dajogejr

THat is very, very odd. Have you done a leak down test on it? All the ignition check out? Is the carb clean and passageways clear of all debris. I think you have a handle on it...but even in dual carb setups, normally 42 is the very smallest you see people use... I would think with a single carb...it would need to be a hair larger since it's supplying both cans...

My buddy had a turbo shee....and it was finicky as all hell. 5 to 8 degree change in temps, and you're retuning all over again... He ended up selling it to a guy...and he dropped it off at Dan Hull's place for him to check out and complete. With all the very good aftermarket offerings now, cheetahs and cubs, twisters, etc....tuning is simpler and more readily available. The numbers some of those big huge caracal motors are turning out...almost make it hard to think about a turbo. 4 strokes...however, aren't nearly as finicky with turbo. Brad Tyson has had good luck with his YFZ...and he is only perfecting that package better. My bud is in the process of building a YFZ turbo as well. They will give a very well tuned 4 mil cub a run for it's money...

OK...but the other side of that coin is it does take a lot more to score nikasil than it does a cast iron sleeve. It's wear characteristics and hardness are what make it so good... Plenty of guys get cast iron sleeves put in their cub, though....so, there is no right answer. Just better fits for different people...

Split second? NO.... You just can't let the engine slow the bike down, on the gas or on the clutch. This is with a dunable, by the way...with a drag over ride, as said...you pretty much have to come to a crawl to downshift. Honestly, unless you're going to be drag racing most of the time, or at least the majority of the time....wait for an override...

Magic only carries down to a 40... With a 2 into 1 carb...are you SURE you need something that small...normally they're mid to high 40's for those...especially ported. http://www.magicracing.com/Keihin-Pilot-Jets_p_717-62.html

When you tightened the new caps on the carbs....did you hand tighten them...or use a pair of channel locks. They only need to be snug by hand. Use the L Brackets to hold them in place. I've seen them stick before because the caps were too tight..

For 20 bucks.....I'd buy them in a second. Spend another 20 in jets. If you don't like them...big deal. Hold onto them until you get by the mod bug....then put them on. Honestly, 20 bucks is flat out highway robbery....get for now, or later...or both.

In all honesty, Dan....do you think any of Dan's personal motors even stay together long enough to warrant it being worried about? I'm sure his drag bikes are apart after just about every other time out, replacing and checking parts. Some people leave their motors together for years.. Besides, the impeller shaft is steel, for the billet or plastic impeller....if the orings are gonna wear grooves in on the shaft, what difference does it make what the impeller is made out of?? :shrug:

Mikey...I thought it was only 250 or so to have Millenium strip and replate a cylinder with Nikasil.....(as long as no welding or other repairs had to be done, of course....)

That's a 599 starting bid...not reserve. That...seriously, is one beautiful work of art. I guess if you had a dune bike for playing around that had to have it all, this would finish it off nicely. Weight savings alone would be worth it...let alone the strength factor too... WOW>...

Matter of debate no one can give concrete answers to.... The billet impeller is more of an insurance thing...sooner or later the plastic stocker will deteriorate, and then you're screwed....

Yep....and to add... Even with a dunable override, you're not supposed to let the motor slow the bike down. In other words, if you're not on the gas...pull in the clutch. You're not supposed to "backload" the tranny....eventually it will bend the shift forks. It does not change gear ratios....you basically can up shift gears under full throttle without using the clutch....

Don't worry buddy...your surprise is already in the works..... :yelrotflmao:

I think Amsoil is junk. My opinion...I"m entitled to it. Tired of my stock 96 bolt on part bike not shifting well, the amsoil guy told me...try their gear oil for 2 stroke trannys. Everyone I know that has used it says their bikes shift like butter now. Yeah...right.... It shifted worse than it did before, with good old 80W belray gear saver.... Also...that'll be the day I run my premix at 50 or 100:1...I don't care what the bottle says...no thanks...

Actually...it's machwon I'm sure there is a good explanation....as said, every builder is knee deep. However, communication is key.... Try PMing him on the board, I haven't talked to him in a while...but, he normally returned my PMs within a few days... He's a one man crew...so, that's building, ordering, phones....etc. Most of your builders are one man crews...if they're lucky, they have a helper (normally a wife, girlfriend....or for the lucky guys...BOTH...LOL) and busy time is hard to manage....

John and Travis are assets to this board... I sent Travis some leftover stainless bolts for his use, and paid for them immediately. John let me hold off on a stator and wiring harness for a week so I could take back some bottles...LOL. And...By the way, John...I owe you...and you know exactly for what....paybacks are already in the works.... :yelrotflmao:

Never said it was going to screw it up. Here's the analogy I use all the time. You wouldn't go out and buy a 500HP car to go up and down your driveway? A Top Fuel Dragster to go get groceries. Is it possible? Yep... Feasible? Not really... All I'm saying is the engine by design is made to run, in wide open spaces... YAMAHA even says in all of it's literature for the bike...the screaming twin two stroke.... It doesn't say...haul your hay and straw all day, then pull out some tree roots and drag a deer back to camp... I'm not saying the bike can't be lugged out, ridden slow...etc. It can. Other bikes simply do it better....

How much for that size 13 Red Wing boot in the bottom left corner of your picture? That's what I'm talking about...lol This shock makes for a good dune/drag shock. JT"s bike launches nice and sits nice and low...perfect for the strip at the dunes.

If it spins that bad....I wouldn't go messing with the engine. Get tires and gear it properly as said.... You've ridden two strokes before, but this is probably your first without a powervalve, and that makes a big difference in low end...or lack thereof. Honestly...sell it and get a four stroke. If you're riding in that tight and slippery of conditions...you're only going to nueter the shit out of that bike....and by then it's pointless to have a bike designed to scream at 10 or 11,000 RPM...not be lugged at 4 or 5....

http://motorcycleshippers.com/

The override I got from Jeff @ FAST came with instructions how to install it, how to break it in, and what kind/how much fluid to use. ATF Type F...2 quarts.

Correct, inside the pipe, where it slides over the exhaust outlet. Do yourself a favor, put a thin layer of high temp rtv on that oring. A. It'll help seal and B. It'll slide on easier....

They look identical.... They're 415...I think you can get the direct drive cheaper, no? You can get their own die cast cover and lockout plate for 334... http://www.directdrivecnc.net/banqcm.html

You'd get big coin for that bike on the west coast. Try craigslist.com as well...

Pulled hard through 8500 RPM....drag pipes.... :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: