dajogejr

Judging by the mods in your sig....I don't think you need one yet Bode..maybe just stiffer springs.

Ok... The topic is what to build, you don't have a clue or hold water...so your post and so called expertise about this holds no water. Like I've said before...when you have a bunch of court Jesters running around...it's pretty easy to fall into being the king. King of shit. When either of you actually does something impressive on your own, not buy an already built bike (that you manged to shit talk about 2 out of the 3 of them)...then you might have a chance. Shit, not even then. I'm trying to do the original poster a favor by showing him what a clown you two are...luckily, you do that all on your own with little or no help. How you like that topic?

You clowns wouldn't know a fast bike if it fell in your lap. OH wait....Tylers, Curts and Mark's bikes did. Don't you guys have a kick starter to rebuild or something??

You won't notice a difference. I always use a thin coat of RTV on the intake side for every gasket...

Obviously...as I'm sure you know....they make a stealth undercover one and a normal one. The stealth replaces your pressure plate too. I think you have to cut the nubs off the inside of the stock cover.. Kevin Gigot could tell you....

To set air screws. Warm the bike up. Start with the air screws 1/2 turn out each. Go for a ride. Turn each screw out 1/4 turn...wait 30 seconds for the adjustment to "take effect" Go for a ride. Repeat until you get the highest idle possible by adjusting the air screws 1/4 turn at a time. If you have them turned out from seated (all the way in) less than one full turn out.....get bigger pilots. Put fresh gas in the bike if you haven't already. Put new plug caps on the coil leads.

2 strokes or 4....a carb is a carb. Each circuit blends in with the prior and next circuit. If your main is that fat..Can effect your needle just past 1/2 throttle. It's hard to tune in a bike with the mains real far off. I don't think you're that far.... Lean the needle, see what happens.

3rd....

EVERY motor is different. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html There are 6 different clip positions on the Dynojet needles for Toomey...and they include a washer as a "half" adjustment. If you've been through all of those clips....then I say change the needles out...but you're supposed to start at the 4th clip from the blunt end. Move it to the 3rd from the blunt end...try again. The toomey needles to richen up the mid throttle....

What kind of motor are you running, and what kind of riding do you do?

Word. I use a thin coat of RTV, ANY RTV, on either side of both gaskets, per side. I know the gasket alone should be enough...but with how bad air leaks are for these, what's 10 extra minutes to put a skim coat on the gaskets? The reed cages and intakes need to be sealed....

You pay for bling. Or you could go to Aco, Ace, Home Depot, etc., and pay about 35 to 50 cents each....

They are mistaken.... Piston type makes up the 5mm offset, not the domes. He needs 4 mil stroker domes...the dome is cut 2mm deeper to compensate for the 2mil extra stroke at TDC. Unless he wants to run a 10 mil crank with sleeves...then he could cut the domes 5mm to make up for the sleeves sticking out of the top...but that's another story. Long rod and stroker crank are two separate things, each requiring something different to make them work.

The two brown ones seal the water from the combustion chamber, they're for the domes. The larger black pair seal the outer edge of the bottom shell. The small ones seal the studs between the halves, the single large one seals the two halves together. Two small black ones seal the top of the domes to the upper shell... And the last one seals the water neck to the back of the head. Use Acorn nuts and a dab of RTV on each nut before you torque and tighten it down to help prevent leaks.

GET RID of that junk Ricky Stator. And yes, water can short it out. While you have the flywheel off, shake it. Make sure you don't hear ANYTHING. I've had flywheel magnets break apart on the inside and have it break up at higher RPMs. Are you using the thread in type or jaw type puller for the flywheel?

Nice looking ride.... That white/Red looks VERY familiar....LOL. Good luck.

IMO..yep...he's got more HP, more weight for traction, and four strokes hookup. If he can ride worth a shit...yes, he's gonna beat you, especially up to 60MPH.

JT and I are both "husky" riders... He has a very well setup and fast 4 mil cub done by FAST. It runs good...it runs nearly the same times as my 10 mil. My 10 mil has never run against his ported (it's on it's way back to me now), but I maintain my stance good porting on a cub is worth a handful of HP. When JT and I both put lighter riders on our bikes, same thing. Times are very, very close...often less than a tenth. He and I both have the lightweight goodies, chassis, drag axles, etc. He finally got enough tire for his bike... I think JT will agree with me, and Jeff probably will too...that for a heavier rider it is easier to go fast and go fast more consistently on a 10 mil. They are a little more forgiving than a 4 mil. You have to decide if the extra money for a 10 mil crank and case trenching is worth that....that is the difference. That 4 mil is a great bang for the buck for sure. Some will tell you to run big bore pipes or small bore on EITHER motor...so, that's a non-factor. Talk to YOUR BUILDER on which to run.

I will be happy to list out everything in my 10 mil. It has been by far the most reliable motor I've ever had, and it's had the living daylights abused out of it by a dozen riders, literally. Here's the thing....which I didn't read. What is your budget? What do you already have in the way of clutch, trans, intakes, exhaust, carbs, swingarm, chain, etc. Lastly, do you want to dune mostly and race occasionally, or race mostly, dune occasionally....dune only or race only. You can make a bike that does everything pretty well...but a bike that is setup for drag will normally be faster. That same bike will not be a duner.... If I took my lightened chassis out in the dunes with a 14 over arm...well, lets just say it would be a Youtube classic with a lot of hits real quick...LOL.

If these carbs are setup to run a pump, it would be in your best interest to run a pump... The needle and seat are much smaller on pumper carbs because they use the fuel pump pressure, not gravity, to fill them. While bigger bowls will help, they might not fill fast enough...especially on longer runs. If you have a picture, we can probably tell you if they're gravity or pumper carbs....

Props to Lowbuck for getting this done and putting it together....amazing, just amazing!! :thanks: :notworthy:

Why don't you contact the place you bought the pistons and see if they'll exchange them. Offer to pay a 10% restocking fee....you'd probably lose more than that on Ebay....

And I thought I had a shoulder to cry on here....sniff, sniff... :biggrin:

That might be the funnies shit I've seen ever....awesome!!!

Just remember, when it's throwing roost in trails that means the tires are spinning...not good. 4 strokes hook up better, period. Their torquey nature and power curves just grip the ground. That's why it's hard to beat a 450 out of the hole, much easier to control and feed the power to the rear wheels...