dajogejr

Possibly plugged jet (even though it was just jetted) or it's not getting good/hot enough spark on that side..

Please don't run more oil in your gas than you plan to run on a normal basis... The rings need to seat...that is the most critical part of breaking a two stroke in. Make sure it is fully warmed up before blasting around on it. My advice...heat cycle it twice. recheck the base and head nuts for torque.... Take it for a quick ride, after being fully warmed up....shift through the gears, try not to stay at a set RPM too long....let it cool down. Go beat the piss out of it. I use a thin, THIN coat of two stroke oil in the cylinders when putting them on ONLY to help assemble the pistons/squeezing the rings into the cylinder.... There is no need to go overboard by slathering it with oil or mixing too much in for the "first tank" of gas... I've broken in all my bikes this way, from old to new, cast iron sleeves to nikasil, pump gas, race fuel or methanol..... Hit the power band, it doesn't matter if you change the oil or not because it's in the transmission and has NOTHING to do with breaking the top end of the motor in. that's not to say you shouldn't change tranny fluid on a regular basis due to metal shavings and tiny clutch particles that get in the fluid with use, but it has nothing to do with breaking a top end in.... Also...keep in mind your jetting will slightly change with more/less gas in the oil. People that add more oil to their gas thinking that they're doing their motor a favor really aren't.... More oil per gas leans out your jetting. think about it... Gas with more oil will flow through jets at a slower rate than with less oil in it... I rode with people that never rejetted for winter riding, they just put "more oil in the gas" to be safe, yet they blew up motors every year in the cold....

Talk to Kevin Herr, he'll set you straight.... Off the top, you'll need the porting matched to the stroker crank, the correct pistons, and a cut head or domes (so you don't run a spacer plate, hence...sleeper) Depending on what you plan on doing with it....it varies GREATLY from there. From over ride tranny, lockup clutch, longer arm, etc... IMO...if you want to drag race, lockup clutch and override tranny are the ONLY way to fly. Kevin Gigot makes an lockup clutch that rests underneath a stock cover (more sleeper).... When you make all that power, though...a stock swingarm ain't gonna cut it.... So, it all depends on exactly what you want to do. Motor Wise....porting, head cut and pistons...

Sorry, can't help you on that one. Street bike tranny gearing is WAY different than a normal shee gearing. On Planet Sand, there is a snomo and street bike powered forum. You might want to try asking that question there....

Get carb cleaner, start the bike...and spray it around the intakes, head, and base gaskets. If the motor wants to die out....you found your leak. Check your plugs, see if they look/smell like they have coolant on them...as well. You shouldn't reuse head gaskets, but...if you were in a real tight pinch....

340 mains, 27.5 pilots, needle in middle clip. Should be safely rich... Buy 310 to 350 mains. If it's blubbery in the midrange, drop the needle one clip (leaner) or...in other words, move the clip up one notch towards the blunt end.

Compression test as said, switch the coil wires for the hell of it and see if the problem follows to the other side.

I use the clear hose with nylon reinforcement on mine, no issues...but then again I run WOT for a few seconds, then done. I do keep a stock upper and lower in my tool box at the track just in case, but...no problems at all last year...

Interesting...CSR... Do you have an facts to support that claim? Not doubting you...just would like facts instead of he said/she said.... Very interesting!

So from his house to yours and back you don't think that's just a hair more than 200 bucks???? I used an air chisel to take off the rear kick gaurd mounts, stock pipe mounts and a few other odds and ends. Get a complete chromoly subframe put on....if you can.... 200 is not a bad price at all...

Jaxy... Keep in mind I don't think you run a pair of WIDE paddles on your street bike or subject it to sand, dirt/mud...etc. (if you do...please send a picture)...lol. Sprocket Specialists will make any sprocket you can dream of.... http://www.sprocketspecialists.com/

Trinity makes an awesome head for the banshee, but it's pricey... Dave Noss is a site sponsor, if I were looking for a cool head, I'd be looking to support those that support the site!

Please use the SEARCH....as you can already see, there is no best oil...only everyone's favorite to run. As long as it's not Crisco or Mazola in a can...and mixed at a normal ratio...you'll be fine. Proper jetting and air filter maintenance are more important than oil type, IMO... Coincidentally....I hear Bansh-eman and Firehead like Crisco..."in the can"... I'm not saying there's anything wrong with that...good for them, not my style....just saying...that's what I heard... :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

8 years? post them up...I wanna see 'em. They're 2 bucks a pop, retire those plugs....they've earned it. If the bike is maintained and jetted correctly there's no reason they can't last a few seasons. However.... For 2.00 a pop, I like cheap insurance that I have fresh plugs, and I can keep a constant eye on them to tell me what my motor is doing.

Yep.... Some respected big name builders use them for their bigger, higher HP motors and they have proven to hold better... I think the whole muck issues started with a dyno that was used and it's video....got ugly from there, but I think they kissed and made up in the end. Kevin Gigot is a good guy and very smart... Firehead is the engineer type, as is Kevin... Just like other builders, sometimes they don't see eye to eye on methods or practices....shit happens...

I agree....it's always easiest to get the correct casting for the correct stroke crank you're gonna use. But there are times when you can get a cylinder for a steal, and the extra porting needed is probably cheaper than buying a new cylinder....before I built my 10 mil, I was looking at getting a used 7 mil casting for a pretty good price. However, once I spent the money to have it re-nikasiled and the ports matched, it was more cost effective to spend another 100 bucks and get the 10 mil casting....

I agree with Andy... However, many will port them with fresh nikasil...it's just tougher to grind, and you have to be more careful not to have an "oops" while grinding on them. Here's a little secret...a lot of guys buy 7 mil castings and mill the tops a little for bigger ports on a 4 mil setup, and 10 mil castings for 7 mil, etc.

I have the slingshot lockup on my shelf in the garage, but I have the design that fits under a normal lockout cover...since I already had the finger style lockout. I'll be putting mine on today or tomorrow, but...I won't be able to test it out till the lakes around here refreeze... I've never dyno'd my 10 mil, and I'll have nothing to compare it against till sand season. it's a cool looking device, and others...as said, swear by it's clamping force. We shall see.... He was out of town on a snowmobiling trip, but has always been quick to answer my PMs on Planet Sand.

J... they might not flow right at your altitude...but at or near sea level they work fine... Hell...brady080 has a stock stroke cub that puts out 119 on methanol with 39PWKs....carbs aren't the problem, with a .012 base gasket and the correct pistons, his compression would be sky high... He needs to check the squish and squish band before he goes any further.

It should, because you should measure the squish band as well, not only how much it squishes it, but for how long as well..

Honest to God...the showtime knife itself is worth the 20 bucks plus shipping, 2 years...use it ALL the time, still sharp as all hell. Coupled with over 20 other knives, it's the shit....

I don't know...I got the showtime knives from Ronco and they are bad ass. It took half an hour on the phone at 2 AM to get them, they wanted to sell me just about everything...but, eventually...I got to 'em. Damn good knives....

What bore/stroke combo are you using? Normally, you can get just about any piston you need right from Wiseco, whether it's a banshee OEM type, 795 series or blaster piston... However, as many of you know, the domes on those pistons are different, so...the domes for the head need to be cut accordingly....

Grinding down a 12 point 12 or 13mm wrench is how we ALL tighten the base nuts on a cub motor down.... Checking squish is easy...get some .090 solder with a flux core (it flattens easier), bend it into the spark plug hole, make sure the solder is parallel with the wrist pin, and kick the motor over by hand. Measure the "flattened" portion of the solder with a caliper mic, and post it up. You have to make sure the solder is parallel with the wrist pin, if you measure it front to back (intake to exhaust) the piston rocks just a hair in the cylinder, but enough to throw off the squish measurement.... ON smaller cubs I like to shoot for .040 to .050...

When you build a bike/motor like that, there is nothing banshee spec...it's all custom. Billet crank, big pin connecting rods, billet cases, straight cut gears, billet tranny..... The only similarity between that motor and a banshee is probably the location it mounts to the frame, that's about it... You could probably reuse the dipstick for the tranny oil....LOL.