fast500#12

yeah if you can get your bike to start.

thanks for the carbs and pipes fellas. very nice condition and great prices. these guys are men of thier word. every thing showed up safe and sound.

pm sent i want them

no one at all

beauler beauler!!! any one need some parts. make me an offer but don't insult me

open to offers

5.6 gallon IMS tank $160 stock arms great shape $120 silencers not sure what brand look like old toomeys or bill's $80 pro-flo with k&n and outerwear $110 2 stock unmolested heads $60 per stock lights $20 Fly bars $60 3 sets of stock carbs $75 per set 2 sets of stock reeds and cages $20 per set all prices + ride and 3% for paypal fees. not all parts are pictured.

payment for jugs>

pm sent

these are the ones that you had 95psi compression on are the not? pm sent. local buyer cash in hand.

pm sent

seriously don't waste your money. i ran the procomp cdi and the only way i could get my bike to start was to pull start it. i went through 6 cdis from procomp before i had them give me my money back, and they didn't even want the last one back (that sould tell you something). leave the cdi stock and advance your timing with a adjustable plate. that is all the aftermarket cdi's claim to do any way, because your rpms are limited by your pipes on a 2 stroke not your cdi.

looks like a douglas to me. ITP stamps there.

after 3/4 of a mile of whoops, mine tore my intake boots and my shit ended up like this. on rebuild the crossober tube went back on. one day i will fill it with black powder and get some fuse and see what a boost bottle is really good for.

aggresive mx or trail port, clutch kit from F.A.S.T., billet head of some sort with 19cc domes, billet water pump impellar, 28mm carbs, paul turnner mid pipes. that should get you a bad ass trail machine.

yellow are from the tors control box, the green and black are from the park brake switch (part of the tors).

the resistor on the plug wire caps do go bad. check those. and also the is a ground point back where the vlotage regulator mounts the you will need bare metal on also. cdi rarely go bad.

i had a similar thing happen on mine a while back the shift adjuster cam screw broke. its all the same tear down so have fun.

la sleeves sells big bore kits.

make sure your carb slides are in the right direction. ( cut out tward the rear ) timing has nothing to do with when the engine gets fuel, you have good sparks move on to the other two things needed for an engine to fire. AIR, FUEL.

i was looking at the second pic again and noticed the piston skirt on the exhaust side is broken. it may have broken after the rod snapped, but it could have broken and caused the rod to snap. are the any chunks out of, or dings in the exhaust port on that cylinder.

yeah you were lean. the lean state makes the top of the piston hot and when the fuel mixture comes in the cylinder it causes lots of carbon on the top ofthe piston. the opposite is true if you are rich you get piston wash, the fuel washes the carbon off the top of the piston. perfect jetting will leave a 1/2 inch diameter chocolate brown light carbon circle right below the spark plug hole.

your oil to gas ratio will effect jetting but you can run at 50 to 1 with no problems as long as your premix oil can support it. i know some people that run 100 to 1. i personaly have run 45 to 1 for years with no problems, it all depends on the oil you use. you are deffinatley lean on you jetting. with mild porting the same pipes as you and k&n filters i was running 300 main jets and 27.5 pilots at 4500ft of elevation. if you can post some pics of your pistons and rods i could probably give you a better idea of what really happened. throwing a rod usually isn't caused by a lean condition, there was more than likely some other issue that caused that. take pictures of the tops sides and bottom of the piston dome, if it got hot there will be carbon under the piston above the wrist pin. and of corse the rods an crank.

22x11x8 10 paddle double buff haulers, or 8 paddle extremes on douglas .125 wheels. i don't like the ultra lites (tripple buffs) because the are so thin if you run over rocks or sticks occasionaly they are toast. and they will lose air just sitting in the garage if you ran some thing over or not.

nope probably a shift fork.