dajogejr

Yep...Jeff @ FAST. His clutch lasted me three years. I decided to try something else for 2008, a stock Raptor clutch for my drag bike. It lasted a year. So...yeah, I'll be calling up Jeff here in a bit when I'm ready to get another one of his clutches.

660's are a joke compared to a 700 in stock vs. stock trim....or even just pipes to just piped. Like anything else...the more $$ you dump into them...the faster they go....

Your banshee isn't ported but you've raced two that are and you've beat them over and over (10 times). A. The porting isn't for shit. B. They can't ride for shit. C. They weight 300 lbs, you weigh 150. D. They have bald tires, you don't. Anyone that went from a stock port shee to a decent ported shee will tell you it's 100% night and day difference...not even close. So for you to beat so called ported banshees over and over again....there's something else wrong. 660 Raptors are a joke...the 700s are damn near neck and neck with the 450s. Are you beating all the 450s with your piped stock port banshee? Guys...I realize this is a banshee site, and I'm just as gungho about them as anyone if not moreso. I guess you guys just have slower Raptor 700s over there, or we have slower banshees over here....

No offense, but you asked.... A bone stock 700 rappy should spank you in a drag with your mods. Worse yet with a pipe. So...it could be any of the following: Rosie O Donnell sized Jockey (300 lbs), improperly tuned, shitty rider, or all of the above.... Slick tires? Of course that's going to make a huge difference....

Don't get a warranty, get a refund....

sorry Joe... For some reason I thought you were going cub with bigger carbs...didn't realize you were running OEM cylinders and 35PWKs. You can grind down the float bowl drain screw, you can bend the clutch arm down ( you can do a combo of these two) or you can buy the intakes with the crossover built in to space it away...

I have Dan @ Patriot cut my domes. Very happy with them. And yes...I prefer to run domes cut specifically for alky. Gas and Alky have different burn rates and explosion properties...

I would rather have a plate with gradient marks rather than guestimating how much advance I'm giving it...but that's just me. I think you can only get 4 or 5 out of the stocker, what if the motor wants 7 or 8? Speaking of..just moved my stator to this. Strength of billet, half the price of a pro-design. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Banshee-606...sQ5fAccessories

MPH alone isn't a tell tale of how well it runs or if it runs correctly... I'd run a spacer if I HAD to...but I'd much rather have the port timings corrected and run cut domes.

I run the large BOSS intakes with no crossover. They actually move the carbs closer to the motor vs. thicker, crossover built in intakes I had prior...which I like.

Swingarm bearings I can see...axle bearings, if you let them get that worn to the point it throws a chain...sorry, just neglect in my book. If you can't feel those bearings, vibration, etc. going bad...who knows what else you don't know about that's going on inside the engine, etc.

My chain has only been thrown once...and it was because it went from about 60 MPH on a drag strip to 0 in about 10 feet...it didn't like that. Excess wear and slack are the major players. If rear bearings were so badly worn that they cause the axle to actually creep toward the foot peg when you gas it...then maybe. But you'd have to be an idiot to let them get that worn in the first place....

Quite possibly the ONLY thing you've every posted that was worth a shit.....

NOD32 and Kaspersky are the tops in AV and mal/spyware. NOD32 you can have a free, fully functional 30 day trial as well.

How soon are you looking to buy one? I have a complete, powdercoated, lightened frame with ALL Chrome accessories (arms, tie rod ends, swingarm, etc.) that I will be selling in about a month or so.... I have a new chassis being built as we speak, so...not selling my old till I have my new...but, it'll be for sale with all the goodies except axle and carrier... 14 over chrome swingarm (metaltech) and wheelie bar setup as well.

Run it stock first. Go from there. You'll have to figure if you're shifting too often or fast or if bogs at the beginning of each gear and takes too long to wind out. If you do more wide open/fast riding, one tooth bigger on the front will probably be about right, or two smaller on the rear. But I would honestly try stock first...go from there.

I got my bike back together the night before a race, started it up at the track the next day and it was only running for literally a minute or two. I noticed a LOT of heat by my shins.... I put my hand down there, and the cylinders were hot (this is an alky bike, mind you....they take a little while to build heat, even in spring/summer temps) I was at the staging line, shut the bike off.... I forgot to fill the radiator the night before. IF I would've actually made a pass...my bet would be I would've locked it up solid or smoked something....

Liquid filled is what you'd want, just like those. All the vibration/jolts....a normal temp gauge won't last on an off road driven vehicle like a banshee, etc. I've been thinkin' of putting one on mine because I run methanol on the ice/winter. Take a while for the motor to get some heat...that's a helluva lot better indicator than feeling the pipes and cylinder sides/head.

I would look into 35PWKs. The PJs are old school and are not as easy to adjust as the newer, more modern PWK series. That's not to say they won't work...but PWKs would be my choice personally...

Good call.

Aftermarket aren't that expensive and they hold more coolant as well.

My 10 mil cub with 180PSI plus and 11 degrees of timing is easy too... The first time it hits (cold) on meth...it'll kick back just a hair, but NOTHING scary... Otherwise, it's a breeze. Just be sure your carb aren't pouring fuel into the crankcase because of a stuck float, etc.

Take the air filter off...make sure the throttle slide isn't hanging up in the carb. or as said...air leak.

If your cylinders can not be used for a 4 mil crank....get a stock stroke cub setup. They run hard....and it'll be all drop on and bolt up. xsinnerx... My point about this gregbj clown is they've ruined perfectly well known, good running bikes. They think they have the fastest bikes and they know how to make stuff run when all they do is race each other. Turd1 vs. Turd2. Listening to him would be the equivalent of taking parenting skills from Michael Jackson, relationship advice from OJ Simpson, Mortgage Advice from Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac, or advice on how to wipe your ass from a 1 year old baby who still shits in a diaper... These guys are kings of their so claimed dunes...but in other statements, have claimed there is no one out there and they get to enjoy them all to them selves. Like I said...here's your crown King Nothing....

That company is living off the name when they used to be nice equipment. They haven't been in a long time. OEM Stators are the way to go, check ebay, the forums, etc. 2 bad Ricky Stators 2 years in a row (2nd was warrantied)....I"m done with that crap. Luckily I was smart enough to keep an OEM on hand at the track last year....