dajogejr

Impossible to answer... people that jack up their timing usually know what compression they're already at....and run race fuel.

Very good idea to check and go from there. You could probably crank up the timing and compression for a noticeable improvement going to race fuel...and since you already have a trail banshee, that would be my route...

Not to be a dick...but 2100 or 1600 for a 17 year old bike that doesn't run....best of luck. bike that run that are newer go for that much... to get you money out of it, IMO...either get it running or part it out...

I agree 100%. What is your compression at..By the way?

Happy New Years all....hoping to have as much fun or more in 08...and meet some new people/racers as well!!

He's was (as of the end of October) very nice and professional with me... However, if you ship something once...and it doesn't arrive, you'd think the next time you'd use a different carrier, get a tracking number of sort, etc.... I know a working CDI is worth 30 bucks, probably more...but, I didn't set the price, he did...and he got paid. I just want the part or money back, that's all. November and December I had a HUGE payroll project to under take at work, literally pulling what little hair I have left out...so I kinda let it slide for a while. Well...now I'm back on the ball...

Well... for the month of October, I went back and forth with Dave. He sold me a stock CDI (for a backup use, drag bike) for 30 shipped. Great price, couldn't go wrong... Said he shipped it to my house, never got it. He said he'd send another, this time I asked him to send it to my work...since we have a loading dock, personnel there, etc. Said he shipped it there too. Shipped it via the post office, no tracking number or delivery confirmation, etc. Seemed like he wanted to do me right, gave me a phone number to call (I admit, never called him) but I've sent him a few PMs here and there. He hasn't been on since the beginning of November... Guys, I've shipped and received a lot of parts here and on PS. I've never, EVER had a part that did not get to me, or have a member not get a part from me. I can see something getting lost in the mail once. Shit happens. But twice? C'mon now. People from all over the country have sent me stuff, and I've sent them stuff as well.... I paid him via my online bill pay (easier than a check/money order, no stamps to buy...I pay NYUK this way as well for parts) Here's a copy of the cashed check, I've obviously erased account info and his address. Dave...all I want is a refund or a working CDI. I will ask the mods/Lee to delete this post if you want to make it right. I saved all our PMs, in case you need your memory jarred...as well. For some reason, I can't get the PIC to display properly, here's a link to it. http://img182.imageshack.us/my.php?image=checkforcdihy8.jpg

Since you're racing for money, that should be a drop in the bucket...

Nice... It's called the lie detector... I pulled that page up, but it didn't display properly...thanks JT.

I just looked for JJ&A Racing, could not find it... You basically stick it in thespark plug hole and roll it over TDC to BDC...tells you how long the stroke is. You could actually do the same thing with a very small ruler, this is just easier...

Shayne, maybe it's too close to Cuba...who knows, but the street racer cats in Miami have always been that way... All someone has to do is get the equalizer from JJ&A, stick it down the spark plug hole, and measure stroke. If someone can't tell the difference in casting size from stock to 10, they deserve to lose...

Jeff's clutch and a lockout on mine, on it's third year, I'm retiring it...keeping it as a backup/spare. I also have a new style lockout I'm going to be trying... http://www.planetsand.com/forums/ubbthread...2114#Post782114

Honestly, Suspension is EXPENSIVE...but, that's what I'd get first. better trail ride and better to get the power to the ground for hill climbs. Motor works isn't quite as expensive as suspension.....

Dave has had those for sale on PS for quite some time....Shearer won't make inframe big bores anymore, but...the price is a bit high IMO.

Ditto.. Mine's been in my bike three years. Stocker bolt on motor in 05, 4 mil cub on race gas in 06 and my 10 mil on alky all this year....flawless.

The stators from RM and Ricky Stator look IDENTICAL....and are priced the same, too. I'm on my second. First one died less than a year, the replacement has last me all season...but, I keep a spare in the box just in case!!! Glad you're set...

There is a key and spline on the end of the crankshaft...and a spline or channel on the flywheel. There is only one correct way to put it on. If this isn't installed properly, the bike will hardly run, if at all... Get a clymers manual, the factory manual sucks for this kind of thing.

Yep...came up on me in the pic on my sig. Makes for a good pic, but a crappy ET most of the time. I normally sit half seat, have to slip the clutch out rather than dump it. Once I get a bar, I'll be able to sit my fat ass on the back of the seat to really hook and roll out. Coming up on a 14 over arm is like being at the end of a small ladder...it is weird as all hell. And...the thing is...it's like slow motion going up or coming down...weird feeling for sure!!!

Sorry...I just jump the gun when someone says something like oil is the cause of issues, or one certain type is the be all, sell all of the oil world, etc... No biggie...

Kiel and I have done it both the same way, except I tapped the right side of the cylinder intake...just preference really. I have my pump mounted the same spot, one hole lined up, the other I drilled. You have to make sure you can put your seat on all the way, I had to get a stack of washers and shim my pump down a bit.... Kiel uses the T fitting for making purging easier... I like my way better. Get quick disconnects from Direct Drive...IMO, they make purging even easier....

lGood call...we'll have to make some time for that one!

If the port timing was matched for the 4 mil crank, I'm sure the porting has probably been cleaned up a little as well. To be honest, the pipes are holding you back a bit....some better porting and maybe 28 to 32mm carbs will help as well. What about timing, did you buy a plate and advance that, too???

Snop...I think the header pipe after the flange might be a hair bigger, I"m not 100% positive though...

The only way it's lean is if there's an air leak. Reedvalves give the motor more fuel, sometimes you have to lean the needle one clip spot for them to be spot on. Did he use new gaskets and make sure the motor is sealed? I've never had to change main jets for reed/reed cages alone...especially that drastically of a change.

Very true guys... I personally would love to have a little hopped up 700, they rip ass from what I hear. Two of my track buddies have pretty quick Raptors, but they'll both tell you they probably have 2-3 times the $$ into them... Brady080 has a very quick stock stroke cub shee, and my buddy Newtz is thinking of selling his Raptor for a drag shee, last I talked to him as well.