dajogejr

J...those clamps and setup is sexy for sure...very nice. Check both pipes to see how far it goes into the stinger tube....they only need to go in an inch or so.

90% of jetting problems are electrical... When you make a severe change in jetting, from one end of the spectrum to the other (like from a stock 200 main to a 300 main) and it doesn't change a fricken thing, look electrical...

Incorrect. The lighting side and the ignition side of the stator are separate. You can have a bike run...and no lights, just as you can pull a bike (to get the motor spinning fast enough) and get a hint of lights...without spark. Start by Ohm Testing the stator, the method is in a clymers. Put new plugs in, and buy NGK plug end leads. New plugs and new leads will set you back 10 to 15 bones. Then check wires...all of them. Could be a faulty kill switch, grounded wire, etc. When it ran out of gas, were you putting around or riding it wide open? Any metal or aluminum on the plug. People sometimes forget when you run a two stroke out of gas, you also ran it out of oil....which, at high RPMs is NOT a good thing.

Damn that was funny...thanks guys, need the laugh this morning. I agree...fab time. You should be able to mock up a card board box to fit, and take it to a fab shop and have them make you one. I know there is a guy on one of these forums that does it...I just can't remember who...

No offense buddy...but 2-4 will get you a nice trail....part time duner banshee. I'm from Michigan, and I drag race at ALL the tracks with the guys here....I know what the bikes go for. For 6 Gs, this bike is a total freak. It flat out is fast and mops up bigger bikes all the time...and the owner is a good guy period. http://www.planetsand.com/forums/ubbthread...e_4_sale#UNREAD

How bad is the crank you have now? Is it salvageable??

Dave, I have one that has a little material missing out of the taper (no where near the keyway) and the pickup whacked the nubs...but nothing major. Not rusty and no broken magnets. I was going to have this one lightened as a backup/test/spare. How about I take a pic of it, if you're interested in a trade, lets do this. If not...no biggie. I've been wanting to try a lighter flywheel on mine to see how it runs, just don't have time/too lazy to get it to my buddy to turn it out...

Ok...gotcha...and that makes PERFECT sense... In my opinion...a 4 mil cub is the best bang for the buck. Drop in crank...near bolt together motor. I say "near" because you have to check a few things which are way more critical than a stock cylinder setup. Contact Kevin Herr...since you want someone in California...he'll do you right. Herr Juggs Racing... If you want bargain basement pricing, used parts (cubs) forums and ebay are the cheapest place to buy....period!

Some people just need to put a gun in their mouth and pull the trigger...before they further taint society...

I'd like to see a few more pictures of that banshee on your site...since it looks like it has Shearer out of frames... Pro Circuit pipes for top end? You're kidding...right?

What year is the bike...moreso, what year is the wiring harness. Got a good flywheel off it?

Ok... What do you want to do? Where do you ride? You've got to have a budget in mind of some sort. If you're looking for "I'm broke pricing" you have to start out with a budget. Otherwise, you could just say....5 K, get it all. Are you current cylinders ported? What is your current setup? are there any things you can reuse off your current setup? The reason I ask is this... Some people ride tight trails, they think they need 100HP, when in reality they should be looking for tires, suspension, etc., before even thinking about putting 100HP out of the motor (note I said out of the motor, not getting it to the ground.... ) Some guys bounce around dunes all day, but think they need 100HP on alcohol....when alcohol in the dunes is almost pointless because of how much you have to consume to run...unless you don't go further than a few miles.. That's why I'm asking, instances like that...so we can better help you.

I take it you need them for stock carbs?

I know I'm going to sound like a jerk saying this, but....keep in mind, I've built two of them. Wait. Whatever you budget for, you'll spend double. Just because you can afford to get the cylinder, etc. Doesn't mean you have the money for a modded tranny, clutch, swingarm, rear shock, pipes, carbs, intakes...etc. It adds up very, very quick. A smart man once said...you can go broke trying to save money. You'll end up spending money on something you cut corners on...it won't perform at all, or very poorly...and you'll cash out halfway through the build. What is your total budget, and what all parts do you need to get. Several folks here can tell you if it's doable or not....

If anyone could do it, Walmart would sell it. All you need to say. Anyone can do a clean up port. Just smooth out some edges and clean up factory casting flaws.... But any real porting, changing dimensions, specs, timing, etc....should be left to someone with better experience and knowledge. Keep in mind, the CR has a Nikasil coated cylinder, does he know how tough that stuff is to port through, especially with a DREMEL? I'm all for experimenting yourself...but he needs to plan on buying a new or used cylinder in case he totally hoses it up.

I too would wait a year or two for the FI to work the bugs out... Plus, it's going to take a year or two for the aftermarket to catch up and build quality, tested parts for it as well... They are going to go through growing pains with an aluminum frame like anyone else..but they'll make it right. I'll be in the market for a second quad in a couple years (duner/play bike)...this would be at the very top of my list...

Shearer, IMO...have the nicest design as far as drag pipes go for an inframe pipe. They are like T5's on steroids, you can get to your plugs and fuel valve easy, they bend over the carbs and air filters so they clear the pods...but they are a top end screaming pipe. Tyler...here's that post. There was no conclusion, a guy asked about GRR pipes he got on ebay....any good, etc? http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=100911

LOL... Just goes to proove what I put in another post, user asking about GRR pipes. Pipes are one piece of a puzzle for a matched set to perform... I think CPI are ugly too, but...they work very well!

You gonna tell me those Rockets look/perform better?? LOL...

When I think of an inframe pipe, I think of the occasional drag racing duner. For a duner bike...CPI would be my personal choice... If he got serious into drag racing, out of frame pipes are the way to go....and Shearer get the nod from me for Cubs. NOW... That's not to say CPI, GRR, RDZ, Jaws or other out of frame pipes won't work, they will and can work very well. I've ran CPI and Shearer on mine...I like how mine runs on Shearer... And this is NO way to judge a pipe, but I do like the look of shearer better than the CPI pipes.

They are good pipes. Every pipe maker out there claims to make the most power, just as every vehicle manufacturer out there claims to have the best car on the road. alcoholbanshee's bikes have always impressed me for what they are...and he uses the GRR pipes exclusively. Pipes are a part of a bigger picture...tuning, setup, etc. They are just as critical as the other parts to create a good package...that works together...

Like usual...your stupidity has taken over.... I for one could tell you how to get them to idle....but like the rest of your website antics...you're too fucking stupid to listen. A Lot of people have told you that...sure. 1 or two has...and no matter what people post here, you're still going to listen to them... Wes could very easily help you as well...he's very good with the PJs. Now go fuck yourself.

Take the top end off and check everything... Could be either or both of those, plus/minus more. The only thing you can do is take it apart, inspect, measure....and measure again once it's put together. Air leaks and incorrect fuel/not enough fuel are engine killers....period.

PJs won't idle on methanol....nice one... Talk to new people that have a clue on how carbs work and how to tune them. Put 39 PWK or 40mm Lectrons on it....a 4 mil drag bike will handle that big of a carb all day long on methanol. Then again...maybe you should ask the folks that can't get PJs to idle what carb to run...

1 into two are perfectly safe and great for a trail bike... There are a few companies that make the kit, and I've never heard a builder say they're unsafe or favor one side or the other. An old V8 car has a single spot for a carb that feeds 8 cylinders, and they last for hundreds of thousands of miles...I'd think if they "favored a cylinder" they'd have problems too...