dajogejr

Well... Now we're beyond beer and talking about moonshine and Everclear... :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

If I'm going to let him ride my bike on water....I better have a LOT OF beer before it even comes off the trailer...it'll be funnier that way....

Ok...but you first.... Wait....let me get my camera first....

Possibly....but if you got every penny you put into your bike back out of it....I'd be buying and selling a lot more.... Including the price of the bike, and top dollar retail on everything on it...I don't think it'd be more than 20K...and he won't get more than 6 to 8K...if he's lucky. It's a nice bike, but full blown blinged out dragsters for for 5 to 8 K....his bike isn't even close to that.... 26K he's smoking crack....period. No to mention, I'd NEVER buy a bike that has a spark plug lock on it....hello....detonation, melt a top end much.... He does have Trinity everything on that bike, so I'm sure the retail on everything is way up there price-wise...

Yeah, I haven't dug grooves in concrete in a long time....could always give that a shot...huh?? LOL

At that price, I don't blame you. Might want to see if a site sponsor could stick some in an envelope and send you some...that's highway robbery....

My opinion you're wasting your time running that worked over of a motor with an airbox and lid no less, and stock carbs. 350 mains to start...but it's gonna be hard to jet a ported motor choking it up that much, to be honest.

Fix and change one jetting circuit at a time..especially since the needle and main blend at 3/4 throttle. Leave the needle in the middle... We run 280 to 290 with similar mods at sea level to 1000 feet. I think 270 is a good place...and as said, do a plug chop, then fine tune your needle.

Excessive is not good, it either means a bad clutch side crank seal, too rich fuel/air mixture or poorly seated rings. A little is fine...as said, two strokes don't dip in oil...they get it all from their fuel...

Bad ass dude...congrats!!! That looks like a TON of fun!!

Well...you just can't please people all the time...LOL. I wish it wasn't snow/ice season, or I'd have a better idea how it's gonna work...but for now, I'm gonna run it to work out any kinks it may have. I won't have nothing much to report until I hit a dyno or the sand, unless the motor grenades on me...

Glad to hear all is well... I'll keep an eye out for a swingarm for you as well...if this one falls through.

Don't waste your money on a Dyna just yet. Get a plate for a TON less...you're better off putting that money towards pipes. And yes...I had a dyna at one time, back to a stock CDI now and a plate. A dyna is great if you have time and money to tune it, custom program it on a dyno for your needs. Figure the cost of the CDI plus a few hundred more for the software/cable and dyno time to program it. You could easily buy pipes and make a bigger difference. Clean up the air intake...too. if you ride mud, keep the box. if you don't, ditch it... Pipes and air filter are the best mods for a stocker...

Do a search...it's been covered. There are a ton of places that do engine work, porting...etc., that you can also get a crank, clutch, etc. all from. Personally...I think you should support those that support and sponsor the site. Picking an engine builder is like buying a car, new or used. Call around, shop around...see how you're treated, how fast they return your phone call, if they ask the right questions, if they listen... Keep in mind, cheaper is not always better. In fact, it rarely is...

What rock did you crawl out from?? LOL... Good to see ya round old boy.... Yes, you can tell by the large pivot bolt on top in his picture, it's stock style.. Wish I had more cash, I'd really like to have that 4 mil cub back... Steve...you going bigger, or just building a dragger based on the 4 mil?

Homeboy....this isn't ebay. Either post an asking price or put it on ebay... This isn't an auction block...

replace the bulbs first, homie. Unless you're running HUGE Hella lights or something like that, find a good OEM stator, NYUK usually has a few laying around...I actually just got 2 off him. the ignition side of the stator and the lighting side are separate, so one can work without the other... I thought the same thing, what does he need lights for on a drag bike... Sorry, I'm a sand kinda guy... I understand. Try bulbs, try replacing the recitifier (silver box next to the CDI on the back end of the bike) See if that helps. I just gave firehead a recitifier I had laying around, I'm sure Johnny boy has a few of those too... Good luck!

Correct. No on the powder coat, yes on the chrome... You might have better luck hitting ebay or other forums looking for chrome or PC'd aftermarket arms that have removable ball joints in them....

Homie...just an FYI. I posted this up on PS. I got mine on, and I couldn't get the clutch to disengage... I've always run an extra steel plate in my clutch, and it turns out that .045 steel plate didn't give any clearance, so when tightened down....nadda. PM'd Kevin and left him a Voicemail, called me back in 1/2 hour and the first thing he said is....do you have thicker than stock steels or fibers, or do you have an extra steel? Nailed it.... got her on now....can't wait to ride it. For my 10 mil, he recommended 1 row of balls removed. That will give me the same locking power of a DD unit, which I took off. However, my clutch is a little worn...and I'll be on ice picks when our lakes "re-freeze" again.... He tried something new with mine, two bolts and two bushings to hold it all together to bolt it on. He said I could use these bolts and bushings, I'd just have to loctite them in to run it. I opted to remove them once installed... Check it out...(yeah...I got PC on the inside of the motor...that's how I roll...LOL) :yelrotflmao:

I agree...sell the override you have and get a dunable... My 4 mil cub on gas was worthless with a stock tranny....a 10 mil will be even worse. If you're gonna take the time to cut a tranny, get it done right... Dunable override is the only way to fly... Let me know if you need a dunable tranny...I might have someone that will swap out yours for a dunable, possibly with a few bucks on top....

Next time, use the word rim in the subject field. Firehead and bansh-eman see 8 or 9 inch wide in the subject title, they get all giddy like a prom queen after a few foo foo drinks.

I'll attempt to answer that in short... First off, backloading... Backloading is when you let off the gas and do NOT pull in the clutch. While this may be done a time or two on a normal cut override, it will bend and damage the shift forks if you have more than a few "ooops" moment. And forget about downshifting. Dunable overrides can be backloaded, but it is NOT recommended over 8000 RPM...so, pull in the clutch... You can also shift them up or down...the benefit is you can upshift under full throttle like a normal override, with the flexibility to backload the tranny at lower RPMs, and downshift it. Now...excessive back loading will eventually wear the shift forks...but, not for a while. The Dunable are a bit more money, and the difference in them vs. regular override is how the drum is cut, and springs are used between the two shift forks to help return them to a neutral position....

Usually you'll gain some PSI.... A hot motor is sealed better, expansion and all the fancy stuff. Normally...a worn motor will be a bit less cold than hot. A fresher motor, not as much of a difference.

Oh...come on...you don't do that bad on your tranny deals... :wink:

Did you try different clips on the Toomey needle, or just the 4th clip from the blunt end and call it a day?? What are ALL of your mods? The Toomey needles were designed around no airbox, either their 1 into 2 air filter system or two pod filters....