dajogejr

Keep in mind the thickness of a head and base gasket plays a large part of the porting/compression specs of a motor. I think stock base gaskets are .020...not sure though. Head gaskets are .012 to .022 or so... You have to have some gap between the piston crown and the head when it comes up to make it's compression stroke, or else it will hit the head. Too little gap (called squish) will cause too high compression, preignition, etc.... People that don't use gaskets and silicone/RTV only had their cylinders or heads machined that way with the clearances needed taken into account.

Use gaskets on both... If anything, get the stock head cut for Orings...

If the 3/4 gears on both trannies are in good shape, I'd be interested in buying those off the trannies... Let me know...

I really like the metal tech products as well.... I have their 14 over aero tube swinger, very nice.... I got a steal on a set of Tyson Drag J Arms....so, it was easy for me... Check it out... http://www.metaltechproducts.com/A_Arms.htm

If they're stockers, even if you stiffen up...it's gonna be mushy. I honestly don't know if you can rebuild/respring stockers, but I'm sure someone on here can tell ya...

The first number is the width, second number is the length offset (think wheelbase length) so +2 +1 would be 2 inches wider and 1 inch further forward than stock geometry... I've never heard/read anything bad about them. Keep this in mind, your current shocks will have to be revalved and/or resprung for wider A Arms, you are putting more leverage on the shocks....with wider arms, and they will feel like mush, softer than what you're used to, probably bottom out easier. Color is pure preference.... I'm going to assume these arms have removable ball joints (the reason you can't PC stockers) so....if it's cheaper and easier to get them PC'd yourself...wait. Then again, if it is only a little more money, I'd just let them do it. Your time and money....your call.

Yeah, I've always been the backyard/Shadetree type mechanic, used to never wear eye protection, gloves...etc. I'm tellin ya...this shit is no hoe, it's the real deal...it'll burn ya big time, singe some nose hairs too....

No offense to Snop, but Nwit...with a 10 mil cub, you should make yourself familiar with tearing it down, splitting the cases, etc.... Unless you have mounds of cash to pay someone else to do it, when you build a motor like that, there's always going to be a decent amount of tinkering.... Not that it's not worth 150 to tear it down, split it....and reassemble it, it's worth every penny if you bring him the whole motor out of bike. But you're playing with the big dogs now....gotta get dirty. Luckily, there is no easier motor/cases to tear down than a banshee....

Kaos....most automotive stores carry it. BEWARE....wear gloves and eye protection, and use it in a well ventilated area.... It is NASTY SHIT!!!

There is a thread about this here somewhere, and some said the bolts don't hold torque on the motor, etc... All three kits I got for my bike and two of my buddies bikes had no issues at all...

Yep... AND.... Drain the fuel tank, throw that gas/oil out. No telling how long it's been sitting there... Mix up a FRESH batch of oil and gas at the ratio you plan on running... That ratio is up to you... Pop the seat, make sure the filter lid is securely fastened, this seals the air filter on a stock air box/air filter. I agree, heat cycle it a few times, allowing it to Cool COMPLETELY...take it for a 10 or 20 minute ride shifting through gears, try not to stay at a certain RPM for too long. Let it cool...go beat the HELL out of it...

Steve... Jared and I sealed the deal today... However, we both agreed as gentlemen (yeah yeah, laugh all you want...lol) that if either of us is unhappy upon receipt of pipes, we will ship each other's shit back, no questions asked, call it square. So if for any reason this doesn't work out for both of us...you're on point...

That's a great price. The CHEAPEST I get them for is 47 and change....and that's not including shipping... Sudco and Carb Parts.com want about 60 or so for it. This is the only pump I'll use for alky....AND...you can buy rebuild kits for it as well.

Fair enough....you won't see any gain, performance or otherwise was my whole point all along... He can balance till he's blue in the face, but I think he's wasting time if he's looking for actual gain...performance or longevity.... That's all...

No nut lost yet, but I did sleep at a Holiday Inn last night, and saved a ton on car insurance by switching to Geico... If the temps continue to be this low, I think we should have good ice to ride on the following weekend!

Yeah, you've said you're going to go balance it 3 times now. What are you waiting on? Go do it.... Stop wasting your valuable time, you could be perfecting your lockup... Balance, Danielsan....must first learn balance.... Wax on, Wax off.... Remember, Karate here...never here....... Crain technique... If done right, no can defend....

turn the carb upside down, the bottom (top of if they're upside down) of the float should be level flat. If they're set, check one of two things, vent line plugged from the gas cap...or junk in the screen of your fuel valve...

I'll third that...>LOL

2006 is and was the last year they'll be sold in the US by US dealers. the rest of the world still gets the new paint scheme and graphics every year... Since the mid 90's...that is the ONLY change they have gotten. I personally wouldn't buy a brand new one based on how cheap aftermarket parts are, how readily available they are....and not many keep them stock for long, anywho.... Keep what you have, it's more than likely paid off...and take 1/2 that put it in mods to yours, suspension, etc. You'll have a much better bike and OWE a lot less...my advice.

Hmmm....sounds like paper knowledge and hearsay... :whistling:

The only cable I worry about is the clutch cable... They're nice to have, but not a big deal if you don't. I've taken the end of the straw on a can of liquid wrench or WD40, flattened it a little, and tried to stick in inbetween the cable and the sheath... Tiny spray....move the cable in and out to work it's way down. You'll be amazed how nice your clutch pull is with a little lube and cleaned up perch!!!

I used this kind of stripper to clean paint/varnish off a China Cabinet... It worked fine, but it pales in comparison to the good aircraft stripper Keil is talking about... That stuff will burn the hairs out of your nose.... That is a LOT of paint on those plastics....sheesh!!!

Damn...there goes my offer to sell you my 14 extremes... 6 over arm...that would be a fun ride...ONCE!!

Tonz of left over, mis matched. Here's the thing, I built a drag bike. No front brakes, no lights, I took the plastics off since.... The other thing, I had to use bolts for something to mount things like a fuel pump under the seat, and an aftermarket coil, etc... I stole from other areas of the bike that I wasn't going to need in order to mount things I did. Also...my Lonestar Drag axle has SAE studs on it, so...the wheel nuts for the back won't fit. It was a real pain in the dick....but, all the motor and suspension bolts worked out perfect. I think I sold the remainder of the bolts to Travis for like 20 bucks or so....he got a nice assortment for a few bucks. It really all depends on how much you leave off the bike Kaos... Hope this helps. I mean, they have screw for the front brake reservoir cover.....it's that detailed!!

Your level of stupidity and non-comprehension is totally beyond me. Look at the bike in my sig. I own it. I built it. And yes...that's a picture of me riding it down the track. And yes...it does have a lockup. DOES THAT LOOK LIKE A PIECE OF FUCKING PAPER TO YOU? Do you think I built it overnight? Do you think I've broke enough bikes to figure out what works, what doesn't, how to fix something, how to make it better....how to keep it reliable? No one just jumps onto a drag bike and rides off into the sunset. It's a learning curve based on input from others that have been there before you....and your own experiences. You don't seem to grasp that concept. Why don't you do a search on here of boost bottles, you can get my feelings on them from there. Boost bottles work in theory...just like balancing your clutch. I suggest you go out and buy one.... Wait a minute.... You're saying boost bottles are no good, but balancing your lockout is.... Yeah, here's your sign buddy.....