dajogejr

Good point.... I'm sure any machinist could make a duplicate pretty easily just by looking at it...without any technical measurement or not... Everyone here is telling you to just buy one, but...hey, what do we all know??? :shrug:

Does it have 5 grooves or 6? If 6, try it 4th groove down from the blunt end. If the middle is blubbery, put it in the 3rd down from the blunt end.

Stock needle? Middle or 2nd clip from the blunt end....depends... 27.5 pilot. 30 is too big, period....even with the air box removed.

We're less than 800 feet above sea level here in MI, ride in 60 to 80 temps.... I've jetted 4 bikes in the last two years with Pod filters and T5 pipes. They ranged from 330 to 350, all stock port, stock motor bikes, one of which was my own personal 96... At higher elevations 300 might be ok...but I think you're safer to start with a 330 and go from there. Here's the way to find out for sure! http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

If you have a angle grinder and cut off wheel..cut a straight slot in them, try a large flat blade screw driver. If not...just grind the head off, as said.

So... You'd just rather steal measurements off a patented design? Nice... Get the lockup from majicmike as said, and he sells an insert that you can modify your own clutch cover... The cover is the expensive part, not the actual lockup plate itself....

If you're anywhere near sea level they won't be... Typically run 330s to 340s with the T5's and pod filters, at or near sea level....60 to 80 degrees. Bigger for colder temps.

Get a clymers and learn how to dissasemble your carbs, you're gonna need to do it one day or another. Second....do a search on pipes here. There are a TON of pipes for the banshee, from mild to wild. Depends on how and where you ride, and what is done to your bike, mod-wise... There is no "one pipe is best" of all pipes...each has it's own up and downsides.... I think if you research a tad, you'll find out what you need to know...

Keep the FMFs for now....and get a set of carbs. Stock carbs bored to 28 will choke the motor (with a drag port) worse than FMFs will. Get a set of 35's at least. If it's a good drag port 39's will work. Then get a good pipe. Shearers are my choice...those bastards rev forever...and the fit and finish of them going up over the air filters is awesome!!!

You are correct....once you start going back with the arm, you will lose traction. That's when different paddles come into play. You need a long enough arm to keep the front end down, but...you need enough paddles to get traction to where you're not slipping too much... Then you have to factor in gearing, rider weight, height of the paddle blade...yeah, it's fun. A lot of trial and error..that's where research comes into play. Read up on other's setup, engine mods, etc., and make your best guess on what you're gonna need. For example. 70 HP on a stock swinger, you'd need 7 or 8 paddles. Any more, would be too much traction (and 70HP on stock swinger is too much anyways...) But...once you go 4 inches out, you could go 8 paddle extreme (taller blades) or 9 to 10 paddle with shorter blades. Then, you could gear it up one in the front (from 14 to 15) so it's not as violent out of the hole, and it would cut down wheel spin. That's just sneak peak of the choices you're gonna have to make!

OH...got it. I would try to grind the head off the rivets on the old one, and drill/tap the hole for the new OEM basket. Good luck!

JT's bike was very fun and Cushy to ride...as said. My bike will rattle your filling loose with the marvins before, only gonna be worse now with no link in the back...sheesh... I've always liked how JT's bike sat/stood!

It's gonna be a good year...Tommy!!!

If you're gonna take the gear off, put it on a new basket. I can't imagine a stock OEM basket from the dealer being much cheaper than an aftermarket billet basket. After market billet baskets come with tapered allen head bolts, you use RED Loctite to fasten them in.

Grind the head off the rivets holding it on, on the basket side. I used an air chisel with a pointy bit to push 'em out. A drill could be used, too...I suppose.

I've bought a few things off of Cascade, top notch, good pricing... Don't go through their polishing room section of the site unless you have a napkin/bib nearby....drool city I tell ya!!!

JT... are these the shocks you had on it when I rode your bike Oct. at the dunes last year? If so...yeah, they're cool. His bike was a lot lower than mine, hooked, launched, carried the front end...very nice!! (I got spoiled by his damn override, hated to get back onto my bike after riding his...LOL)

I know we've discussed this before, Mike...and to each is own for sure. I can only tell you Ev has used these bolts on 4 mil, 7 and 10 mil cubs, cases and all, often pushing 100 to 130 HP...and no issues....

Stainless bolts, if they have a tic or tit on them, will gall without antiseize.... I don't think you're going to get the absolute tightest manufacturing tolerances and Q&A for less than a hundo for a bolt kit. I think you'll be more than happy with the kit, Mark...as long as you're not looking for mirror polished bolts, which...you aren't!!

Mark, My buddy has used both kits for years, on a LOT of bikes. The biggest mistake people make is not using the anti/seize thread sealer. I called Alloyboltz, the lady was a biyatch...and said pay now, within three days we'll get them to the polisher and send them out. I wanted to banshee kits and 1 YFZ kit. They were 160 or so each plus shipping....they didn't cut me a break or anything. I called Fastnerguy....Nice as could be. Said he'd ship for free, (and all these bolts are pretty heavy, mind you) had the bolts ready to go. Paypal'd me an invoice, had the three kits at my door 4 days later. I've got enough PC, Chrome and polished billet on my new bike to where the bolts won't draw any attention, other than the fact they're all allen head, which...looks killer IMO. I think it was 270 or so for all three kits shippped. A little more than half the price of the alloy kits.... Easy decision for me....

While I'll agree that the fasterner guy bolts aren't as polished as the pics for the alloyboltz, they are considerably cheaper. So...pick your poison...I guess...

There's a thread two or three down from here with 1/4 and 1/8 mile times...check that out.

Get Marvins.

Buddy...I am trying to help you. I put a brand new 4 mil cub together from scratch. I was METICULOUS about how I put it together, TWICE.... It still had an air leak. Mine had a casting flaw...top and bottom of the cylinder due to the sand blasting Millenium does to the cubs after they're nikasiled.... Unless your eyes are better than a mic, you're not going to see a few thousands of an inch or so of gap....anywhere. I know what you're saying, trust me... A buddy of mine came over the second time I put my cub together and he watched me, step by step, put it all together. It still ran like absolute shit.... We both scratched our head in amazment...until my buddy put my cylinder on a sanding block then it became perfectly clear the problem. This was a brand new, out of the box cub.... I'm not 100% sure you have an air leak, but you can't be 100% sure you don't until you test it.

190ish for the main, mid 50's for the pilot should get you somewhat close. The 1 into 2's like a very fat main as opposed to a set of them.