dajogejr

The only time I saw bigger jets in one of the carbs was on a 660 Raptor...they have a 5 valve head. One carb fed two valves, one carb fed one. So....that's the only exception to the rule. As said, figure out if it's dirt or an air leak causing one side to be leaner.

You only bore the next size needed to get your piston/cylinder clearances within spec. Call Kevin to see how much he charges and his turn around time.... http://www.herrjugsracing.com/ Your bike is 40 to 45 HP right now...give or take. You can get as much HP as your wallet can afford.

Could be the crank out of phase, flywheel rivets coming loose, or worn motor mounts.

Pull the reed cages out...check for chipped or cracked reeds. Drain all the gas, remove the fuel valve from the tank, make sure the pickup screens are clogged with shit. Make sure the vent line is working on the gas tank. If it's black and carbon'd all up, one of two things. It's getting too much fuel, or it's not getting enough spark to ignite it all. When you say you cleaned the carbs...did you actually remove each one, remove everything in the carbs, including the needle and seat, all the brass, etc., and use carb or brake clean.. Or did you just take the bowls off and spray them off. Holes that are a few thousands big can get plugged and make it for bad/rough running...I usually use a speaker wire, etc. to clean some passages and pilot jets, etc.

ASK JIM.... He set up your motor...there is no magic number. You can either trial and error, or ask the builder who has taken the time to figure that out for you. There are averages what people run, some like more, some like less. But ultimately, it is up to the builder. Squish is only one part of building an engine when it comes to clearances, math, timing, etc.

Time for an override. Everything can be brand new...in perfect adjustment. You're putting 2.5 times the power to that tranny that is was made for...AND you're using a lockup clutch...which is REALLY preventing it from shifting under load. You have two options... Ditch the lockup and run stiffer springs, or keep it and get an override. No amount of new parts or adjustments are going to make a difference....on a stock tranny, 75HP and a lockup. I had a 4 mil cub with NO lockup, no override pushing roughly 90 HP, give or take. Would not shift for crap most of the time....override and lockup, only way to fly. Sounds like you're a prime candidate for a dunable override. Can ride it like a normal tranny....but full power WOT upshifts without the clutch when you want to drag race....

A few tenths??? Say WHAT??? You mean a few thousandths, if that.... I ran my FAST clutch the first year in a stocker motor on 80W gear saver, next year on 80W gear saver in my 4 mil cub, last year on ATF and this year on ATF, it lasted 3 and a half years....steels finally started to blue, so I figured it was due to retire, and I still keep it as a spare. You're fine changing oils, ATF is cheaper and more readily available....you just have to change it more often. I highly recommend a magnetic drain plug as well.

WOW....that's a first fo sho.....WOW

As some of you know, the first race ever at Ionia Sand Drags was rained out...BIG TIME. This track and facility have the opportunity to be one of the best in the country, period. For all the rain that we got, I was absolutely amazed at how hard the track crew and sponsors worked to try and get the track in good shape and get this race underway... Those of us that were lucky enough to test and tune all day Friday in the on/off rain had a blast, I can't imagine how much fun it's gonna be with a dry track. Here's the banner, followed by a few pics with just a SMALL taste of what you'll see. Please come out if you can, a good time will be had by all!!!

X4.... I gotta see this carnage as well. I've heard of cracking the pipe, popping a spring off, etc....but never busting off the exhaust port on the cylinder... How low are your pipes to where you came down and it hit? They should be angled up a bit... When my buddy wadded ass on my bike on the ice, the pipe came off the cylinder exhaust, but nothing more...in fact, the springs were still holding the pipe against the motor...

Pedo.... LOL. Hey...when I'm over 40 scoring 20 year olds, I'll be a PIMP too...LOL.

I'll give you a call as soon as I can JD... I'm so busy at work and after work....I don't have time for nothin.... NYUK said he'd hook you up with cases...I got a pressure plate you can have.

Curve 3 I believe...whichever has the most timing curve in the lower to mid RPMs. You can bump the compression a bit to for more bottom, but...it's never gonna be a four stroke.

Pipes and carbs...up for grabs... Gotta run a pump!

Dammit... 20 for all those passes is worth every penny...too. Wish I didn't have plans already....d'oh...

Alright already... C'mon, you know Dave likes 'em YOUNG....LOL. Good guy, good builder, just poking fun....didn't mean to offend anyone...

JD.. My boy has about 10 sets laying around. let me get you a price shipped.

Tests have shown HP increases by adding oil all the way to 16:1, after that the gains were minimal. The oil you put in the gas is the only lubrication it gets, from crank bearings to the wrist pins. So...let me ask you this... Aside from being "easier" to measure and cheaper to use less oil...can anyone give me a reason to run 50:1 or higher ratios? If it's because it's cheaper, you might want to find a new sport.... And no...too much oil will not foul the plugs or motor IF IT IS JETTED CORRECTLY....I don't care if you put through trails or race it WOT. Leaner mixtures do not make the motor last longer or make it faster, so other than being cheap...why run less oil? I'm not trying to sound like a dick, I'd like honest answers...

Doing it without the idle screws will work in a pinch, but as said, you need a little slack. You can buy the screws only from Vitos. Make sure you get the correct drill and tap...and you have to grind the boss flat so the lock washer has somewhere to rest/lock...and so the idle screws actually hit the slide and raise/lower it for desired idle speed. ASR... Remove the carbs. Look in the back of the carb...and turn the idle screw all the way in. If they are not raising the carb slide, the boss is not ground down far enough. Here's the screws from Vitos... http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/...php?mode=search Here's the tap, drill and screws http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/...at=0&page=1

If it's leaking out the bottom tube, remove the drain screw completely, clean that out with carb or brake cleaner, then tighten it back down. If it's leaking out of the two tubes on either side of the bike, then it's the floats. Those are the overflows...the single tube on the bottom serves as a drain tube. These are on stock carbs, I'm assuming.

I'd rather run rich then run some garbage oil at like 50:1 or leaner... Buy a ratio rite. They're less than 10 bucks, and they are perfect for measuring your oil to dump in the fuel can.

Did you let it warm up before you went for a rip? First, put new plugs in. Second, remove and drain the carbs/clean them if necessary Third...let it dry out, possible wire wet??

Unless you're into drag racing and duning (no medium to big sized jumps) there is no reason to run a .125 rim. .160 is what you want.

More gearing usually requires more HP to push, once you get to a certain point. 60 seems a little low with the mods, but 100 ain't happening until you put some work into it...period. I'm 250lbs, and in 300 feet, riders that weigh 125 to 170 lbs consistently turn 3 to 4 MPH faster than me, and that's in 300 foot.... Take off the front and rear fenders, that's worth another 2 to 3 MPH no joke....

It's homecoming time....he might be combing the local high schools looking for a date.