dajogejr

Clymers manual....any year for any bike when it comes to banshees. It is our Bible...

I think you'll have a good combo because of your weight (lucky bastard...LOL) Lighter riders generally have less arm and more paddles.... You may have to play with your gearing a tooth or two here or there, but I'd start off with stock gearing and launching in second....see how you do...

Yeah, don't think I'm being a dipshit towards you Trav....Just what I saw from the vids. What you're doing on that bike and moto combo, especially being in the heavy hitters club, is very...very impressive!! Have you thought about taking a little weight off your lockup?? Maybe let it slip just a bit out of the hole?

http://www.shearerpipes.com/ He can make you some...

Trav... Any idea what your 60 was? by looking at the video, I think you can get out of the hole just a bit better and go even faster.... What about MPH??

I gotta admit, 131 out of a non-ported min-twister 10 mil is impressive.... Normally, 120ish from a 10 mil cub on alky. I'm thinking I might send my cylinder to Jeff after this season is over to see how much he can tweak out of it. It's always been my belief you're not gonna coax more than 5 to 7 HP out of a cub, (After a clean up port) but...I'd love to be proved wrong.... The Mini-Twisters are cool for the fact not everybody and their brother is running it...

Yep...I agree...and I knew what you meant. Just more of an info post for the others... Yes...we are most definitely a breed of our own... lol I know I'm getting off topic a bit, but...I wouldn't mind building a duner banshee...light port job, and a single carb just to kick it over and ride it. No maintenance every other run...just ride it. I suppose that's why I got my 400EX....but, I want to go a little faster... :biggrin:

\Whoa....where did that come from??

Slower riding, trails, woods....PCs. Faster trails, open fire roads, dunes...T5s. I personally love the sound of T5s...but that's a personal preference....

I'd agree with everything said except for these two points. I can promise you on a drag bike it's more than 5% of a top end loss in power. Also...anyone that is into drag racing, 95% of them run alcohol....and use a power jet to tune fuel needs....on the fly, as the day goes on. Just my experience.... However, I'd agree...not many tune the bike as the day goes on, but if the temps don't change drastically...say, 15 to 25 degrees....the performance degradation is minor if at all...

OH...I definately have to forward that Honda guy this thread now...that's great...LOL...

He's in south east MI. He bought my old T5 pipes last year...

It will make absolutely no difference at all...leave the spacer off. I had spacers for my cub, tried them before and after the reeds...made 0% difference.... Twin carbs are the choice for drag racing, etc... A single carb setup is good for a casual duner, trail bike...but you'll never find a true drag bike running a single carb. Even a large 39 to 41mm carb won't flow what is needed to feed alky to an engine ....which is the way most drag racers go... One carb to tune and one throttle return spring to pull sure does sound nice on a play bike...though...LOL. There are quite a few items out there that in theory do this, or are supposed to do that...and add performance gains. Boost Bottles, reed spacers, Roost Boost, etc... In theory they should perform, in reality they don't. Reed spacers are good for stock cylinders if you're going to larger aftermarket carbs to clear the clutch arm...otherwise....they're just eye candy and one more place a leak could occur...

Since Passion did your porting, ask him about your crank... I can get it rebuilt as well. Ray (minkia38 on here) has just what you're looking for, if you're gonna keep it stock stroke. He has a Hot Rods stoke stroke/rod crank. You will have to have it welded if it was never done, the stock stroke hot rod cranks are not welded from the factory (and the factory welds on the 4 mil are shit, I always get them rewelded...)

Get the steel, you'll be fine. The aluminum is lighter and looks nicer. IN your other paddle post, you said you're on a tight budget....get the steel. If your bike is the same as I remember, it's not like it's an alcohol burning, top fuel sand dragster. You're gonna bounce around Silver lake once or twice a year and have fun... Save the money, get the steel....you'll be fine. Steel are stronger, but they're also noticeably heavier....

You would need a different throttle cable, the one that comes in a TORS removal kit. That will work with the PWKs... You MAY have to buy reed spacers, I'm not sure if the 28PWKs will hit the clutch arm on the left carb or not, I"m sure ToomeyShee can tell you. I know the bigger carbs do, not sure about 28's. You'll need different air filters if you plan on going pod style. You may or may not need new boots if you plan on still using the air box. Again...TS can probably verify...

21cc domes and +4 timing. You can get the TORS removal kit from just about eveywhere....I'd start with site sponsors. Jeff @ FAST....give him a call.. www.farmandsandtoys.com

I think YOUR motor would probably benefit from 33s.... It runs very well for a light port job from A&S. I'm biased a bit, though.... I work on a lot of stock banshee carbs, and they're a pain. PWKs are SO much nicer to work on....and don't have the slide sticking problems that seem to plague the stockers here and there. Dan...your motor is ported, not sure on the extent of that. I'd love to see your bike run with some bigger carbs, I think Dan could easily dyno yours again for comparison. You may move the HP and Torque curve up another 1500 to 2000 RPM, but you'd also pull harder on top. And...since you were flat tracking (I think you said you got out of that)....you want that peak or higher RPM HP. You already know you want it for the dunes. I think your motor would like some 33s.... It wouldn't kill your bottom, and add mid and top. I think you'll get more HP, and better throttle response as well...

I'm gonna disagree to a point. Going to 33 or bigger carbs would be a waste on a stock motor. However, I think a set of 28PWK Keihins would be a nice change. They are much easier to work on and will probably add a little power every where. They are just much, much easier to work with than the stockers, even after you remove the TORS. However...that being said, you're gonna spend a few bills on carbs, new or used. You can spend that money elsewhere. As far as your head.... What elevation are you at, and do you want to run pump gas, race/pump gas mix, or straight race gas? I caution about going too high on the compression unless you're willing to split the cases and have the stock crank trued and welded. Once you put more stress on the bottom end, the stocker is gonna come apart eventually....I've seen them separate on stock motors, let alone motors with more compression....

I think your best bet is to call Ricky Stator. They manufacture their own CDIs, Coils, Stators...etc. I'd bet they could sell you wire end plugs.... I was thinking of doing the same, but....I just got a 96 stator and wiring harness from NYUK, and I already have an Extra CDI....

I think I finally have my bugs worked out....Once I have a full day in at Clarksville, bet your a$$ I'll give you a call, I'd love to see the difference in times....

You gonna start building a cub or what?? Dan's gonna be my jockey, don't any of you others get any ideas...LOL...

You gonna start building a cub or what?? Dan's gonna be my jockey, don't any of you others get any ideas...LOL...

PM BansheeDan. He has a ported shee, weighs about 120LBs. But, I think he runs a stock swinger... You're just like the rest of us...you're gonna have to play with paddles, air pressure, gearing, etc. You're at an advantage being 120lbs. Normally that means a paddle or two more and a shorter swingarm... How long of an arm are you using, what gearing, and is it a stock rear shock...etc??

Well...since you did ask.. It's high on price for our market (MI/OH) I've got a few friends and fellow board members selling similar bikes, close to the same year...and having a helluva time trying to sell them. Our MI economy sucks big time right now. Not sure how bad it is in OH. However, if you're willing to ship it...that bike will go for more on the West Coast...a LOT more. You can have it shipped for probably 400 to 600.... I agree with Bob, you need to detail the hell out of it...spend 20 bucks in armor all, de-greaser...and a brush and go to town...it will make a HUGE difference....