dajogejr

Sure as hell can. I took the locknut off the front marvins I have and it lowered the front end almost 2 inches total. It's about angle and leverage. a 3/4 inch thick locknut does not mean it will only lower the bike 3/4 inch...it'll be more. AND.... If these are the same cylinders I saw a bit ago, I wouldn't worry about the chip in the bottom of the sleeve. I'd make sure it was smooth with a roloc pad and run it....

Lockup lockout....same thing. Via centrifugal force it pushes against the clutch to prevent it from slipping..a la...locking it.

A pancake bearing will not help it shift any better...it ONLY prevents welding the ball to the rod. It really all depends on what you want to do, but I'd agree...at this stage in your game (current list of mods) a lockup would be pointless. http://www.bossatvracing.com/index.php?mai...;products_id=17

Jeff @ FAST is fine. Don't waste your money on a billet tranny, billet crank, billet 2nd or straight cuts. Get a TZ bearing for the PTO side. The HP you're shooting for (which should be achieved with NO problem) doesn't warrant any of that. If you were gonna spray a 30 to 40 shot to it, then I'd think about a billet 2nd, or straight cuts if you had to mod the gear ratio. If you're interested in that dunable override, PM me. Since you're gonna dune it 25% of the time, get inframes.

Jeff @ FAST is fine. Don't waste your money on a billet tranny, billet crank, billet 2nd or straight cuts. Get a TZ bearing for the PTO side. The HP you're shooting for (which should be achieved with NO problem) doesn't warrant any of that. If you were gonna spray a 30 to 40 shot to it, then I'd think about a billet 2nd, or straight cuts if you had to mod the gear ratio. If you're interested in that dunable override, PM me.

FZR1000 fibers, Barnett HD steels and HD Springs I believe, but not sure. I can tell you that that his clutch with 3 years on it, the fibers and steels were still thicker (albeit worn) than the brand new, OEM Raptor 660 clutch I put in my bike for 08...

I'm digging this... If you get the whole deal, stator cover and all, does it come with all hardware, including the nub that goes on the sprocket? I'll be calling my dealer on this one real quick..

If your lucky...if not, melt a ground strap or deto the motor....

You want a 2:1 gear ratio to run pavement...in other words, 18/36 or something similar. That's why the pavement guys get honda sprocket hubs for their axles. You can readily buy the smaller sprockets for the back. The key is if you have the motor to pull that 18 up front...if you're a heavy rider...that might be a chore for that 4 mil, even with leaving in first. I know with my luck, I'll forget to pull the clutch for 5th and 6th. I know I can gear mine with stock crank/basket gears to leave in first and have enough gear for the 1/8 mile. 1/4 might be a stretch...with only 1-5 in my motor.

Intakes cost me 90, reeds cost me 200, carbs were free.... But realistically... Intakes, 90 to 120. Reed Cages from 80 to 240 (just replacment reeds vs. VF3 cages) Gas cabs new are 320 to 350 a pair Alky conversion is about 100 a pair (if you choose to go to alky, of course) That's still a far cry from a pair of FCRs...let alone intakes, etc. And I'd liken reed cage replacement to a cam replaced on the 4 stroke, only because neither has a direct counterpart (no reeds on pokes, no valves/cams on smokers..) I don't know how much a cam(s) cost. We're just talkin, we're not arguing... I'm interested what you have to say...as long as it doesn't turn into a long, drawn out name calling, personal insult flame war. I promise I'm not a 4 stroke hater by any means. I've had some in the past, and I plan on getting one in the future. Don't know if it's gonna be a 450 based bike or a big ol 4X4 with racks, etc. but It'll be 4 poke!

Not sure where you're getting your pricing... Good carbs and intakes setup on banshees are half the price you listed. 39 carbs for a banshee are about 350. Your FCR carbs might be 1000, our PWK series aren't. You can more than double the power of a stock set of cylinders on a banshee with porting, I'm 100% certain the same can't be said for either 660 or 700. Sure...in order to take advantage of mods you need carbs, pipes, etc. And tranny mods, clutch mods, etc. But that same rule applies for both banshee and Raptor alike.... When I say it's cheaper to get a banshee faster.... A banshee to run 3.9s costs a few Gs. A Raptor is one helluva lot more than that...

Stock trannys are fine...second gear is the weakest link. Stock trannys are fine deep into the 100HP range....

Nick... It may just be me, but those look pretty clean. For the case halves, top to bottom, there is no gasket. People use a semi-drying liquid gasket like Yamabond 4 (or it's threebond equivalent) EVERYONE uses that. If he only used silicone for the water pump, no biggie. I use a thin layer of silicone RTV on each side of just about every gasket I put on my bike, especially base gasket and intakes.

LOL...mine are the same. 68 bore cub alky domes. Zero deck height... I just like the way his run in my bike...and so do a few other guys...lol.

I know what he meant by not telling which carb had what. He was talking about stripped bowl screws one of them had...but he wasn't telling which had them in case you were trying to bait and switch. I'm not saying he's right or wrong, but that's my understanding of it....that's all.

I don't know any of the involved parties except for highroller...and I'll vouch for him. Now that I got that out of the way.... Why don't you guys ALL stop talking about this race. Stop talking about this motor, stop talking about this cylinder this, this cylinder that. We have carbs that were sold not as described and wrong. Stick to the issue...the carbs. Not how billy bad ass Internet fast you are (not here anyways....this is an attempt to resolve an issue, not throw fuel on it) Stevie Wonder can see those carbs are different. NC claims to have proof these are not the carbs he shipped. Let's see this proof. Also...if that is actually the way you shipped those carbs...you should be F'in shot. Is that how you'd want shit shipped to you? Lastly....like Loco said, use a capital letter, a period...and the occasional paragraph separation when you type... WOW...Edit. Just saw page two of posts. NC..unless you can show pictures of the carbs while they were in your possession on the bike, with the ground drain bolt and shaved choke knob, you owe this guy a refund. The pictures you sent sure don't prove anything you've said thus far.

I get my domes from Dan.... I got 5 sets done, sitting on his shelf, he's waiting on me for payment... One of those sets are mine as a backup since I'm gonna bottle feed my motor sometime this year. I'm pretty sure that Wiseco Cranks and the Hot Rods cranks...as well as the crankworks and Vitos all come from the same manufacturer... Any crank you buy, wiseco, Vitos, Hot Rods, etc., should be welded, even if they came from the manufacturer welded. JT had his 4 mil split and it was welded from Wiseco. When I had my 4 mil from FAST, I asked him to reweld the crank...never gave me an issue. SoCalinIt had it after me, no issues that I know of. I would expect the unwelded cranks to separate...I'd never run an unwelded one...even in a trail bike.

I use an OEM on my 10 mil...no issues, flywheel side.

You can get a good stock crank, trued and welded with a maxload on the PTO side for around 275...every bit if not better than a wiseco. A good stock crank is 100 to 150. A good true and weld is 75ish, give or take. I think that maxload is 40ish... A good crank welder will remove the bearings to weld the pins, not just bird shit weld on top and not take the bearing off...so there should be no extra labor to press that OEM bearing off and put a maxload on if you're getting it trued and welded at the same time. Get a good, used crank out of a running bike...start there. NYUK probably has a few...and he don't sell junk.

Just an FYI...Snop. Wiseco used to make the hot rods crank...they don't any more. Hot rods still supplies the rods though. All these forged cranks come from the same place. The factory welds on the wiseco AND Hot rods cranks are garbage. The first thing I'd do is have a shop weld it right.

Most times when you get the holeshot that's everything. But a banshee that is ported and tuned right should be able to run down a banshee that is not in 330 feet...unless you half track him for sleeping out of the hole. Like most 4 pokes...they can be made fast, but it costs more money vs. similar mods for a banshee. There is no doubt there.

Aside from the fact it's fuel injected....right? You've raced both....have you rode both?

Yep. Just got that plate Saturday. I've always had the cast Ricky Stator in the past. NO issues...for a few bucks more, I like the billet. It will be a very nice bump in performance for your mods.

Walmart and Sam's club...they got everything....LOL. I use 3 or 4 distributors or manufacturers...normally whomever gets me the best price on the same item.

Good advice there!! reasonable compression and timing is the key to a long lasting motor. Stock cranks are tough as all hell...when trued and welded right. My advice to save some money is talk to NYUK and get a stock crank that is in good shape (they go for 100 to 175 bucks on average) and pay someone to true and weld it up...