dajogejr

I'd just cut away the the bars, leave the hole for the shifter. That allows plenty of access to the front sprocket.

It is a timing plate (or offset flywheel key) that advances the timing on the bike an additional 4 degrees before top dead center (BTDC) It helps pick up some bottom and mid range that a banshee is not very well known for. It will sacrifice a tad on top, but....that tad you will probably never ever notice.

First things first. What is your elevation? Second, did you test it cold or warm? Did you hold the throttle wide open? Did you keep on kicking and kicking until it didn't go up anymore? Next...a machine shop will tell you how much it needs to be bored...have them mic (measure) the cylinders...

I know it's early, and I drank my share of beer last night watching UFC....but WTF does this mean? carbs were sent to granger to horn racing engines for setup, 2 degree key? I know they made 'em in 4 and 7...but 2??? Yeah, this is way too serious a race machine for me, beginners need not apply...

That pickup coil has nothing to do with your lights... If it's bogging, I'd turn the air screws OUT....to lean out the bottom off idle response. You adjusted it correctly, using the case split as the marker, moving it clockwise is correct...just wanted to be sure. Just for giggle, set it back to 0, see if it's better. Something else is wrong, a simple 4 degree timing advance should not require a jetting change if you were spot on before...and it should give MORE low end, not make it bog..

Keep the squish in the low to mid 40's, you'll be fine. I ran 185PSI and a SHIT TON of timing on my bike, Jer...and 110 octane was fine. As long as you're doing it all right, cubs love compression and timing.

I don't know what you're talkin bout Willis. You just call me to tell a joke and butter me up....then tell me the real news...LOL. :yelrotflmao: Honestly...yeah, shit happens to all of us, period. If it didn't, it wouldn't be life. We've all had things come up, etc. Honesty and communication will solve just about anything, period. By the way....I haven't heard any new, good ones...Jeff....WTF is that all about? I finally subscribed to Maxim, been a while since I read it. Went straight for the joke page. Believe it or not....heard every SINGLE one of 'em. But damn...Christina Aguillera is HOT!!!! LOL.....

that only works on paper and in theory... Get them together and go find out.... Either bike could beat either, depending on how well it's tuned in, rider weight and rider skill.... Better riders beat better bikes all day long...

With a cub, do it right the first time. Get a dunable override and lockup clutch. Yes, in theory you can still down shift and ride the tranny as normal. However, I wouldn't use the motor to slow the bike down...but that's just me. The gears themselves are cut the same as a standard override, the drum is cut/welded a little different, and they use springs on the shift shaft/forks... Several on here have used the dunable with no issues...I still want to see how it's gonna hold up to my 10 mil personally. I know loco runs a redline dunable override on his 4 and 10 mil if I'm not mistaken, working just fine for him. I am just a tad skeptical on them, until I actually get mine installed and it proves itself! I can tell you my 4 mil cub with a stock tranny and stock clutch absolutely sucked to shift. Motor ran great, but at the strip or the dunes, under WOT, it hardly ever shifted. And I let 4 or 5 people ride my bike and they said the same exact thing...."how do you shift this thing?"... case in point.

Magic Racing in MI too...

Typically yes.... However, there are more factors involved. Intake, carb size, port work/layout/durations, and probably the most important one, exhaust pipe type.

They are not pressed in, and will come right out.

Are you sure you advanced it 4, and not retard it 4? Flywheel/key lined up and tightened properly? Air gap checked?

I wish...LOL. When I went through my receipts for last year and what I spent @ FAST racing, believe me....a commission or two would've been nice. Although, he does call me up from time to time for a good joke...I guess that accounts for something. Speaking of....you're a Passion guy...see if Jim needs a sales rep.... :yelrotflmao:

Oh no you don't....you're not gonna deny me my commission on this one...I posted it first. Put the FBTs in the mail already.... :yelrotflmao:

imageshack.us

Yep...that was pretty much my point in the very beginning. If you look at all his threads, particularly the ones where he is the dyno queen of quads, it always turns to "Mustang on a dyno this, car dyno that"... All I said was...uh...um...yeah, ok....what about the banshee being on a dyno? Then....he wadded his panties....played keyboard commando, forum bruiser, Internet tough guy....then right back to car dyno this, car dyno that. That's it, I'm changing this thread too. I played High School Football....and basket ball and baseball. I got cut from the chess team...but made up for it by taking a bronze in the math Olympics. Then...NYUK, Firehead, Big Red and I went and joined the circus doing nightly shows as the "2 foot cock" circus freak....chicks dug it. NYUK was the midget that dressed up as a clown, and carried that huge shovel and bucket around. Firehead Was the Joe Dirt look alike, mullet, lamb chops and all...who gave cute girls an extra 2 minutes on the merry go round.... Big Red handled the BB machine gun shooting range...and to this day is the only man who can completely shoot out that red start with either hand, chugging a beer and dealing a deck of cards. All that is about as relevant as his car/dyno ramblings....but not quite as entertaining as he boo hoo hoo, poor me I get picked on.

On my 4 mil cub, I ran 48 pilots, CEL needle mid clip, 150 mains and it ripped. Straight race gas.... Just a clean up port, near sea level....110 octane race gas. I think 185 main would be WAY fat....

I think he ran out of Crayola Crayons, back to the dollar store for mommy and daddy... That dickbag will be posting again soon...some stupid question like here's what I found out from dyno tuning two different mustangs. :shoothead:

Chewy...I need you to get up here and fix the hyperdrive.

Two weeks to respond to my comment...yep, that's typical...

You're right...I keep having a cub mindset. They typically like a larger main but smaller pilot... I ran 48's in my 421 cub and it was probably still a hair rich. Either way, I don't think his jetting is WAY off the chart, I think he's got electrical issues....especially popping on top. I thought I read in another one of his posts, his bike will stop running, if he unplugs his CDI and plugs a buddies in, it fires right up....

Very nice explanation, Greg.... I would add: Unless you get a steal on parts for a 7, build a 10 mil. It's the same price....same work. I'd also add be prepared to do the WHOLE bike. It is not a drop in motor. I'm talking longer swingarm, dunable override and lockup clutch. I only had a 4 mil on gas last year, my tranny and clutch were perfect and adjusted properly and it still shifted like shit. If I would've done my homework, I would've went straight to 10 mil...but, lesson learned...DOLLARS spent. I am in the same boat as you. I picked up a 400EX for trails, poking around...and when my cub blows up...LOL. In my opinion a 400EX is the perfect trail bike....reliable all day long, and fun to ride. I'm not taking ANYTHING away from a 450. I ride with a Ton of them...but since 400's are now more forgotten due to the 450's....you can get a steal on one for the price. If money wasn't an issue, I would pick up a 450 and a big old 4X4....but, I could only buy one, and spending thousands on a second bike wasn't an option. I think you're crossed up with longer stroke vs. longer rod (the 7 mil more reliable....) A longer stroke gives you more HP, torque...etc. A longer rod lessens the rod angle, which in effect lessens the stress of the rod trying to push the pistons through the walls of the cylinder. A longer rod adds reliability, no more power or torque...the longer stroke adds the power. You can always run cut domes and run the pistons up into the head further...or "eek" use a spacer plate. But, if you can...it's always best to get the casting for the stroke you're intending to run... Hope this helps...

I think if you ride in a lot of mud and water, yes. Otherwise, no.. And I like the X Ring style chains better than the Oring...

Steel...all the way. stronger, lasts longer....cheaper too.