dajogejr

Mark...for some reason...M10, 1.25 and 40 or 50mm long is my thought. Will make sure tonight...

You might want to start your own thread for help. It is considered "rude" to hijack another's thread, even though you have a similar problem...you have two different bikes. It will get confusing for both those trying to help...and for the member asking for help.... :thumbsup:

What are all your mods, including airbox/air filter type system. As well as your elevation and riding temps??

Yeah...when I built my cub last year, I said It would always be a duner, drag bike. Now I have a drag bike.... I think a chassis is next for next year...LOL.

see...and all you guys were raising the red flag for me...LOL...

Weather is not looking good, but...that's good for us. Everytime the weather is "Supposed" to be shitty out there, it's ended up being great riding weather. Bob and I may leave early tomorrow AM instead of tonight. I'm still tying my bike up...and had a few issues.... Coming together though...nothing like the midnight hour.

Danny is a great guy to do biz with. He is (was last I talked to him) a machinist by trade. He did my flywheel and shift star a few years ago. Unless he specifically promised you a certain day/date turn around time, relax...he'll get you taken care of.

It does not come with foot peg bolts, or upper J or A Arm bolts. Damn it...the foot peg bolts are M10 X 1.50 or 1.75 pitch... Mark, I was out in the garage till 11:30 last night, gonna be out again. And....I know this because I stripped a foot peg bolt. I've got the tap laying in the pool of parts and tools on my garage floor (controlled mess) I'll try to get you the tap size when I get home....

You and that damn Rino...Jeff...LOL. Yeah, 110 all the way...you could probably throw a tad more timing into it to and play around. Unless you have an all out drag port, your cranking compression won't go that much lower... Did you check squish when you put it back together? (or did Jeff assemble it for you?) That's gotta be a fun ride.

But you wouldn't take that bike on trails.... That's the whole point.

A 2mil plate will keep the timings in check...sort of. SHould be damn close. You use a spacer plate for the crank, 795 series pistons for the long rod...(115 vs. the stock 110mm rod length) Even though you have a 2mil plate to make up for the longer stroke, you'll have to carefully select 2 base gasket thicknesses to make sure everything is in check, deck height, port timing, etc. Honestly, it is better and easier to get stroker domes cut and OEM cylinders ported for a 4 mil long rod crank... A lot of people run a spacer, just asking for air leaks and/or trouble in my book. Your call.

Got one in my 10 mil cub drag bike on alky....virgin trip this weekend at Silver Lake... Will let you know when I get back. I'm using a 1-5 N down dunable override, though.

Yeah, I know I probably sounded like a smug ass in my post, please don't take it that way. But, the truth is...when you're pushing that much power, proper chassis setup is critical to get it to the ground. Improperly done, you'll be looking at the sky the whole time, or frying the tires all day. Neither are very practical...and it's kinda hard not to slam into a tree when your front tires are off the ground...and unable to turn. My first 4 mil cub I had T5 pipes and stock carbs, still needed a +6 swinger....and it turned like a 1 ton diesel pickup truck....like total shit. And it only dyno'd 84.8 HP with those pipes and carbs, bone stock ignition. I think you'd be happy with a good porting job on OEM cylinders for your needs. A reputable builder will easily be able to pull 65 to 75HP out of the stock cylinders...and it will be much more manageable for trails....

Throwing a few pics up might help...

Yep, thanks boys. I was in DAR with you when you bought it last year, JT...I thought I remember it being somwhere's around 2.50 a gallon or so!! I got a gallon of benoil from Magic on the way, will be at my crib today!!

A Cheetah CUB is not good for trails, no power valves.. I think you have some realization to make. A good tuned 4 mil makes 100HP, give or take. A good tuned 10 makes 120HP give or take. Neither are trailworthy, powervalves or not.

When I get back from my dune trip this weekend, I will send you mine for the cost of the tool...via paypal. Once it is returned to me, I will refund that charge minus shipping.... Sound like a deal? Sorry...I don't know you very well, and I have to cover myself. If another senior member on here will vouch for you personally, I will be happy to ship it to you for the cost of shipping alone....

DA Racing is on the left side as you're coming down the road, Appletree is across the street. Is it the same place you got your alky from for the October trip? That's David Alan Racing....

Man...not fair. 85 GT was always my favorite year... However, I'd never give up my new toy that's not even together yet... Best of luck!!

My pleasure... Keep a close eye on your plugs over the next month or so with the temps changing...probably get a bit richer due to warmer weather... Have fun!!!

How far is duneland? Roger....my fat, out of shape ass has every intention of sitting in a hot tub with a bud light every night. However, You can count on us visiting you...and you're welcome to come back to the hotel with us to soak in the tub... I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, boys... Thanks to Bob for coming over and helping with my 400EX while I worked on my shee...one more thing that hopefully won't be delaying the trip!!! Foot pegs (bolt hole stripped, go figure), chain tensioner, carbs, fuel tank, radiator and plastics...and it's ready to fire up. Oh, gotta mount the pipes too...

I think I'm gonna pickup a gallon of alky from Justin, then just bring two 6 gallon cans to the dunes, and get alky at David Allen racing. They price wasn't bad last I checked....and you know it's gotta be fresh for the duners right there!!

Yep...normally electrical rears it's ugly head with heat.... Try removing the plug leads, replace them with NGK. Factory plug caps are known to go bad...and they're about 7 or 8 bucks each to replace them.

You only need them if you're going to larger carbs...so the bottom of the float bowl doesn't hit the clutch arm. They offer no performance gains...

Curve 3 hits 22 degrees early, then tapers off pretty quickly. I used +8 on the plate, curve 3 on my dyna...and had 185PSI. But...I also ran 110 race gas.