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lets see some pictures

holy shiznit man, that is such a killer price, thats going to be gone in a heartbeat Eric

ASV Levers will not fit a stock perch (if you get them to they wont be unbreakable thats for sure), get the whole thing, those things are badass.

It should run fine, i dont have a key at all, make sure the wires are connected properly (solder is where its at/ heat rap after). Sounds like a problem with your wiring...

Everyone has their own ways of doing things, me personally - i wouldnt have done it cause my Powdercoat, and cause i dont like more weak spots on my frame, (a banshee frame is already weak) not like thats a crucial weak spot... Ive never lost my seat bumpers, and mines a 96. Eric

Damn, i drool everytime i see that bike man, goodluck with sale. Bumpity Bump

a bottle jack is your best bet, go get one they are cheap, and you know youll use it more than once :thumbsup: Eric

What a deal, someone snatch this up

isn't that your banshee brad? Looks just like it man

They arnt ported, heres mine Heres My Stock Cylinders, No Porting

Red Permatex RTV Sealant... Have fun, i sure did

Heres a link to a basic adjustment and whatnot.. Not for banshee but all the same.. http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/floatlevel.html

When the float valve is completely closed thats where the fuel stops coming into the bowl. The float valve is connected the the float clip which is connected to the float itself. If you hang the carb verticle with the float hanging down, (be sure that the float pin doesnt fall out [the pivot point on the float]) this is how you will see how the float is adjusted. I like to use the molding mark (the line on the middle/side of the float) as my reference, and the flat part of the carb body where the bowl meets it. When the float valve is completely closed you will see the nipple part on it act like a spring, and push in. This tells you when the fuel stops flowing. Now to the part where you actually tell if its out of adjustment. The molding mark and the carb body line should be paralell to eachother on the Front/Back first of all (we all hope). When you push up on the float as its hanging, watch the float valve until it closes and stop, the floats molding mark should be paralell with the carb body, but this time on the sides (left/right) of the carb. If they are not, you need to bend the tang (bracket like metal piece) on the float, until it does. Man this is hard to explain, or for me it is, I hope this helped you a tad bit?? Oh, and heres a diagram (might not be your carb - but most as similar) that will help you with naming the parts I did. Hope someone else will chime in and tell me I said something wrong, ive never been good at explaining these types of things.. Goodluck http://www.sudco.com/Diagrams323728/exppwk.gif Eric

I definately agree, been there done that, those degree keys give you some shit for sure.. Unless your compression is over 150 from the shaved head id stay pump gas... Should send those cylinders in to get them ported while your at it, thats the only way to run a banshee hard Eric

If the two above dont fix anything, test the coil/stator and if they are fine id try another CDI. Man I hate intermittent problems, but they usually come up electrical (which blows). I think the heat wrap situation is just coincidence.. Keep us updated.. :thumbsup: EDIT: Also i see your having problems with your pingel, when it acts up are your lines still full atleast to the inlets on the carbs??? (hope they are see-through). Mine does the same but once you get riding they fill up, reserve always does the trick strangely, cause i think the reserve would act up over the ON position. I'm going to invest in a dual pingel for sure, always a good idea to keep those lines full... Eric

I have a blue and silver banshee, i would recommend white fullbores as well, thats what ive been keeping my eye on.. heres the pic.. Eric

thanks for clearing that up, i meant 34 i just got confused, ive neevr seen a 36 although...

Yes they should say right on the side, where the bowl and the body conenct, are they pwks? PJs? PWMs? etc. 35pwks= PWK70R 35pwksAIRSTRIKER= PWKS65 39pwks= PWK72R PJS have the Keihin letters vertical, not horizontal, those would be 35PJs... Hope this helps your sale... Eric

no, just measure the size of the boots, pretty sure they're interchangable... Eric

Those things look MEAN, Bump Eric

CELs are the right needle, your either too lean or too rich before it hits the powerband, have you tried to move the needle either way? i'd bet you need it to be on the middle (3rd) clip, used to have PJs and i got tired of them, too much of a hassle getting those things jetted, but after they are set, you dont have to screw with them. CEKs always gave me trouble, we are about the same elevation and ride the same places so i wouldnt recommend those. Let me know EDIT: I see your runnign 165s, that sounds rich for even 3000k, i ran 158s on mine with PJs. If your a tad bit rich now id just take 162s with you to dumont just in case, the needle should be able to make that 3000ft change no problem unless its too rich now. Eric

shit man someones gonna get a deal, too bad your so far away id snatch it up right quick, you could part that thing out for alot more than that!! Or have a new project bike laying around, just what i need Goodluck with sale, Bumpity Bump Bump Eric

CEL Needle (2nd clip) 155 mains 52 pilots I'm at 3009 feet and ive noticed if i go any lower than that the 2nd clip works better, i run middle 3rd (middle) although. I like oil :biggrin: Also im in very low humidity and a 80-110 degrees variance.. Eric

They are not needed for a nearly stock banshee, or fully modded to tell the truth, they just are another thing to have :biggrin: Dont we all like new things?? It does although make a hotter spark, and burns fuel better (works good for alt changes id suppose) Eric

Reed spacers really dont show a big change in numbers, but do help larger carbs fit over the clutch arm. Boost bottles are a waste of money and space, dont get one. Eric