NitroTate

Never messed with TORS but as far as I know it's a rev limiter, not sure if it has the ability to stop it from firing or not... Yamaha04 is probably right though, your floats are hanging up somehow

I know it's frustrating but try to be patient, we've all had this happen to us... Mine is torn apart right now and I'm sure I might have some issue like this too when the time comes...LOL

Someone else a little more "carb-savvy" might want to chime in but it sounds like you need to take a look at your jets like someone else said and your screw setting as well as for any kind of blockage in the jets. Your carbs are definitely the problem it sounds like. Be very careful with starting fluid, it's not good for your bike.

Rules that out... just make sure both pings are showing up at the same time (then they are in sync). Is your choke tube in? Crossover tube in? All jets/needles in place? Fuel turned on? Are the plugs wet?

do you have stock carbs? if so there is a window on the Right side of each carb, twist your throttle slowly and watch in the windows for the little ping mark to show up, if it doesn't...you're in the wrong sides.

Make sure you are using a good meter, stators are very tricky and deceptive sometimes and some of the readings you need to take require a more sensitive meter than what you would get from a cheaper meter... It's possible there's noting wrong with your stator because of that.

Pardon my ignorance but what is "Terry Cable" is that a brand? If so where do I find it... (URL?)

It's not a close enough shot to really tell... it could be a regular opaque blue or it could be like what I just finished up with a metalic silver base coat and a translucent blue topcoat... not sure...

Yeah, I think i'll get it, might as well. I've been riding for years and I prefer the twist but I wouldn't mind having the option sometimes cause yeah there are those scary moments with a twist where you realize you could have really jacked yourself up... I was teaching my stepson to ride my banshee...(first mistake) and he started to get a little cocky and went off a really small jump but caught air and came down a little right-rear heavy, as soon as the right rear tire hit sand he tried to hold on too tight and gassed it. Needless to say it bucked him off and cartwheeled over his head (yes he had a helmet on). Didn't get hurt but bent my axle...

I know some of you hate Alba but they do have a combo product on the market... You can switch back and forth for different riding styles. Anyone have any experience with it? I was thinking of getting it, I have never had a thumb throttle, always twist but sometimes wouldn't mind thumb... Hmmmmm...... don't know...

post a pic

IF you haven't gotten it out yet... I popped my out a couple weeks ago very easily with a flat head screwdriver... just stick the screwdriver into the hole and underneath the seal then pry downward toward the case and it should pop right out.

That's part of your problem. Don't do pure coolant, water is typically cooler than coolant unless you are using something like engine ice and even then I think water is still better. The main purpose (correct me if I'm wrong) for coolant is for lubrication, protection, and to keep water from freezing. Also check to make sure you don't have any blockage anywhere like inside the radiator etc. What other mods do you have ie. cool head, inline cooler, etc.?

Great thanks a lot man I really appreciate the help! Those temps are lower than I had expected which is good so I might just go ahead and give this idea a shot... and thank you too Jbooker82 that's a good idea about shooting the high temp inside. I plan to shoot a translucent from the silencer all the way up to just infront of the chamber where it begins to curve downward and then fade it into the high temp black the rest of the way to the motor. I think it will look pretty SICK! And if it doesn't work I'll strip them back down to chrome, no harm done... Thanks all, I'll post pics when done.

No, not at all just make sure you reinstall them in the correct sides and be careful not to bend your needles. You don't need two people to sync them though, the windows are both viewable from one side of the banshee. You can just kneel down and look at both carbs at once and watch the windows as you push the throttle and those two little marks should show up in the windows.

Just an update for you guys... I did decide to film and photograph my entire teardown and rebuild... I've been filming it all the way through so far and I'm down to the bare bones of the motor right now. I'm working the motor first and then I'll move to the frame and the rest. I'm cleaning and powder coating a lot of stuff so I'm slowly working my way through it and documenting everything. Just need to get the cylinders ported then honed, weld my crank, then buy all the replacement parts etc. Then I'll start putting the motor back together.

I think they are pretty close to the same yeah. They are really easy. Yes you're looking at the right spot, and I know you said you see the level moving but do you see the "mark". there is a "ping" mark that kind of looks like if you were to start drilling in a peice of metal and then quit before you went through so kind of a divet. This little ping mark should only be visible at a certain point like half throttle or so (I forget exactly) the little ping mark should pass by the window in both carbs at the same time to be "in sync". Make sense?

Did you double check your carb slides like I mentioned above? It's sounding more and more like what I had dealt with...

Thanks man, just keep in mind if the pipes are shiny to move the temp gun around and kind of average it out if you cant get a good spot that is not so reflective. I am contemplating what type of PC I'm going to try on them and how it will hold up at different areas. I'm assuming the hottest part is probably going to be pretty much right at the ports and i will have to go with full blown high temp powder but wondering at what point along the pipes it tends to be cooler... Thanks!

You can see rebuild pics at http://dunereview.com/rebuild.htm

Here's one thing that happened to me a long time ago... Shee took a million frigging kicks to get started but would always restart real easy once warm... Also ran OK but seemed a bit under powered for some reason... After almost giving up I took her down to a shop and the mechanic diagnosed it without even looking at her... Asked me if my carb slides were in the correct sides... hmmm... I said, I didn't know they had "sides" He came out and pulled the tops off the carbs, swapped the slides, and started her on the first kick... shee ran like a raped ape after that Man did I feel like a DOOF! Do you know how to sync your carbs? If so look through the sync windows and hit the throttle slowly... watch for the ping marks in the windows. If you don't see the ping marks...DEEDEEDEE

True yeah, it's just sometimes more convenient to find and it's about $23. for a gallon... But yeah you will need to probably hit it a few times no matter what...

One of the best working most convenient strippers I've found is the NAKED KIND! LOL just kidding, go to Home Depot in the paint department and get the KleenStrip sprayable liquid. Make sure to use heavy duty gloves and definitely make sure to use it in warm conditions like at least around 70 deg. If you use it in cold conditions it won't do shit and you'll waste it. It is neutralized with water but use warm water and when you rinse it the fumes are pretty harsh too so be careful. Use a scraper or one of those gold or silver pot scrubbers from the grocery store. That should take it off for you real well.

I had a lightened flywheel and it actually sheered off in a perfect circle all the way around the center shaft. In other words it was like if you were to have taken a cutting torch and cut right around the shaft and pulled it out of the center. Weird... wish I had a pic of it

Yep, a long time ago I had a flywheel that really got banged up and had a small dent in the side. Found out that a chunk of the magnet got broken and it cause the polarity of the magnet to get screwed up or something so the flywheel wouldn't work right and had to buy a new one. At least that's how someone explained it to me...I could be wrong but it makes sense.