobile, looks great....and has lasted the last few years without issue at all....

I'd think Oringing the bottom of the jug would make setting squish just a bit tougher, though....

They're a must for alky, Stu. Due to the amount of fuel that must be stuffed into the cylinders. There's a lot of variables....the nozzle length, etc...which effects how/when they come on. Keep in mind, you need some real vacuum to pull fuel from it...so, mostly 1/2 to full throttle. I had them on my 35PWKs on gas last year for my cub. I planned on using my 35's for alky, but....I'm going with a fuel pump setup on 39's instead. No worries about running bowls dry or out of alky. Plus, I'm going with a big motor, so..bigger carbs. The only time I opened them up was at the dunes last year, because it was closing weekend and much colder then the rest of the time I rode my bike. They worked just fine!!! But like anything...tuning tuning tuning!!!!

Basically, You tap into the float bowl with a fuel line, and you have a brass type externally adjustable jet that you drill your carb for. You open the valve on this jet, and it increases fuel flowing into the carb based on the intake vacuum.... So...instead of taking the bowl off, you open or close the jet to give the bike more or less fuel. They're really not needed on gas setup, unless you ride in extreme altitudes or climates frequently. For the alcohol burning crowd, they're pretty much a must.

Just hit Vito's...1/2 hour north of metro-detroit, about 105 bucks I think for a new Ricky Stator flywheel.

I agree...the HRC really wakes that little motor up. Is this an 05 or older R, or an 06 or 07? The newer models are actually faster than the older, too...the got more of the 450 dirt bike parts on 'em. Not sure exactly what...but my buddy is a R freak, and he was telling me the 04 an 05 models were nothing like the bike, the 06 and 07 damn near are the bike motor...etc.

Yep...well said. I worked on jmkampala's bike at his house, he's got like 5 or 6 carbs (stockers) there now.... He said the one side was leaking, and the float was perfect. There was a wear ring around the rubberized part of the needle. Got a needle in there that looked much better, no leaks. Trav...try brake clean and compressed air, as said....

27.5 pilots (one up from stock) Because it's cold out...start with 360 mains. Look at your plugs. Elevation in Buffalo is a big higher than sea level, isn't it??

No offense, but if you're gonna flat track that bike, stay away from rocket pipes. You will be simply moving around on that bike too much, and since you said you're 240...I imagine you're about 6 foot tall or so...as I am. I demo'd a set of rockets in 05...absolutely hated them...and the number 1 reason was because I kept smacking my knees. You're gonna be moving around on that bike quite a bit, you might want to rethink that choice. wallrat is 100% right. You're gonna have to get your head cut....the only figure I can give you is depending on the port job, you could be anywhere from high 50s to low 70s....

Agreed 100%. Free HP, if only a few....and I already had it stripped down 100% for my 4 mil anyways. A big bore gasket, sharpie marker and a dremel....20 minutes and you're done. Just make sure it's smooth, but NOT polished.

Maybe if you double or triple your HP from a stock motor....it ain't gonna shift.... But you can't call the pipes themselves the culprit. Once you start pushing some real power, some shifting aid is needed... Any serious drag guy and the more serious duners are putting lockup and overrides in their bikes. After trying to shift my 421 cub on a stock tranny, it sucked...period. But my motor put out close to 3 times the HP of a stock bike....

Go back to page 1, post 12.... Jim is JMkampala.... in HIS particular setup, where he hacked the the sides and bottom of the airbox off....he's actually using the front portion of the stock airbox, and is keeping the little guides that slide onto the nubs. He has pictures on page 1 posted already... Sorry to confuse....

18 inch tires on a four stroke? He's probably gonna get you out of the hole... If your porting is any good, by third you should be pulling on him pretty good. Launch in second....

Actually...there's no stress on the rubber intakes because in Jim's setup...he is still using the factory nubs for the airbox...the weight rests on them..(Seen it in person) However....I'll still run Dual K&Ns....I think it's a much nicer and cleaner looking setup personally!!!

WELD your stock crank....18cc is quite a bit of a jump in compression.... I'd try it with stock gearing first. If it spins the tires too much, go up one on the front...

Do a search.... No offense, but people are going to tell you tractor oil, synthetic, non-synthetic, ATF fluid, gerbil pooh, etc. Everyone has their favorite type/brand/weight of gear oil to run in the tranny....

True that!!! I honestly don't think it's anything major due to the abuse and time he's put on it since then. Then again...no one said a failing motor part will come unglued tomorrow or a year from tomorrow.... I'd do the easy checks first, then dig into the motor and checking clearances...

Think of an engine builder as a world famous chef... They're not giving up their secrets...and it's something they...as well as their family or predecessor took years perfecting. You can get the directions how to bake a cake on the back of the box, but...the career chefs know there's a lot more to it than that....

Yeah...but his is coming from the left side... I'd start with the easy stuff. Get a flywheel puller, pull that and the stator plate off, check it all out.