dajogejr

Not into bikes or 4 strokes, but that is one damn clean ass bike. Is that one of the Bigelow bikes...or one of the Magic Racing bikes?? That is one nice ride!!

Per the forum rules, please post actual items for sale and a price along with them.

There are plenty of people that port nikasil without it being stripped off, and they work fine. Now...is it easier to port w/o nikasil, yes...sure is. Would builder rather do it that way...? Yes...sure would. With patience, a steady hand and the right tools, you can port through the nikasil. But you're right....it's not something a beginner should be doing....

I would buy this for 3K in a heart beat. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...amp;qpid=871245

Returned...thanks Tim. If you could email pics of the stator and Flywheel, I'll send payment right now. My buddy is going through NIGHTMARES with electrical...and wants to make sure it's not rusted out stuff... As long as it's in good shape, consider it sold...(doing lunch in a few...so, can paypal after once I get pics...) Thanks a bunch!!!!

With a +8 you should be able to launch in second and give it hell. Your 60's are way off...they should be closer to mid 1 second... (1.50 to 1.70) Give it more gear on the back (Larger sprocket)...it will launch harder and get the 60s down.

Based on .059 squish...run it, UNLESS Kevin Herr specifically tells you otherwise...it's his port design.

Tim, let me know what you have left of the ignition system, mainly....CDI, Harness, Coil, Stator and Flywheel... Thanks!!

Same kit that Bob @ RB Porting makes on ebay??

Greg... I know that's not an exact science....it's not even close.. That method doesn't take into effect the angle of the dome, etc... It would be like telling a machinist to use a tape measure.. I use the solder with a soft core (squishes easier) to measure, and I take 4 to 5 measurements per side to check for squish and band. If you can get them both to 17.5 as the length of what is squished...that'd be fine. Also, check the squish in a few spots. Near the outer edge will be thinner, probably thicker slightly as you come to the center of the cylinder.

IMO, with equal skill riders on a flat drag, bolt on mod for bolt on mod, the YFZ will win in a drag race. With a few bolts ons, the banshee can reel him in and pass him on top...but that's after a ways when the YFZ is topped out. Once you dip into porting, the banshee really shines....and the comparisons for drag racing end there.

I'd be more concerned about it being 5mil off on the band instead of the clearance.....

Travis.. talking about the LARGE square stuffers that cacade sells. http://67.199.65.66/cascade_innovations/ne...tore_dept_id=83

Apparently, neither is spell check....who cares, more with the T&A!!! Doc...nice one....

Run it. Crank the timing up a bit. What is the squish band in mm? (The length of the squished area?) Also...did you check the squish on both sides, left to right, NOT Front to back to get an accurate number? Run it. I run .055 to .056 on my bike...and I used to think mid to upper .040's was the magic number to shoot for. Run it. Running a thinner base gasket will bring that number down. It will also lower port timing... Run it.

Save the money, get it trued and welded. I would take a stock trued and welded crank over aftermarket anyday.....

In my experience, I've seen Stators go bad quicker and more often than CDIs. STICK WITH OEM Stators if that is the case. Ricky Stator is JUNK....period. Good luck!

Those pipes are worth every penny 250 plus shipping. Put them on ebay.... If they were old and rusty....yeah, 2 bills. They're new and you're including 20 bucks worth of unopened packaging. Ebay those pipes before you take in in the arse.... I got 250 plus for a set of Bills that weren't that nice or new.

The 2 and 3 cages were dyno'd long before the "stuffers" were widely accepted or even being made by cascade...

Kevin... Hit up NYUK. He's pulling a running motor as we speak...

The carbs slides will go in and seat in either carb, but only one is correct. The cutaway is for idle and starting...so that's why I said check them...

Ideally, you want to be at the top of your top gear going through the traps. My advice is gear it down a few teeth in the rear if you're going through the traps in 5th with throttle to go. Have you tried launching in 2nd gear??? Odd you have such tall gearing, I think I need like 18/36 for mine....

VF2s and 3s both have their pros and cons. 2's make a couple more HP on the dyno...nothing you'll see at the track. However They have screws which can come out and hose a motor fast (which is why you loctite them!!) and because they are the older design, they're becoming harder to find replacements. 3's don't make the dyno HP 2s do...(again, won't see that on the track) and...that's about it.... OH, and they're pricey....LOL.

Have you tried changing the air screw setting? Is it almost closed? Is the choke tube between the carbs....and lastly, do you have the slides in the right carbs (half moon shaped cut a way should be facing the rear of the bike) Any of the above can make for near impossible starting.

He's using a 1 into 2 carb setup, 33mm carb. snopcyzinski is good with the 1 into twos, but from my reading....they take a HUGE main to run both cylinders compared to the normal twin setup. Probably need a richer needle too. I think (on a PWK or Keihin type carb) 190 is a starting point.