dajogejr

I think Jeff @ FAST has a Raptor that will give you a run for the money... A Stockish KFX should be an appetizer at best for you. They can be made quick, but not fast. They are HEAVY....period. Great, easy to ride trail machine...though...lots of torque and fun. A well built 700 Raptor will give you a good race...but you should be able to beat it.

minkia38 also has a set up on ebay as well, T5s....take a look in the online auctions section, take a looksie...

IMO...you're wasting money on a polished, billet pro design you'll never see. Get the Ricky Stator Cast plate for 35 plus shipping...it does the same, without the cost of the bling..

Clean bike, Bada...good luck on the sale!!!

WOW...where the hell ya been stranger??? If you need to get them locally...moto-man in canton, or Magic Racing in Shelby Twp. Otherwise, keep looking here on the forums and/or try ebay. You want something in the lines of a 20, 21 or 22 X 10 X 8 for that bike. 8 or 9 paddle will do you just fine.... Wish I had an extra set, all I have are paddles for my drag bike...

107HP with a lockup and no override...you're never gonna shift that bike, I don't care what else you do... As said...make sure you check the center nut, didn't even think about that...

You're looking to spend way too much cash.... Figure roughly, 1 main jet smaller for every 1000 feet from where you're at now....get the three jet sizes in that range. magicracing.com is where I normally get my jets at...

That's impossible...either it wouldn't go anywhere, or the thing would be bouncing around in there and you'd have a catostropic failure in 4 seconds tops. Do you have an override tranny? If not, no use even discussing this further. Is that bike on gas or alky? Good numbers.... My 4 mil cub on gas didn't shift for shit @ WOT...period. The only mistake I made on that bike was not putting a lockup and override on it, so I could see how fast it really was....not just in each gear separately....

You guys don't have the heart to be drag race only....LOL. I saw a guy on Shearer's website, orange frame, same thing. You'd probably be nervous to run my frame....but lots of people have run cut Tyson frames, too.... I think it looks cool...but, way too much time invested for me.

If you made two passes, I don't think the shift drum is cut wrong...possible bent shift forks. That's pretty much why I decided to stay with a 10 mil. Friend had a 16 or 18 mil twister...lots of issues. Are you using billet or stock cases??

Honestly, Dave...I've always done pilots and needles by feel. Start with the air screws 1/2 turn out, warm the bike up...go for a ride, see how it feels. Turn them out another 1/2 turn, let it sit for 20 seconds for this adjustment to take effect.....ride it again. Keep going till you get the highest idle. If you end up with more than 2.5 turns out on the air screw for the best idle, response...then put a smaller pilot in. Less than .5 turns out....larger pilot.

Thanks... I think so. It was my fault... I used the NOSS head and domes on this bike from my motor last year, 4mil cub on race fuel. It had 185 PSI verified by a snap on gauge.... I threw it on this bike without ever measuring compression...I should have. It squished out at .050...perfect, but...I got the domes cc'd and double checked by a top notch machinist....and they were 16cc domes. WAY too much compression...which explains the o rings popping, backing plugs out...etc. I got a stock head cut and Oringed a few weeks ago, dying to get track time. Starts easier, sounds better...just gotta get to run it, but I'm fairly confident it'll be tuning now (fuel, gearing, air pressure....and practice on a 100% new bike for me)...

Of course it can be done. The more important question is why? Even a high HP, higher compression motor should start pretty easy if the bike is in tune... Now that I got my compression figured out, my bike will start 1st or 2nd kick...every time. If you gotta kick the shit out of your bike, there is something else wrong...

Do you think running a 2 into 1 exhaust is creating a bottleneck? I know it's easier because of 1 turbo to run, but I'd love to see a twin turbo, twin exhaust.....

My buddy had his around 140HP if I remember correctly, and he LIVED at a dyno for a long time. It can happen very easily....

Personal Preference... Some will say yes. But, I always ran 80W gearsaver before I had my lockup/override, so...I can't tell you from personal experience. Many will tell you it'll be just fine...you'll just have to change it more often...

40mm carb for a non ported stock stroke/stock bore cylinder just seems a bit much, that's all..

Is that bike ported??

Thanks a bunch for the parts and a good deal. Less than a week from payment to arrival at my door via snail mail... I appreciate it!!!

And...finally, today's money pit.

Now....the fun begins. 4 mil from 2006. After I got the initial bugs worked out...it was a great duner/drag bike, ran all day every day. Just couldn't shift for shit..... I also Told myself, I'll never build a drag only bike...yeah, right.

Finally...got my home PC fixed. Waiting on a warranty part... This brought back some memories.. 2005, bought it off my buddy. Still Stuck in 2005....had to have at least pipes...LOL

What did he put on your box, Bob? Inflatable Sheep, handle with care. Do Not Puncture box??? :wink:

If you have a roundhouse style swinger, you can attach a metal plate, drill two holes at the edge, and hang it off the rear carrier. I put mine on the plastic behind the seat (ORV sticker and state park pass, both needed for the dunes)

Post up some pics....or PM me your email address, I'll give you mine...and I'll post them up for you. PM Lee, the site admin...ask him to sticky it as well. Sorry...bro...that sucks. I hate chicken shit bastards like that, it's almost worth them getting caught in the act so they get a little swifter justice.... Good luck... There's a lot of KS boys on here, ask Jeff @ FAST (Holton Kansas) to keep an eye out as well...