dajogejr

You knew I was gonna see this thread....Loco...LOL. I'm on the other side of the coin. I've used 39PWKs and 40mm Packard Lectrons on my 10 mil alky cub, and I'll never go back to PWKs... In my opinion, here's the pros and cons of each: Keihin PWK Pros: Very common Cheap for parts Cheap priced carb A LOT of people running them, bigger support base Cons: Jets to buy and/or Drill if you run methanol Can not be converted from methanol back to gas, Dump tubes are not replaceable, so if you drill it for alky, you're stuck with it. Can not change needle and seat from fuel pump to gravity fed Pilot jets to buy, Needles to buy, Mains to buy and drill. Must remove the bottom float bowl or drain plug to change mains, must remove bowl to change pilots Lectrons: Pros: Easier to tune ONCE YOU GET THE PROPER NEEDLE/Metering Rod. Can not stress this enough, the right needle is key. No mains, pilots. Just a needle and a power jet. Can change from alky to gas and back with the change of the metering rod/needle All changes made from the top of the carb, no need to take the float bowl off unless you switch needle/seat from gravity to fuel pump Can change Needle and seat from gravity to fuel pump Better design, easier to adjust, run more cleanly From 80 degree summer to 0 degree winter riding, barely had to adjust them...much more consistent fuel delivery due to design. Cons: Expensive Not nearly as many people run them, there are only two distributors in the US for them, Packard and Fast By Gast. They are not conventional, so...slight, albeit easy, learning curve. Getting the correct needle/metering rod is key. Without that, the carb will never tune or run right. Not as large of a support base for them. Parts are more expensive. As said, I've run both, you'd have to pry the Lectrons from my hands. Several people that have ridden my bike comment how crisp and clean it runs...and a few have bought Lectrons because of it. I would say I'm fairly strong in carb tuning...so after a bit of advice from Lectron users and some reading up on them...I got the hang of them pretty easily. I can not stress enough, if you don't have the correct needle/metering rod, it will never run right. That is the key, and it causes some to get very easily disturbed and distracted by them...compound that with the price. The Lectrons I have are top notch quality in finish and craftsmanship. But my carbs are only a year or so old....

Head gasket if he's got a stock head, Oring if he's got an aftermarket head. See it all the time...if you're lucky, it just runs like poo and pops the ring. But it can very easily do more damage. Pull the head after you drain the coolant.

I would not insult this bike or motor by putting stock pipes on it. Stock carbs, fine...but stock pipes? YOu can find good used pipes, chrome or black...not in perfect cosmetic condition for 100 to 250 bucks all day long. At least pipe it.... Very clean, nice setup It looks like whomever welded that crank did a pretty nice weld job, not just some bird shit weld on top...nice.

Awesome...just awesome!

Bon Bon is correct...thank you. That's why I quoted big red rocket scrubber. None of the negativity is meant towards you whatsoever... Just don't pull any of that I want a hug shit on me now, ok? :biggrin:

Some nicely ported stockers will go perfectly with the mods you already have (pipes, carbs) Tell Brandon it's a stroker and have him get you cut domes for it instead of running a spacer plate. That motor will be fun and easy to ride as well as fast enough to kick up some dirt. Think about a dunable override while you're at it...

Unless you have good reason to believe it's getting hot (puking coolant, VERY VERY hot cylinders, etc.) I don't think your jetting is ridiculously fat to where that's gonna cause overheating. Smart man to start off fat and work down...cub motors love a lot of fuel....

You'll find the big difference is the small mom and pop shops will do it cheaper, but will not have as many colors. Offer to buy the powder (it's CHEAP) and they'll give you a good deal. Plan on spending 150 to 250 for a frame which includes prep work and everything. DEGREASE the frame and bring it to them spotless....they will appreciate that big time. they don't want to clean up your mess. I think I paid 300 to 350 for frame, engine cases, front spindles and front hubs. Translucent Red, it is a chrome base as well...

That's just great. On top of that, even though English is and has been our official language...which you must know to become a legal citizen...they offer other languages for signing up on the website. WTF!!!!!

My guess as well. Keep an eye on this thread for installation tips/tricks. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=108521

That...or when it falls DIRECTLY into your oil/antifreeze drain pan. That's my personal favorite...drove around all day one time to try and match it up, thought I lost it. Couldn't find it. Then got home and moved my drain pan and heard "something" rolling around inside. Oh boy....LOL. Leave the cable disconnected from the perch OR the arm on the disengagement lever...you only need to apply pressure from your hand to adjust it properly....

If you still have your T6, put them on...try them.

I would agree...if he's got that kind of wallet. With the cheetah you're also shelling out for a new head and new intakes and new reeds as well.

If it was BIG TIME rich...yes. Unburnt fuel builds up...etc. USUALLY, it'll just foul plugs. But if you're just dumping fuel in..yes...it can overheat, even hydro lock if a float/needle/seat sticks and fills it up. But that's a different scenario. Electrical issues are the absolute worst.

This is a very easy answer, however....it requires one question. How much do you have to spend??

Start checking the coil, CDI and most importantly the Stator. If the bikes starts acting up after it's been ridden for a while, most of the time that's an electrical issue which makes it feel like jetting. I think you're jetted a little rich myself, but...if it runs fine at first, then acts up, I'd be looking electrical...

All the power in the world will do you no good if you can't use it and/or get it to the ground. You can get more peak HP out of a cub more easily. A select few builders can get cub like numbers out of stock cylinders. When that's done...you've got more money into them, more time...etc. And it's a drag bike motor. If you talked to a builder and they said dune port....why are you stuck on cub? It's easier to get more power by bolting on a cub. That doesn't mean that's the right "type" of power for your application.

If that means he doesn't get your business...that's the best decision FAST Racing has ever done. Here's a thought fuckstick, two of the builders that I KNOW you use don't offer purchasing on their website either. A&S Racing, K&T Performance, Packard Enterprises, McCoy's Performance, Dave Moore Racing....ever hear of any of them? They don't offer purchasing on their website either. But of course you're probably better at building engines than any one of those world class, record holding builders, right? Don't you and GregBJ has a kickstarter to go rebuild. What kind of business could he run? Hmm....Amateur bike rigging, antelope guided tours...... Grim Reaper...it's a business choice. If all he did was sell parts like a parts warehouse, that would make sense. But since he is a builder, he'd rather talk to you to make sure you're getting what you need. Different parts work better for different packages...and when putting something together it's real easy to forget a gasket here, sealer there....etc. That's personal service.... I guess a checkout shopping cart is smart enough to tell you that. Then again, if you just bought your bikes that actually run instead of build them yourself, you wouldn't know anything about that...

What about the adjustment at the lever on top of the cases. Is that adjusted?

Do you have porting done to your cylinders? If not...and it's slipping, there's a few reasons it could be: worn clutch misadjusted clutch Not changing fluid often enough (80W Gear saver oil is just fine) Worn clutch components (inner hub, pressure plate and/or basket) Garbage cheap clutch

Yeah...check on those prices, not to be a dick. The carrier brand new from JJ&A is 200. The Axle is 650, again...new. For 650 bucks that better be a titanium polished swinger....

That is one HELLUVA Idea.... I agree that needs to support the shift Shaft. What about cutting a piece out but holding it in place with a screw/hold down bracket? Something easier than taking off the foot peg and shifter, please....

Nope...so when you're moving around on the bike they don't flap like bird wings.... Drive around with your car doors open...you'll get my drift.

Selfless promotion...

Do you still have this phone, and can I get close up pictures of any nicks, scratches, etc? Cash in hand to buy right now.