dajogejr

I'll probably be down for Anchor Bay the following.... I live 20 to 30 minutes from the launch, compared to over an hour to White Lake, just don't trust the bay ice yet....

Well...gonna be out at White Lake Sunday...probably around noon or so. Won't be out all day, but I know JT is down....how bout it JD and crew?

I personally don't think it will work on a twin two stroke because of the delicate scavenging design of an exhaust pipe. DMCs just both feed into one muffler, don't they??

Nope...my little fits of rage have stopped now that's it's been well over a week since I quit smoking... If he posted that BS on HQ I'd let him have it. Not that I'm the HQ police by any means, but....I don't want BS floating around for the unknowing or unsuspecting. Since it's ebay, they're on their own...we all can just sit back and laugh....

Do you have FIOS by chance? that DL is smoking....

My guess is just like a boost bottle. In theory, on paper....it might work for a banshee. In reality and in day to day practice, I'd say it wouldn't do anything... With all the different exhausts out there made for the single best selling ATV of all time, no one has done this to my knowledge and been able to prove it works as well....

What are all your mods and did you hit 91 with full front fenders? Your weight? Your gearing and rear tire size?

You know, I just don't have it in my to harass the guy. 135 KM/h, sure...believe that. Someone ask him to verify the speed by GPS or a drag slip time....I'll be on the road to PA tomorrow to pick it up if he can legitimately prove it. I've wasted a ton of time and money on my build if that stocker, bolt on motor bike can do 135..... He's probably running like 19/28 gearing.....

J Rod.... Got them today, packaged like fine china. They are perfect...I wouldn't even call that dime sized ding a ding, I'd call it a "surface imperfection" at best... I'm 100% happy with the pipes I've got. Please let me know if you're happy with what you receive, which...I PM'd you a tracking number via Fed Ex yesterday. You should have them by Friday, 7PM according to Fed Ex. Let me know...thanks a bunch....!!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Hell yes. I will take allen heads over phillips screws any day of the week fo sho!!!!

Guys...I"m sorry, I really have no clue what it's worth. It's black, got a little surface rust. Let me know what it's worth to you...if you're interested. This is a similar one on ebay. MINE DOES NOT COME WITH LIGHTS, it is the BAR ONLY!!! I got this in a box "o" stuff....didn't even know what it was until a buddy pointed it out. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-YFZ3...1QQcmdZViewItem I can take actual pics of mine if you're interested....

Lots of variables... As said, too much will make the motor fight itself at high RPMs...and these motors like to scream. It depends on the fuel type as well. In my experience, you gas will work with the real high compression (over 200PSI) but alky (Methanol) won't. I learned this one the hard way....trust me. Had to lower my compression for alky this year.... Dome cc size as well as shape/design also play a large factor. You could have 20cc domes but detonate the hell out of it because the squish band is too large, consequently, you could have 17cc domes that don't run for crap because the step/squish amount/band it too small or incorrect.... Piston choice also matters when selecting domes. Blaster pistons used by cub motors and big bore kits have a different dome shape/characteristic than banshee pistons...and the dome/head has to be cut accordingly....

Are these for stock shocks? I know you can get machined aluminum spacers from Sand Toyz Unlimeted the...they come with Mavin Shaw drag shocks....

I use Easy Thumbnail creator to shrink all pictures. Free and easy. I use imageshack.us to host them. No sign up, etc., and you can download their toolbar (no spyware or malware) to upload one or a bunch of pics at a time....

Got a link?

Easy loco... Think of overclocking your processor (CPU) as porting your cylinders...sort of. You're telling the Processor to run faster than it was designed to out of the factory.... This used to be done in the old days with pencil lead on the chip, then BIOS took care of the bus speed and multipliers, now...you can do it through software.... So...think of it as ramping up the power and speed of a processor faster than what it was designed to go...and, as you'd expect, it runs warmer, hence the need for a better cooler. It's a big thing for gamers and those that want to brag about their benchmark scores (think dyno for computers)... For an email/Internet type, and basic office/word processing, totally not worth it...

I think you may have typed that wrong....straight cut gears will lengthen bearing life because of less pulling/side load...is that what you meant? Big motors run straight cuts due to bearing failures on the stock helical cut gears... He rides pavement, so that can wear a clutch a little sooner....but I don't think he has enough power to make it slip that bad either. Somethings worn or out of adjustment is my opinion.... My clutch didn't slip at all in my 4 mil cub putting out 90 plus ponies on gas, never used a lockup...and I beat the bejesus out of it.

PM NYUK, I get all my stators from him. He parts out a lot of bikes.

Find a used stocker.... They're better quality than RS. The only reason to get a higher wattage stator is to run brighter lights. The ignition (spark side) of the stator is the exact same..... I can't see a stator making one side fire better than the other, though...I'd be checking the carbs for dirt/debris and float height, check compression on both sides...and check the coil end caps... Make sure the flywheel air gap is set correctly too....

Had 'em, loved 'em.... (don't need them any more though, I have a drag bike) When I get another trail bike again...I'll be getting another pair for sure. They don't get in the way whatsoever of clutch or front brakes.

Aside from the squish itself, which I like to keep at .040 to .050 for 68mm cubs and smaller, you want to stay less than 55% of your bore for the band. You're safely below that.... when you start running near 55%, then crank the timing, smaller cc domes (more compression) that's when you get the detonation issues cubs can be known for....

I'm going to attempt to help, one by one. If I don't answer a question, let me know. First off...T6 pipes are awesome. They do not work as well with aggressively ported motors as the T5s do. Since your motor is stock, leave them on. They will do fine. If you ever decide to get an aggressive port job, run them anyways. if you DON'T like how they perform, then get another set of pipes. Many people will tell you T5s for ported motors, T6 for stock motors...when in reality they've never run one or the other on different motor combos. I think you're underpaddled....usually 8 to 9 paddle haulers for stock bolt on bikes. Until you get your motor ported, keep the stock carbs or pickup some 28 or 30mm PWK carbs. Do NOT buy huge carbs for a stock port bike, and keep in mind once you get it ported and go with large carbs, you'll lose some bottom end. A 1 into 2 carb/intake setup is nice...but, you lose top end. At 3500 feet, I'd try this jetting. 310 mains, stock pilots, clip in the middle or one toward the blunt end if it's boggy in the middle RPMs.

What is your current compression? What is your squish, what is the squish amount/% (In other words, measure how flat the solder is, and how long the solder is flat) Jetting a little on the fat side, nothing wrong with that...but there are more factors to what octane you need to run and what timing it will run best at. When I ran my cub on race gas, 4 mil, I had 185PSI, .045 squish (don't remember squish band length) I ran 8 or 9 on my plate PLUS the Dyna on the most advanced curve. Ran great all year like that, track and dunes. Without knowing anything else, play with 4 to 6, but listen to the motor and check plugs often.

Amen...if you plan on using your shee at an organized racing event where others run non silenced pipes, fine... but if you want to be loud just to be loud, that's how riding areas get shut down, local land/home owners get fuel to their fire to restrict our riding areas more....etc. Please, don't do it just to be loud.... Grand River out of frame non-silenced drag pipes are the loudest I've heard yet, and I've heard/used Shearers and CPIs non-silenced, too...

Gotcha... That's odd, he specifically said he doesn't carry upper arm bolts, for A or J arm shees. His lower arm bolts fit mine nicely. I always use a nut and washer on the wheels, I think most people do too.... Sorry bout your luck, but...I don't doubt ya. I don't have most of that stuff on my bike...