dajogejr

Great minds think alike my man!!

Yep....it's either electrical or you have an air leak. If you can, swap stator, CDI and coil with a known working bike. Otherwise...OHM the stator and coil. Also...make sure your air gap on the flywheel to pickup is .016 tp .020, test both contacts. If electrical all checks out, you need to do a leakdown test. Do a search, RN Brad has a nice write up on creating a leak down tester, or machwon makes/sells a very nice kit.

If money and parts availability were not the issue...I'd build a Cheetah any day of the week. Powervalve, bigger intakes, better head design, bigger bore... It's a winner all the way around. Especially for a dune/drag bike. You can usually find used PVs on ebay or forums for a helluva lot less than 1K.... When you build this kind of motor, don't stop there or you'll be severly dissapointed. Override or dunable override are a must for a 10 mil if you want to be able to shift well and consistently under any kind of powre. Lockup clutch as well. Longer swinger, more paddle, longer brake line, longer chain, gearing.... And depending on what kind of intakes, carbs and pipes you're running....that might need to be swapped too. It never ends....

Please list all your mods, air box/filter setup, pipes...etc. Rider Weight, elevation, temps you ride in....

Alright Jamey....you're a class A 1 Fricken Prick. I got the DVD today....and guess what? It's 10 degrees outside, and here you guys are rippen around in the sand, dunes...etc. :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: Seriously, I only got 10 minutes into it and I had to go. Gonna watch the rest real soon. I hate to spoil it for some, but the first two songs are by Static X....love those songs man....sick, sick vid so far. Thanks man, I appreciate the DVD....can't wait to watch the rest!!!

Honestly....whichever you get cheaper... I have both, have run both....CPIs are a bit more forgiving, offer more torque a little sooner...mellow out a little over the Shearers....but I like 'em both. No...but I know what frame you're talking about and it sure was nice Doug!! I don't know what I'm gonna do this year, depends on what Uncle Sam says....and how far I can stretch it. At the very least, fresh top end and porting.... I appreciate the offer to use the tires, I think I might be home bound for a little while... I gotta do just a little work on the bike and I really need to look the bike over end to end to make sure I'm not missing anything that could be a problem!! Thanks...though, as always. One of these days, gotta swap you my Lectrons to try...as well!

1...you don't need matoon for a 10 mil. However, if you have the extra 2K after you buy all the other stuff, they sure are nice cases without a doubt. You order them for the bore/stroke you plan on running. They come machined for your combo.

100% my fault. I have a friend on another forum, his exact screen name is scottytoohotty. The site he freequents has been down all day, and I thought he came over here to screw around....seeings as how your name has only been a member for a short time and that was your third post. Honest mistake, thought you were someone else trying to have fun with us....my bad....

PM John Austin, his name here is NYUK. Otherwise....hit up ebay. Used stock pegs (not chromed or blinged out) can't be more than 20 bucks or so..... No pegs and standing on a nerf bar...sheesh... Good thing he sold it to you before he hurt himself too badly....

I don't know about what size teeth sprockets you need, but...I know a guy with a pit bike on a rigid that runs on nitro that will spank that MX banshee your talking about..... Man....you must be bored, and going through PS Withdrawls..... :biggrin:

Same as the head studs. 20 to 22 ft. lbs.

Nope...haven't done a thing to my bike since I got back. I have to get more studs, fix the hole in the tire with a plate of some sort....that tube exposed will eventually pop. Maybe carpet??? LOL.... I'm not going to ride again without a new chain at the very least. I also have to find a new spot to drill for my engine stay....I'm 99% positive there's no hole in the cases, but I've yet to pull the whole cover off to see for myself. No time, no money....it's just gonna sit for a while. I'm very happy with how it ran Sunday, though....seems everyone else was too, until the oops.....

There is no set rule or measurements. I can tell you by common experience, you are at the edge of pump gas/race gas needs... I would set it at 4, and keep a very good eye on your plugs and listen to your engine. Some will say "I run 190 PSI with 12 degrees of timing on 87 octane gas and I have for years"....good for them. They very well may....but unless THEY want to rebuild YOUR engine from their OWN pockets, I try to give safe advice....and leave the final say and tuning tips to the end user as they see fit. for their own unique engine in their own environment....

Hell Matt, Jeff is right in your neck of the woods.... I will personally vouch for him, stuff always runs good, nicest guy at the dunes and track to talk to and BS with. You won't go wrong dealing with him. His stuff is always top notch!!!! Best of luck to both of you!!!

I got a couple seals in my tool box I haven't used. Any chance you can mic the ID, OD and the seal thickness and a pic of an old one? Good chance I have it, couldn't tell you which it is...

+ HOLD UP...stop the press. NEGATIVE 35 celsius....I just reread that. That's like 31 below Farenheight.... You're right, my fault....I did not realize there was a - in front of that....sheesh. On your own dude....you gotta throw a lot of fuel at that motor at that cold and good luck getting it to start even with the chokes...

As someone that actually has used both...let me tell you.... The plate is a static adjument across the whole RPM spread. 4 degrees advance at 2000 RPM is the same as 4 degrees advance at 10,000 RPM. Keep in mind...the stock CDI advances it to...so it's NOT 4 degrees total advance. The Dyna, with it's 4 preprogrammed curves already advances it 4 degrees at lower RPMS. From there, each curve varies on rpm advance and duration.... two strokes do not have RPM limiters. Ignition does not control that. Pipes, porting, intake, compression...and a few other factors figure in for how far an engine can rev. Two strokes don't have the limiting factors like four strokes, most notably the valve train..... I would do one of two things. Get rid of the dyna and only use the plate. Or...get rid of the plate and only use the DYNA IF you have the time/money and means to get to a dyno and program curves that best suit your engine and particular riding style(s)

I think the first few years were 14/42...not sure exactly what years...maybe 87 to 90??

The inline cooler is a waste of time. If you're putting it on for looks alone, ok then. For actual temp differences, you won't see any noticeable drop in operating temps whatsoever...

Any of you guys actually read his post? he still has an airbox with vent holes cut in... 280 mains in that temp are close.... Work the air screws. Warm the bike up, turn the air screws on both all the way in, then 1/2 turn out. Wait 20 seconds for the adjustment to take effect, go for a ride. Repeat this process until you get the highest idle. It is critical the bike is fully warmed up, and you wait 20 to 30 seconds after you make the adjustments to the air screw. Go 1/2 turn at a time out on each....then fine tune it with 1/4 turns once you're close. Since you said it runs good with .5 turns out....get 27.5 pilots and set the air screws at 1.5 turns out. Not coming down to idle are only a few things, throttle cable/slides handing, improperly adjusted carbs or an air leak.

There is no one pipe that does both of those very good, period. They are apples and orange, night and day...alpha and omega. You have a set of pipes that does drag better than tight trails... Figure out if you want to drag more or ride tight trails more...get a pipe better suited to that. 2 into 1 pipe kills top end and is a total waste for a drag bike. You can get the motor ported to run better on that pipe...but bottom line is that it's a great MX/woods/trail pipe, not a duner/drag race pipe. Honestly, get some FMF Fatty pipes and get your motor ported. Just a woods port... I'd bet it'll pull stumps for trails and have more power than you're used to and drag race better too....

Get what's called a gauntlet for your hands. yes...they look goofy. But they shield you from wind and ice/snow, etc. You can wear any kind of glove you want under them, or no gloves at all... They slide over your hands, they're made for snowmobiles, but...I promise, no glove will keep your hands as dry and warm as these. Come in all different styles and types... I know, they look goofy, but not as goofy as you going off into a ditch because you can't feel your hands/fingers.... http://www.heeters.com/snbgauntlets.shtml

Firehead's Fire 'roids must have been flaring up....too many circus midgets and pirate hookers will do that to you, so I've heard... Mark was just busting my balls for misspelling radiator....no big deal, we all have fun with each other, part of the group love.

Not sure....I know the end result is it popped my chain right off. Some said the motor locked up, but I got it home and it started right up, shot of ether (methanol + cold = ether to start dead cold) and my plugs look good, no specs of metal. I think he caught the side of the bank, it kicked him funny....and it went bad from there. Hard to say.... Either way, I still feel terrible about the whole ordeal, but Frank's a tough as hell guy...he's doing well, just gotta heal. He did say he has some really GOOD MEDICINE from the hospital, so...they're making him nice and comfy...about all you can ask for.

No...clutchless shifting won't wear it out any quicker than normal... Backloading it above 8K RPM ( letting off the gas and not pulling the clutch) will wear the shift forks...not the gears... Gear dogs are cut off, the ones left are angled, the shift drum gets the most work with cutting and welding the channels...