NitroTate

Figures, shit, oh well I'll get it looking good. thanks

Ok guys gotta question, why is it that some people cut out the sections of plastic off of the fronts where the tank plastic and the grill plastic hook in with those little flanges?? See this pic. I bought a used front plastic from a guy and when I got it the little slots that the other two pieces of plastic hook into have been cut out??? Is there a reason for this because now the plastics don

I finally got it!!!! I ended up flushing it out completely and then standing the bike upright to get the calipers higher than the master cylinder and finally got it. thanks for the help guys. I have no idea where the guy before me got that junction but I really like having it all in the handlebar lever.

Here you go, not the best pic...

Yeah let me take my laptop out to the garage, I'm about to start some work again. But I don't know where the junction came from it was on it when I bought the bike from a guy 5 years ago. As a matter of fact I was going to try to find out where it came from in case it ever breaks so I could replace it but haven't started looking yet. I love it but it's hard to get on one with a foot brake and get used to it again. Hold on about 10 min...

Believe it or not I've tried everything you guys have said except for positioning the calipers higher than the master cylinder. I did have a freind there helping as well. I don't know what is going on, but I'm going to keep trying. One thing I failed to mention is I have a "1-control" brake system setup (handlebar brake lever controles both front and back brakes, there is no foot pedal) It's simply a fluid junction box mounted right off the master cylinder and has a screw you can turn to divert the fluid creating more or less pressure on the front as apposed to the rear. However this really shouldn't make a difference because I turn the screw all the way to "Rear" and do the rear, then all the way to "front" and do them. By the way the rear brake works perfect, so the front has got to work eventually.

I worked on these damn things for 4 hours. The front calipers will not tighten up. I just put on new braded lines, I'm using a bleeder pump, I'm keeping the master cylinder full as I pump, I've got the fluid running perfectly clear with no bubbles on both sides and after bleeding each one and then closing off the bleeder screws: NOTHING!!!! No tightening of the lever at all, it stays soft and the calipers won't move. What the hell could be wrong!!! Any help is greatly appreciated.

Damn shee started tonight!!! I did find one of the problems, the damn pro design tether switch I bought is wired backward inside!!! It's not my wiring cause you can wire it both ways and still the same. Have any of you ever run into this, it must be defective. Anyway once I made sure I had a good closed circuit I sprayed some starting fluid in the intake and shee started on the first kick.

Yeah cause if it weren't, I wouldn't be getting any spark and I'm definitely getting spark.

Yep, choke tube is connected, I

Ok so just put her all back together and shee won't start Damn it!! Shee ran before the rebuild with the following: Drag pipes 290 mains clip on the 3rd position on needle 3 deg advance key NOW: changed to T5's didn't change anything in carbs or needles added adj. timing plate (still had to use degree key) but plate is set at 0 right now. reed spacers added I've got good spark Don't know if the timing could be a prob or not? Doesn't seem to be getting fuel even though I can smell it when kicking Pulled plugs, not very wet My diagnosis is that it's either not getting fuel or not getting enough, So my question is; if I'm not getting fuel what normally causes the restriction?? Thanks for any help guys!

I bought some toomeys from "01bansheeke" and he got them to me in good time, at a good price and they are in almost brand new condition. Honest seller! Thanks Tate

Yeah, just figured that out. Still kind of a pain in the ass to mount, I've always had drag pipes so no experience with regular pipes. Now I need to find some hangers...

This is a little off subject for this post but is there a way to convert the front calipers from a "male/female" type connection to a banjo connection? Where would I have to get this stuff if so?

Does anyone have a pic of the mounting flange at the top of the pipe where it connects to the frame?? I am having a hell of a time getting the mounting flange anywhere near the mounting point on the frame!!! Let me know if this doesn't make sense.

That's so funny, I said the exact same thing to another guy on the forum when I was looking for Silver. I don't know why it's so damn hard to find but I finally found 3 cans at ACE Hardware. Do you have ACE Hardware in your area? The name of the color is "nickel shimmer".

Dude If I were you I would use Krylon Fusion. It's going to be the best thing for your plastics.

How much are you wanting? The only problem is I already have more sets of wheels than I know what to do with...

I have some newer style (narrow bolt pattern) hubs and I need the older (wide bolt pattern) hubs!!! I will trade or buy. thanks

I have some newer style (narrow bolt pattern) hubs and I need the older (wide bolt pattern) hubs!!! Rear hubs I will trade or buy. thanks

Not on the glacier itself, I'm talking about the other side of the valley from the glacier. If you know anything about that area it's on the east side of the town of 94. There are people riding quads and dirt bike up there all the time. I go offroading in my truck up there every summer. My wife grew up in that town, her and her 3 brothers used to snowboard and ski St. Mary's. As a matter of fact my father in law still owns land up there. There are even trail markers that mark the way over to blackhawk.

A couple freinds and I are planning to go to Moab this summer but yeah I've never been to glamis and want to BAD. If you are in CO and like trail riding I know some pretty good places. One is Daken Rd. down by Colo Sprngs and also St. Mary's Glacier is nice, you can ride over the top of the mountain and on the other side is Blackhawk.

I haven't done the axle yet but I've been cleaning up a lot of old dirty metal parts to my shee and plan to do the axle but I have been using a bench grinder with a wire wheel and it's been cleaning things up really friggin shinny and then if need be I have a buffing wheel on the other side and use polishing compound. Work amazingly fast!!

They are out of frames,not sure of the brand though.

Stock carbs, mild porting, polished the exhaust ports a little, dual K&N filters, reed spacers, that's all I can think of now. I'm going to be dialing it in pretty closely using plug chop and other techniques, I'm just wondering if I'll need to change anything right off the bat when I put the bike back together with the new pipes so it will start. I'm assuming it should start and that the difference between drags and toomeys is not too dramatic.