NitroTate

Magnetic as it sits. The flywheel is one big magnet with a metal casing

Just my .02 but I know that broken magnets inside the flywheel can cause havock also. If the people who worked on your flywheel lately accidently dropped it, you could have cracked magnets inside. Did you try swapping out with a known good one?

Yeah, normally you would have to use the high temp powder, I've done car headers with it. I'm looking into finding out how hot the pipes get at different locations along the pipes, ie. at the exhaust ports compared to the expansion chambers etc. right now to find out if I think a normal powder will hold up and how well.

As some of you already know, I do powder coating. I'm on a tight budget right now so if anyone has the parts I need or gets discounts and you need something powder coated... hit me up! I can coat any color or style coating you want and I can do parts as big as frames. Here's what I need: -New Wiseco pistons (not sure what size yet but soon) -New chain (not sure of length yet but will soon) -New Cool Head O-Rings -High Flow Water pump impeller -Fuel petcock - needs to be in excellent cond. (just a standard one nothin special) -CDI -Coil -10 paddle haulers or extremes (forgot size but I can get it later) Thanks all Tate

Ok guys, my shee is appart right now so I need a favor from someone who is able to do it for me... I need to know the temperature at 3 different locations on the pipes of a banshee with toomeys or similar pipes. I know there can be a wide range of different mods that might change things but I just need ballpark numbers off of someones pipes. If you have these types of pipes and no special mods like alchohol etc. and happen to have an infrared temp gun, would you crank her up and run her as hot as she typically gets when your riding pretty hard and then shoot a temp reading for me at the following three spots I would be very appreciative!! -on the pipe right at the exhaust port -on the pipe right on the biggest part of the expansion chamber -on the silencer Thank ya, thank ya Tate

Ok let me see if I can answer all your questions in one post... :cool: My oven: It is 7' tall by 3'x3'. I got an old crappy oven off of the free section on craigslist, gutted it mounted the 2 big oven elements on the bottom, and three of the top burners about half way up the 3 walls. Wired in the oven line from the breaker box etc. The oven is built out of alluminum wall studs (the small ones don't recall size though) with rockwall as the bottom (you can get rockwall at home depot, it's cement board). The walls are covered with thin sheet aluminum from home depot it comes in rolls. Now for insulation you have to be VERY careful. Some guys may tell you to use simple house insulation (the pink stuff), I've read many many times that it can be very toxic when offgassing so I stay away from it. You need the industrial stuff that is intended for ovens so this will be the most expensive component of your oven. You need to use something like what I did, I used mineral wool from a local heating and industrial supply store. You'll need to do some research but you should be able to find it locally. Your oven is one of the most important items of PC because you really do need to be as precise with temps as possible. I can get my oven up to 500 deg. Fading: I'm not sure when I'll be doing a fade again but if I do I'll definitely take some pics. Maybe I'll fade my axle from blue to black or something?? Blaster: I just made a cabinet from MDF and put a hole in the bottom to sweep out the media. Put the cabinet on legs with casters and a lid on top with some plexiglass. Made arm holes and then took an old sweatshirt and cut the arms off and stapled/duct taped them into the holes. Cut a hole in the left side of the box to connect my vacuum hose and a small hole in the right side to pull air in. Then a hole to run the blast hose into. I use a 50# pot blaster. My compressor is less than adequate so I hate blasting stuff until I get a bigger compressor. It's about 4' wide, 2' deep, and about 4' tall on the back wall and a little shorter on the front wall so the top tilts toward your face so you can see in. My trick though is to chemical strip stuff first because it would take weeks of blasting to get a frame done.

I have full metal ribbed flexible radiator hose on mine. They're chrome right now but I'm going to PC them blue. I really like them, they're durable, finned (sort of) and I'm sure radiate some heat out. It's almost like having one of those "inline coolant radiator peices" as your entire line.

You know I have run out of room to have any kind of booth, especially for the big stuff I do, so I have just been cleaning up really well and hanging my parts from the garage celing and shooting in the open. I don't try to reclaim. Some day I hope to figure out some kind of collapseable booth or something...

Here's a few pics to look at: Here's a fade I did for a friend: Heres a Swingarm I did in super gloss black: Heres a teapot for my wife: Translucent blue over chrome 22 inch wheels I did yesterday: Translucent black over chrome: My oven:

I don't do it for a living but I've been doing it for about 5 years now. Usually you don't worry about trying to get your line at the same level but you can, it just takes more time. You would have to start with the bare metal and totally tape off one side, do that color then repeat for the other sides color. For fading you can't mix the color to fade, I've done it two different ways, if you want the two colors to melt in together then hang your part and spray the top half color first while trying not to get too much on the bottom half, then very carefully blow off the overspray on the bottom half, then change colors and carefully spray downwards on the bottom half then bake. The other way is to spray one half with your first color and make sure to go a little ways past your half way mark. Bake it, let it cool all the way, then shoot the other half. Then take a soft bristle brush and a little compressed air and carefully brush away the unwanted overspray in as even a pattern as you want and when you're happy with the look, bake it. And I've never had anyone that wanted to bring me their own powder but I wouldn't care as long as they understand what they are dealing with. If it's really old powder or a really cheap brand or something it may not turn out as good as it could etc. I prefer Tiger Drylac, Columbia Coatings, Eastwood, or Caswell Coatings myself. Powder coating is a blast!

I looked into that a long time ago and If I remember correctly they are not rated to the temps that a banshee will impose on them. I could be wrong though...Anyone else?

Ahhh, Ok got it. Thanks!

Hey Chase, just out of curiosity and because I have J-Arms on mine. What did you want them for? I really don't know the main advantages between the two types to be quite honest and have kicked around the idea of converting but can't really seem to justify the cost. I only do dune riding and they've never seemed to cause me any trouble. Are the A-Arms primarily better for MX or jumping etc.? But still back to my orig. question, did you want his J-Arms for a particular performance reason??

LOL, Yeah I understand that the transfers etc. are more important than the intake itself. I was really just curious how much was done to mine because it looked like something had been done but didn't look like it was very drastically changed so I'm pretty sure I'm going to get them done more.

cool thanks BigRed, hey I sent you PM earlier on Dunereview...FYI

Yeah I think I'm going to. I know a couple people who will port for me but not sure who I'm going to send them to. My buddy I work with is one of the main timing and scoring officials for supermoto races accross the country and he has a good freind who is a Banshee guru. You guys may know him, (shit for all I know he may be a member on HQ...?) His name is Tom but I think he lives out east somewhere now, used to live here in Colorado. But I do still have a local option here in Colorado, Jason from Berthoud (can't remember what his screen name is on HQ sorry...). I'm trading him some powder coating for a few parts here and there so he might be willing to hook me up also. Either way I'm definitely going to get them done. (if I can afford it... broke as a joke right now :ermm: ) the wifey got laid off

Ok, that's kind of what I figured. I've seen pics of agressive ports and this just didn't look like it was ported very much. What do worm holes do for performance, just curious. Thanks!!

Ok guys, I haven't messed with porting really at all before, even though I've rebuilt these motors quite a few times and this is the only banshee I've ever owned (had her for 7 years now). So with this said, I've never seen a stock (non-ported) cylindar before so I don't know how to recognize the difference of a mildly ported one... The guy who owned it before me said that it had been ported and that the initials engraved in the side of the cylindars (DBP) stood for D&B Porting. I can tell these aren't very heavily ported but can any of you tell if they are ported at all?? If you think they are, what kind of port do you think they might be? (ie. dune, drag, etc.)

That's cool, I appreciate that man. Hey I just sent you a PM on Dunereview...

Hey guys question... I know "Boost Bottles" are a joke but I had one on my banshee for a long time and just never removed it. I'm rebuilding right now and I'm going to remove it but wanted to see what your recommendation was for the carbs... Should I plug the holes or do you think it's important enough to put in a crossover tube for equalization?

Ok so I started the teardown today. I filmed a large amount of it too and managed to get all the way to taking the motor out before I quit. So next is to tear the motor down. I was surprised at my compression after about 5-6 years it's still sitting at 150 psi on one side and about 145-148 on the other... :cool:

Oh yeah I'm the same way, I started doing things like that too and realize just how close to "professional" you can get. I also have connections for graphic design and disc reproduction if you wanted to take it that far... :cool: At any rate it's fun to do and I'm more than willing to be of help. Looking forward to putting it together!

Also one of our videographers is one of the main camera men for Rocky Mountain PBS and does a great job so he could give us some really good experience and pointers too. I've already learned a lot from him, cool kid and very eager to do action video.

I know, it's killing me. I was going to take my shee to the carwash today to degrease it so I could tear the motor out and start the rebuild but it's been snowing like mad all day... Not sure if I want to start tearing it down with it that dirty...but I want to get going on it...

Yeah, I'll probably pic it up then. And as far as the program goes, I have the adobe CS3 Master collection which includes Premier that you can use if you want, I can help you. I also have After Effects if we want to do some REALLY cool shit...