dajogejr

Wes... Most, if not all...any new notebook you get will have Vista. Make sure you get 2GB of RAM (2048MB). Notebooks are inherently slower in operation due to processors designed to save battery life and slower spindle speed hard drives (usually 5400). even the SATA hard drives aren't much faster in practice...even though in theory their data throughput should be quicker than the old EIDE standard... Buy as much notebook as you can, sacrifice a little screen size for better processor, more memory...and most importantly...an onboard video card that has it's own memory (dedicated) rather than sharing it with system memory... Good luck!!

No way in hell you'd need a fuel pump, etc. for stockers, bored or otherwise...unless you converted them over to alky and drove a long time WOT. There is an interesting post here about boring them past 27.5mm (stock is 26mm) and it not idling correctly...however, I've seen plenty bored to 28mm without issues. In my opinion, dump the stock carbs, pickup some 28 or 30mm PWK Keihin carbs, just a much better design... OH yeah, and Welcome to the HQ.

Honestly Wes...I say go for it... I've got a 5 year old PC, it's strong...but even with a pair of Raptor hard drives in RAID 0 (10K RPM drives instead of the normal 7200, RAID 0 is the fastest data writing/reading combo you can do) it's still not impressive when encoding and creating video... In short, even though my PC is strong, I'm looking to get a cheap MAC to edit basically drag race video footage. I can spend 500 to 700 upgrading my PC (Video card, motherboard, processor and RAM) or I can spend 400 or so, get a Mini-Mac, and learn...do video better, and probably be better off. I say go for it...and let us know what you do/what you think of a MAC. It's not like you'd be throwing your old PC away...right?

I know exactly what you meant...and I respectfully disagree... Mom and Pops, as well as kids...use Windows at school and work. They'll continue to use them at home, too...the type of break MS can afford to give schools, offices, etc, MAC will never be able to compete with that or they'd lose their ass. MAC will never break into the business work force, there's simply not enough server infrastructure development for them. IMO, Linux makes a nice PC OS, but....they don't have the backing...either. Never gonna happen buddy....not until after we're both gone and dead, anyways....

Greg...what are you smoking...? Linux and MAC combined won't take over the market share in 20 years, let alone 10....promise.... My biggest thing is I understand the underpinnings of Windows, MAC I have no clue....

True that. Although...for the little bit of time I have on a MAC, I was able to navigate around pretty easily. One thing I found, Wes....which might keep you from pulling your hair out, is if you connect one to a Linksys (and possibly other wireless access points/routers) if you have it locked down secure (WEP, or other wireless encryption) you have to enter a $ sign before you enter the WEP key code... Found that out the hard way....

What exactly do you plan on using it for ...day to day wes? (if it's making videos of you and your bud there on the "casting couch"...a MAC is the way to go...lol) J/K... Been a PC user and Windows Administrator for a long time, I've wanted to get one of those mini macs for a few hundred bucks to learn on one, just haven't gotten around to it. They do pictures and video editing better than a PC, period. If you just want to screw around on the net, burn a few CDs, download some porn (just a wild guess on that last one...) get an XP laptop, they still can be found....

Damn BK...talk about a fully stacked AND stocked bar....sheesh... :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

I have the stainless bolts for the plastics, I'm keeping those..in case I decide to "put her clothes back on"...lol. Your best bet for little stuff like that is hit the hardware store and buy stainless allen bolts/washers for it. Sorry...

I have two St. Bernard's...I feel your pain, believe me. I have some odds and ends in a big old box in the garage, radiator hoses and the like. You need anything, give me a holler...

Now would be a good time to dress it up and get a stainless allen head bolt kit from flebay. I love mine....

I would be trying other known good components in the ignition, then checking the clearances in the motor. Something isn't right...

If you're boring the inside diameter of the carb, why do you have to have intake boots cut?? the OD of the carb throat isn't changing????? I've seen plenty of stock carbs bored to 28mm, maybe whomever did yours didn't do it right.

I've got a few...gotta dig them up from home. What is the best way to get them to you? Might be too big to send via email.

I looked at that RM Stator site, their stators look the exact same as the ones from Ricky Stator... If you can...get a used OEM stator. I always keep a spare stator in my tool box, my first RS Stator went bad in less than a year, I'm on a warrantied Stator now...

What kind of head/domes are you running to get 145PSI, you didn't list that in your mods...

In addition: Does the Snap on compression gauge thread into the cylinder head as far as your spark plug? In other words, do they have the same reach? The Snap On tester I use is about half the depth of a spark plug, so I add about 10 PSI to that, since that area is about 1cc larger, give or take, than a spark plug threaded in. Are all the TORS properly removed, taped off, no grounding out wires, etc?

Here's why I think something else is wrong, here's an approxamate compression chart from Dave Noss, maker of the cool head. It doesn't go to 17cc, but at 18cc domes, between sea level and 1000 feet, it should be mid 180's with 18cc domes. Add 10 to 12 PSI for 17cc domes. So...you should be WAY more than 160ish.... Here's the spec sheet on them from NOSS, scroll down: http://www.nossmachine.com/banshee_heads.htm That being said... Seating the rings won't cause you to jump 30 to 40 PSI... Can you answer my other question? Are all the ignition components you listed new (Stator, coil, CDI and flywheel) or are they used?

Something isn't right... Unless you're above 4500 to 5000 feet of elevation, 160 PSI on 17cc domes is way low, like 30 PSI off at or near sea level... compression should hold, there is a check valve in any compression tester, without that, the tester is no good. I would re-cc the domes, makes sure they are in fact 17cc. Check squish. then try a different, name brand quality compression tester. Did you set the pickup coil gap correctly. When you say you replaced the ignition, are these brand new parts, or new to you but used parts. The domes and compression doesn't add up....

Depending on your elevation...I'd say here's your problems. 16cc domes, so much compression can kill top end. Dyna's stock curve advances it 4 degrees at lower RPMs...and a few at higher RPMs, coupled with the plate, that could effect top end. Set the plate to 2 degrees... Stock carbs on a ported motor...that could hurt some top end. I'd start with 18cc domes...let the motor free up a bit and spin.... and I would use 110 straight race gas.... Sorry, just read you're at sea level.... Put larger domes in...that motor is fighting to spin at high RPMs. 16cc domes are fine if you ride above 5000 feet...but at sea level, I'd bet your compression is easily up over 210PSI or so....

You ain't right....no bananna hammock jockeys...dammit...LOL. I used 10 paddle haulers on my 4 mil cub, gas, 6 over arm....worked pretty well.

That's the same thing I posted on PS...JT. I'm not sure if the PJs were available with fuel pumps or not, but we know the PWKs are...

Well...I can tell you what worked well for me. On my 4 mil cub (and the stroke is important when it comes to dome size and compression...) I ran .045 squish, cleaned up cub, 185PSI, 8 degrees of timing on my plate and my dyna on the most advanced curve (so around 12 degrees to about 5K RPM, then the timing retarded a little from the dyna) I ran 110 race fuel (out of the pump, not VP) and 40:1 Super M or Klotz. It ran good. I drag raced it, duned it...never ran hot or overheated, and I'm a big guy....250 lbs. First check compression to know where you're at. Then, put it on 110 and bump the timing 1 degree at a time...as you said. People told me I was crazy to crank that much timing into my motor...only because they never tried it on their own. You have the right idea...baby steps.

Where are you guys getting your pilot jets at? Keihins go full sizes, not halves.... i.e. 40, 42, 45, 48, 50, 52...and so on. They end in 0, 2, 5 or 8. If you're getting off brand jets with half sizes, get genuine Keihin jets, that could be part of your problem. I agree...60 is bigger than we use on methanol bikes with BIG carbs.. Mid 40s is where I'd try... 42, 45 and 48. Probably 148 to 155 on the main... Could you please shorten your sig up...we don't need to know what kind of brake pads and rotors you are running....

Stock cylinder motors are not as prone to detonation as a cub is. Keep an eye on your plugs, and listen to the motor too? I'm going to sound like an ass saying this..but I gotta ask? Why not just get race fuel? And if you knew the answer to your question, why ask? It's as if you already made up your mind what you wanted to do, knew how to do it, and fully planned on carrying it out.... No one in their right mind would tell you to go ahead and just crank the timing. Each bike/setup is different, just as your OEM and cub are different, rider weight, temps, local, altitude, etc.... And even if you had two of the same bikes with the same mods running next to each other, it would still be different... Timing is one piece of many in the puzzle...What is your squish, squish band, squish angle, blaster or banshee piston, etc... Lots of variables.... So...like you said, 1 degree at a time, listen to the motor and check your plugs. But I think you should get some race gas and crank away...personally.