fast500#12

i agree completely. my dmc's are holding me back at this point in time. shearers are on the way.

right now you are probably around 38 to 45 hp. after mods i would say 60 to 65ish.

provided all the parts are there. out of the frame all the way down to bare cases and back together and back in the frame 3 1/2 to 4 hours. that includes honning cylinders.

for my +6 swingarm i am running a 29 inch brake line. stock will work fine up to +4

if i had a 421 cub i wouldn't be running that gearing either. but after a lot of testing and playing around with gearing my bike runs the fastest at 13/46. i ran 55 mph on the hill, two weeks before with 14/41 i only ran 41 mph. tunning is not just tweeking carbs and advancing timing. atleast 90 hp vs. 65 to 70 hp makes a huge differance. bansheeseats's bike a 421 cub runs 68 on the same hill. BIG differance. like i said before power to gearing ratio,(more power taller gearing). i agree no replacement for displacement oh and i do launch in 2nd

i beg to differ i am running 13/46 on my bike. and last time i was out at sand mountain nv two weeks ago. i was clocked at 55 mph 3/4 of the way to the top in 5th gear. next time you are out go look at the gearing on the big boys bikes, there gearing in relation to there power. you can only go as fast as the gear you are in, me in fith with 13/46 is still faster than you in 3rd at 14/41. i say third because that is the highest gear my bike would pull on banshee hill when i was at 14/41 banshee speed calulator

i see you got 10 paddles. what size? i just picked up some 20x12x8 8 paddles. my were formerly cheng shin tire. makes you wander if you sent them and old bald set of tires if the would buff them and through some blades on them for less than it would cost to buy some allready made ones.

nothing smaller than 1000. a street bike motor has a crappy weight to power ratio especially under a litter.

collin.

in all accuality a low flow billet impellar is much better than a high flow. with a low flow the coolant spends more time in the radiator being cooled making your bike run cooler by more efficently transfering more heat. they are kinda hard to find but they are out there. my bike over heated a couple of times when i had the stock impellar in, and it melted all the blades off of it. replace it with billet just for a little insurance. 60 bucks now beats 600 or more later.

on an old detroit (2 stroke) diesel if you lug it to the point of almost dieing and push in the clutch and save it, some times it will start to run backwards.

if you get any thing less than a full drag port don't go any bigger than 33's. full drag on stock cylinders no bigger than 35's

i have riden a ktm 525 dirtbike and that shit was sweet, power, power,power. it is a shame that they put the 525 in an outlaw, that engine deserves a whole new bike, something light weight, say an all aluminum frame. keep the fox podium x shocks off of the predator, make it evenly balanced front to back, side to side. give it some good lines. make it look different from the yfz 450(the suzuki 450 looks allmost identical). put some good rubber on it and let that shit sell it's self. i would buy one (not an outlaw), that motor is amazing.

where are you getting shears for $455 shipped? let me know i am in the market for a set.

your pilot jets are good if it fires first kick. your needle and or main is off. also check your reeds. is the tors still conected?

my bike did the same thing when the cdi whent out. eliminate the easy stuff first stator, grounds, coil, ignition switch. also check ebay, i got a stock cdi for $80 worked like a charm. what ever you do don't get the procom engineering cdi it is trash and you will have the same problem. i went through 4 of them before they gave me my money back. i know that this sound retarded but, disconect your head lights and kick it if it starts then it is you cdi. there is something about the extra current draw even when the lights are off, the cdi doesn't produce enough juice to spark. i know they are different cuircuts on the stator and should have nothing to do with it, but i worked on my bike. i went through this many times on mine.

you guys are romoving the shock first right? mine didn't wanna come out until i took the shock off. i left the shock on first so the swing arm wouldn't just fall on the ground when the bolt came out. the wife dosen't ever wanna give me a hand with any thing in the garage.

my bike will wheelie and spin at the same time on pavement with the stock swinger on it. that gets a little hairy. it is hilarous to see the look on my buddies faces and hear them talk about it after they do it. " holy shit dude that thing if F-in crazy. how do you ride that thing all the time" they ride 4 strokes.

play with your jetting. check to see if you carb slides are in the right way(cut out to the back). is the choke tube between the carbs hooked up?

if you want an all around bike stick with your stock cylinders and get a good port job. tell the builder what you want to do with the bike ie. mx, trail , dune, recreational racer, ect. cubs are more of a drag thing, peaky top end power. when a head is cut they basicly move the combustion chamber up to compensate for the extra stroke instead of putting a spacer plate on the bottom of the cylinder to make up for it.

will do bro.

i ordered my new clutch and some gears to. me and some buddies are heading to the mountain next weekend. you should come out. is the pv back together?

any where from 38 to 45 hp. welcome to the obsession.

it's called sarcasm!

it's just a little burnt