dajogejr

04 and 05 Rs are slow....06 and 07 is a whole new ball game...

Since I'm in St. Clair Shores, maybe we should find a way to split a barrel, huh? 55 gallon barrels of meth are cheap. You need to get a good drum pump with no rubber internals or the meth will eat them away... Normally this year I went to Richards in New Baltimore and seen Rich, the owner.... Bought my 5 gallon can of M1 and it would pretty much last me a full day of racing and then some. That gets expensive when you can get a drum for 150 to 180 bucks....

Yeah, It cost me about 200 bucks out of pocket to switch from a 4 to a 10 early this year, otherwise I would've probably stuck to my 4. Considering the rider is 130 lbs, with the PROPER SETUP, he'll compete with just about any of the cub motors...until you start getting into drag frames, NOS, etc...

On a small two stroke engine, you only bore it to the next size to keep it at clearance specs. if you're a snowmobile engine builder/porter, I'd expect you to know that... 30 to 50 cubic inches is a big difference compared to 15 to 20 ccs. Most places will port the cylinder first, then bore it. If you happen to slip and make a goof...nick the cylinder with the grinder, it'll come out with a fresh bore. ONLY bore it to where it needs to be for clearance. Your motor is not real worn...to be honest. If your motor was way low on compression, say under 105 lbs, a fresh motor would make a bigger difference, you're only 10 PSI or so, give or take, from bone stock fresh, new. 82 bucks for two pistons and all the hardware must be your cost, and you must buy a TON of them because dealer cost is usually 100 bucks to 110 on a set of the pistons and all that hardware.... They retail 155 to 180 for a set of those. And please do not ceramic coat them... it's a total waste of time if it even works for pistons bought not already molybendum (spelling?) coated....

If he's a newbie....just get the plate. The Dyna is worth it if you have time to get to the Dyno and program a curve for your specific needs. Or if you're going to use the advanced features like ignition stutter, a tach, NOS RPM Activation, etc... For most average joes...a plate is sufficient. The biggest difference out of the box, the Dyna will advance the curve early on in the RPM range, and retard it as the RPMs raise for more overrev... The plate is static, if you give it a 4 degree advance at 2000 RPM, you get a 4 degree advance at 10,000 RPM.

I built my 4 mil last year and the plan was to hit the dunes some, hit the strip some... If you want a good drag race bike, it's gotta be low, stiff suspension, and light. My 4 mil was a lot of fun last year, but I LOVE my 10 mil....

keep in mind if you get a cheetah, you're going to need a new head, intakes, pipes, and carbs.....

Yep...sure do. I'd say higher % on hotter days since it runs so cool, maybe less on cooler days. A lot of guys don't take the time to setup timing, compression, squish, etc. for alky...they just bolt on carbs and that's it. The motor has to be setup different in order to take the benefits of methanol....

Dude...this post is from 2005....can you please look at the dates before you dig up old posts? Thanks... :thumbsup:

This post was from June, and since this member (astars25) hasn't been on since June 20th, I kinda doubt it...

Well put homie... Depends... I had PWKs, someone gave me a set of Lectrons, and I wouldn't go back. however, the carbs I have retailed 700 to 800 new. I don't have that kind of cabbage to spend on carbs when for a few hundo you can get PWKs or Mikunis. Are you going to dune it more or drag race it more? What kind of pipes you going to run? Where are you going to be riding it? Are you going to run gas or alky? 130 lbs on a 4 mil is gonna be a fast bike....

Uh...HELLOOOO....all I got was this lousy T shirt....LOL. Just kiddin man, will call you in the next few days to get rolling. If not, have a good holiday with the family Jeff, thanks for all the help, laughs and stories for 07.... DJ

I have the 10 mil he is talking about, and he's dead right. As with any racing, either of us can win at any time...and we've had a friendly rivalry for the past couple of years in a good way, we push each other to go faster. His 4 mil is drag ported, my 10 mil is not, however...to be 100% fair, my bike has a lot more lightened goodies on it, front end, drag axle, etc... We are both members of the Heavy Hitters club (250 lbs plus) I think BadAss will agree, a 10 mil is easier to go faster on, he only rode my bike one time, and ripped off a 4.3 or 4.4...and my fastest time on my own bike is a 4.22. If I'm not mistaken, the first words out of his mouth back in the pits was "Man, I'm building me a 10 mil"...LOL. However, 4 mils without a doubt are the best bang for the buck, and setup right will give 7 and 10 mils fits all day long. Our other friend Shayne has a 4 mil that has beat my best time a few times this year... I had a 4 mil on race gas with a stock tranny and no lockup last year, moved to a 10 on alky with override and lockup this year. If you can afford it, get the 10. If money is an issue, get the 4...you'll be happy either way. Keep in mind, you're going to need an override, upgraded clutch, lockup, longer swingarm, more paddle...etc., just to name a few. Also better pipes and intakes, bigger carbs. So...whatever you think you're gonna spend, triple that for a starting point....trust me.

I'd say run the taller gearing on the 4 mil, it'll pull it better. As far as them being different, I'm not sure...but I do know the older ones came geared different...14/41 vs. 14/42 My man, you posted at 2:30 AM and again at 8:30...give people time to wake up and have a coffee....

I've run 2 quarts before in bikes without lockups so the shifter ball/rod get more oil and it helps prevent clutch ball lockup in some cases. Don't worry about it...

Just remember, when you cross that line it's GO BLUE!!!

My buddy was selling metal tech chrome drag arms, let me see if he's got them still. Guess they're sold...but here's what they look like: http://www.planetsand.com/forums/ubbthread...true#Post778131

4.22 and 4.25 out of my non-ported (cleaned up only) 10 mil cub on alky with override, stock frame cut and lightened. No bar...on sand 300 foot. I'm 250lb rider, too.

I don't see a price listed...what is it?

Do we need to get you two a room?? LOL... Yeah, ShaYne (got it right homie) great guy at the track and on the boards, will do just about anything for ya...

Should compliment it nicely... PWKs are more popular, so you can normally find PJs fairly cheap!

Tell you what...this picture is priceless...especially for alky burners. Timing marks and heat range/heat burn are pretty much all you haver to go by when reading alky plugs...

The good thing about VP is you know you're getting fresh fuel...that's about it. I pay 35 for a 5 gallon can of M1. I think M5 or M3 has the top end lube (4 stroke guys use this) already in it. Next year I'll be finding a distributor and getting a 55 gallon drum, or...I'll be sharing/buying another with JT....

210 is too high for alky IMO, of course squish, bore % to squish band %, timing as well as a few other factors would chime in there as well. I would test with another gauge, as said...and check the squish. Something ain't right....

Someone sells a rebuild kit for each carb for like 15 or 20 bucks each. Might be time to replace the needle and seat.